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@ Aael921, Yes ours is a condo and a very cooperative building management team. Of course the understanding was that it would be "non-noisy" work on Saturdays but still a lot could be done (wall prep, pre-painting, painting, tiling, installing fixtures/accessories, closets etc). We had notified our immediate neighbors on the same floor, one floor above and below of the same, either personally or slipping a flyer under their door. Yes we were renting in the meantime so time was of the essence.
I posted above re 3 bed/2 bath gut reno. We're now past six months and counting (though, I THINK, just about finished). What amazes me most about the original post upon re-reading it is that svroad was able to have word done on Saturdays. Between the complaining neighbors and the board, this would never fly in my building. Perhaps it's a condo/coop thing, but good for you. That saves $ for everyone involved, particularly if you are renting in the meantime.
The key is to research before buying a property. Know as much information and all the steps involved. Do not just listen to what you hear but seek advice from friends and family who may have gone through the same process. The savings you will get would mean a difference and you will have much more control over the sale.
@BonacStyle: I am not sure I understand your question.
Actually it sounds like this person did a lot of research (including on this site). There are certain things that you don't learn unless you have first hand experience with something. Everyone knows that things not included in the original proposal will cost money, but it takes experience to know how important it is to plan every single outlet and light fixture unless you want to pay to do it later. It seems like a lot of comments on this thread are about the OP's rating of his GC as 3/5. The GC seems like he did a good job. But when you finish a project, pay $100K or more, and they are cutting a hole in your completed bathroom tile to make a vent.... how can you not feel frustrated? When your project is completed and the GC does not replace the fire alarms in your apartment, after you have paid a huge sum of money, it's natural to feel frustrated and maybe even disrespected. Of course you want the walls and basic plumbing to be done correctly, but after a huge renovation (especially one where the owner has basically taken on a part time job of planning things), it is not ideal if the GC lacks attention to detail and is fixing completed parts of the project such as the tile. Just my thoughts
Primer knows about closets.
As he has posted on streeteasy before: his wife is a (very well-known and respected) wardrobe stylist. His apartment is beautiful and the closets are magnificent.
There are always options. You could have someone build new closets or you can hire a company to put in a custom closet
Hi there - I am in the process of getting my original closet taken out of my apartment and a newer closet built.
I have had quotes from "non" custom closet companies (california and a competitor).
Since these companies only re-do the insides and don't offer anything really truly custom to fit with my over 9 feet ceilings and some electrical re-work that will need to happen, I wanted to see if there were other options, such as creating a new closet with wood/support and closet systems from scratch.
I have been told by several people its not "worth" it to re-do the outsides of my closets, but I just wanted more options.
California closets came in really reasonable, but again, that's because they would only be re-doing the inside of the closet.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
You may run into some problems with venting and being far enough away from operable windows/doors.
It is not possible to suggest anything without having a look at it, so please can you post some photos of it as then only I can suggest on it.
My current apartment used to have two separate kitchens. Only one remains but in the former kitchen there is a capped gas line coming our from the riser. How problematic or simple is it to utilize this gas line for a gas heat stove or gas fireplace?
Coop approval and permits should not be a problem since there are other fireplaces in the building and the coop is very relaxed. Venting seems like in would be simple as well since there are exterior walls onto our patio adjacent this gas line.
Thanks huntersburg. Any contractors or architects out there who might have a sense of the all in cost?
c0c0 might know, he had this work done on his outhouse upstate.
Hi, does anyone know a ballpark figure to apply coffered ceilings (fairly decorative) on newly sheet rocked ceilings -- about 450-500 sq ft?
I have to agree with NYCMatt about the durability of Formica. My new apartment has a kitchen not touched since 1952 (except for new appliances in 1991). The Formica countertops on the metal cabinets are in perfect condition although they're as ugly as ... Maybe Formica from the 1950s was made better than the newer versions. Can't wait to do the kitchen remodel.
Is there any one who has done [url=http://washingtonianhomesva.com/]Ceramic Tiles Fairfax VA[/url] in there kitchen?I have to remodel my home,can anyone give me idea?
Anybody have any experience with glass composite? I think a brand like glassos. Also what is the cost compared to quartz composite? thanks
ph: I have a huge container of 511. Entertained thoughts of doing it myself (got it at HD). Too lazy, and also I had thoughts of buffing the surface before.
Actually just checked where to buy more, as I am running out of the product - seems Home Depot carries it.
Typo: "flaming" s/b "flaking".
Why not scrap (& scrape) the paint altogether - & just have the natural iron exposed?
It would (in my opinion) add an industrial-type look, in a finish that would go with virtually any decorating scheme - AND no more flaming paint chips to contend with.
The safest option, of course, would be to enclose them, as I can personally attest.
Many, many moons ago, as a child in our prewar Crown Heights apartment, I had to use the bathroom really badly.
My father was inside with the door locked, preparing to take a shower.
I kept banging & yelling for him to open the door, which he finally did, buck naked except for a shower cap. Truly a sight to behold.
I pushed my way inside, forcing him to back up - which he did - right into the silver painted riser.
He gave a loud scream as his butt made contact, & I can almost remember hearing a sizzle as it did so.
What sticks in my mind most, however, is the strange odor I smelled immediately, which reminded me of burnt peaches (or what I thought burnt peaches would smell like).
Obviously he DID need to get into that shower - & quickly!
I am dealing with the same problem again this year.
Any news ways to cover up heat pipes? Tired of having them re-painted.
I have one expoed heat pipe in the powder room and my painter says he will use oil based primer and paint. Hopefully that will prevent peeling.
what material is the rope?
(sorry for the delay)
The Broan has a knob to control the fan speed. At full blast, its noisy, but I wouldn't call it deafening. I tend to run it at about 50% speed and its fine in terms of noise, and effective at capturing cooking vapors. If I am searing a steak or something else with lots of smoke, I run it full blast for 5 mins and put up with the noise.
Overall, it does as good a job as you could expect from an non-venting range. It's main job is to protect the cabinet above from extreme heat and cooking vapors, especially vaporized oil/fat - it has a drip tray and removable baffles (can go in the dishwasher). The recirc kit has a charcoal filter, but I'm not sure these are ever really effective.
One thing to note: our contractor installed it wrong. There was virtually no suction. A call to Broan helped me discover that there is a knock-out that wasn't, erm, knocked-out.
stuy--thanks for the hood rec. We have actually been considering doing away with a microwave altogether (we only use it to make the occasional popcorn bag or reheat a cup of coffee...) and putting a non-venting hood above the range instead. We heard good things about Broan and also Zephyr. Is your Broan terribly loud (that's the one complaint I've heard about them)?
If you really like the Wolf, talk to them again (or call Wolf). There is nothing in the Wolf installation specs that seems to require an external vent. http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/gasrangeinstall.pdf
In fact, note that they give instructions that if there is no hood whatsoever, thats fine as long as there is 42" clearance. Put a hood there (venting or not) and you need 30" clearance.
I have a Bluestar range with more BTUs than your Wolf, and no window in my tiny kitchen. I have a non-venting range-hood (I wouldn't go with an undercabinet microwave). This is the hood I have is this one (installed with the recirc kit - you have to pay a bit extra for that). http://www.broan.com/products/product/852837a8-77a9-4b00-9598-9bf0539703d6
Recently installed the 30" GE cafe. Went with the warming drawer (which will work as a double oven) rather than the double oven and the cafe convection microwave. The decision came down to realizing that we'd use the second oven for occasional use rather than most days. I preferred having the large oven on top. I've used the bottom drawer as an oven once and as a warming drawer a number of times. So far have really liked it- both for cooking (which I do daily) and looks. One thing to consider is that this is not a slide in range -- so there is a small gap between the stove and the counter -- which I did not consider before I bought it. My only disappointment has been the broiler ( but even that works well enough)
I considered the bertazzoni but didn't like how small the oven was and that it does not self clean.
Branmstar: The window is key. I have a windowless kitchen. I had an architect, contractor, and kitchen designer come in to look at the kitchen. They all vetoed the Wolf.
Everyone -- thanks again for all the great recommendations!
Olampia is expensive but the lighting is custom made and they will keep sending it back until it is perfect.
Gracious home will sometimes sell you the floor sample ( I saved 25%)
I order hudson valley lighting (Ferguson ) it was a nightmare the lighting was soldered on crooked and they said it was my fault. It took months for me to convince them I didn't solder it on.
If you'd consider online purchases I like Rejuvenation and Schoolhouse Electric. I believe Schoolhouse also has a store in NYC...
Remains Lighting has some nice stuff (higher end so be prepared to open the wallet!)
I also really like Foundry on E 58th street. Again, a bit pricier but really gorgeous stuff.
If you are considering vintage pieces Olde Good Things is worth a look.
is Filaments on West 13th Street still around? They used to be a great place to go to for mid-Century modern.
Greene Street between Houston and Grand is full of lighting designers, from Flos on the north to Foscarini on the south.
If you end up going the mid/high-end route, I'd strongly suggest bringing on a lighting designer... whatever fee they charge will be more than offset by the discounts they can get.
Not a showroom, but I found http://www.ylighting.com/ to be incredibly helpful for idea generation. Good luck.
Thank you all.
Ricardo - I'm not a new member and the site has been incredibly valuable to me as I completed my renovation. However as others noted, soundproofing is a complicated topic and I don't see as much about the issues of the acoustical dampening sheets.
reallynow - thanks, I've done research and am still a little confused. Contractor wants to use quietrock glue but I will ask about green glue. There are also other things such as staggared drywall sheet, filling gaps etc.
jelji - interesting EPA piece. I'm merely hoping to hear less loud voices (if any at all), in other words low frequency irregular sounds.
Thanks again all.
There is an old publication from the EPA that I have used for many, many years. See:
This is a very complicated topic and this is one of the most comprehensive explanations for a lay person. There are some newer materials since this was published, but I passed this on to people with noise complaints when I was on a condo board. It helped solve their problems.
You really have to determine the type of noise and decibel range before you proceed with any work. Different noises require different materials, all explained in the book.
It's a very complicated topic. The most basic treatment would be green glue plus quiet rock or another layer of regular sheet rock , but green glue is the key . However, it depends on the type and volume of noise -- minor voices would be attenuated by modest steps as just described; more serious sounds would require an air gap to be created . Do some research.
As a real estate agent, i also happen to produce and compose music on the side! What you need is owens corning sound proof insulation. Ownes corning is the best fiberglass material you'll find. The low frequencies are the ones that you should worry about the most (foot steps, banging, talking), since its the low frequencies that travel easier through walls. Ownes corning will block/reflect these.
Hope this helps!
That does not sound like an attractive look. Maybe I lack vision.
Other than very quickly cooked meals at reasonably low temperatures I'd say resign yourself to take-out, etc.
GE Profile makes one. I installed it over the range and under a cabinet 2 years ago and it's great.
Put in a little hood, then a small microwave on top of the hood. I could not find a 24" over the range MW either.
Wow, this thread is 6 years old, but here's hoping someone has new information.
Am gutting and renovating a new kitchen. Have been searching and searching and so far can't find any 24" over the range microwaves to go over a 24" Bertazzoni. Everything seems to be 29 - 30." Looks like a lot of the 24" ones have been discontinued.
There are BUILT IN-s that are 24", but aren't those inappropriate for over the range because the cabinet wouldn't be insulated and wiring would be a fire hazard?
I've searched AJ Madison,Amazon, Consumer Reports and Googled and Googled, but no luck. A few people suggested and OTR for a RV vehicle. But the only ones I see are 29".
Any leads would be most appreciated. Thanks.
The guard needs to be approved by the city: http://www.nyc.gov/html/doh/downloads/pdf/win/window-guard-board-list.pdf
I want to open my windows all the way and would like to have horizontal bars that are custom fit. I do not want the expandable version, which takes up a lot of your view. Any ideas who would do this?
I think placing it inside the channel will disrupt the function of the balancer that is within the channel. Plus it has to stick out from the channel in order to block the sash. That would essentially be the same as the L-shaped bracket.
A curved piece could be installed just outside the channel with a screw.
I thought of that. Does anyone know of an aluminum shop who can make a small curved piece of aluminum? I will need 40 of them for all the windows.
Thank you very much for your kind words. Please email me so I know which client you are. It is much appreciated
I'm in the middle of 960 sq. ft postwar renovation with Prime Renovation. Couldn't be happier with them! I initially found them online; liked their design sense (from their website); liked Jeff's fiscal responsibility. Communication is overall excellent...good, responsive team...and so far I feel like I've gotten 98% of what I wanted.
Can't wait to see the finished product!
Truesdell do you have any photos of the work Alphacraft did? what was the total budget for the job?
We just finished a gut renovation of a 3400 sf triplex and they were phenomenal. Superb work quality. Creative solutions. A pleasure to work with.
Impossible to price. How long is the run? What are the walls made out of?
Email me at primerenovations.mac.com for electricians info
I am out of the country so I may not respond immediately.
What would be the approximate cost of running a dedicated outlet for an air conditioner or an audio system? We have two 15 amps coming into the box from the building and last summer we had a number of instances where using the AC bypassed the apt's circuit breaker and tripped the building's box in the basement. Any recommendations for a licensed/insured electrician in Manhattan? Thank you.
Unless your brownstone is a wood-framed house, proceed with caution in insulating solid masonry walls: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/insulating-old-brick-buildings
What's worse than a girl with cat? A guy with a cat? PATHETIC.....................
what foam insulation gives you is an air seal. the R-value is only 7 per inch with closed cell foam, but the air seal is what stops noise and temperature intrusion.
the other option could be poly-iso board with foam around the edges if you want to save. Poly iso is basically sheets of pre-formed foam that can be cut and molded. cheaper, more work.
we did pink batts on an exterior wall......wish we did spray foam. The only issue is its such a small job....probably wouldn't have been worth the setup/tear down....
You go, fieldschester!!!!!
We installed Lumber Liquidators "Brazillian Redwood" 3" - love it
If you want to save some money I have a spare 100 square foot roll of the QuietWalk underlay that you can have for $20
I agree. I would first look to see if you can refinish the existing hardwood floors. Try sedona red, red chestnut, mesquite red. If you like them really glossy, do a glossy or semi gloss finish. If you are doing a water based poly everything comes out a bit less glossy so see if it's possible to use oil based poly. Or if you use water based move up a notch on the glossy factor...if that's what you like.
(Bear in mind that satin is a bit more popular and shows scratches/dents less).
Forgot to add that some of the well know flooring places with store fronts will not put down subflooring if required. They want you to hire a separate contractor. Niky Wood Floors does the subflooring and leveling work.
I used the following contractor: firstname.lastname@example.org, 347-531-8812
They also were very professional, explained the process, and went over all the options for refinishing and replacing the floors. I had them refinish some of the floors with Bona Traffic and one room with prefinished oak planking.
Try Carlos Wood Floors, contact him at email@example.com or 646-418-0925. They come to you location and explain the process...very professional crew.
Azematis, this is total subjective but I agree, unsulation of the cavity between the joists seems to help with noise coming from below up....and the underlay helps with the noise from above going down.
My advice....do both :)
BTW I've got some spare underlay left over for $20 if you want to save some cash.
I should add that they carted away the old flooring as part of the price.
delly123: The contractor picked Nicky Wood Floors. He had used them in his own home.
They also put extended the flooring into the closets, really tricky. One of the closets was squeezed in on a diagonal across two pillars.
I picked a top grade, wide plank, prefinished oak. They put down soundproofing and plywood and had to level the floor a bit.
It all depends on the the contractor to whom you are hiring as they all differ and when I installed a solid oak plank floor last year it cost me around did $5,300, so just have a survey and then go with the one which provide best service.
I need one person that can be responsible for the rubber soundproof material, the plywood floor and installing the hardwood floor that needs to be glued down. No nails. The oak flooring that I see is about 3.70 a sq ft. Jelj13 who did you use? Primer05 do you do soundproofing?
We installed new plywood subfloor then the QuietWalk underlay from Lumber Liquidators then new solid floorboards installed on top of this. Fantastic difference.
Cant hear a thing from the apartment below us (they also don't hear anything from our apartment apart from when someone drops something directly on the floor).
Well worth spending the extra money on new subfloor/underlay/boards, I don't know why people in NY continue to complain about neighbors when for just a few thousand dollars the noise problems can be solved for good.
BTW if you want to save some money I have a entire 100 square feet unused roll of the underlay here for someone who doesnt mind making the effort to pick it up from Brooklyn heights - http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/mat/4343881512.html
I just had a new hard wood floor installed with soundproofing as per building regulations. They used what Primer05 recommended.
We have used this:
Hello - does anyone have any recommendations for soundproofing material that would provide stc / iic ratings of 65+? It would be installed under solid hard wood (using the nail method). Thanks!
Stickley-Audi IS Stickley. Same company. Same materials. Same craftsmanship.
... it's like Stickley-Audi versus genuine Stickley.
oops this is the url :)
If you are after a 36" x 80" wood/glass 15 lite French door I just listed a surplus door we didn't need on craigslist for 75% of what we paid from Dykes Lumber a few weeks ago
(long story basically we purchased 4 but changed our mind on one of them and installed a 36x98 door in the stairwell instead).
I can tell the difference by both sight and touch.
Pulsar is a new color similar to calacatta marble, gray streaks with highlights of various shades of beige (pale to slight rust color). See: http://www.silestoneusa.com/colors/color/pulsar/
Since the kitchen is small, I thought I might put in white cabinets with a matching Silestone counter and floor, possibly the Pulsar color. I could then put some color in the backsplash that blends with the beige/rust color in the Silestone.
alanhart: I've had the same problem with porcelain floors being hard on my back. I put a small, cushiony mat where I tend to stand the longest. Sorry, no sparkle in the color I'm looking at.
I have a bit of Silestone in my apt... kitchen counters, bathroom vanity, and bathroom floor. I'm not familiar with Pulsar, but all of mine has the mirror flecks in it, so it reflects light. I think it looks great (and, everyone that has seen it seems to agree, unless they are lying), and it wears well. Ours is about 7 years old, and the floor shows no signs of wear. It's not slippery, either.
I would definitely buy Silestone again.
I put 12x12 Silestone floors in my galley kitchen. I had them butted, ungrouted. They're magnificent, and very sparkly! To quote Dolly Parton, "it takes a lot of money to look this cheap".
The only downside is that it's hard on your back if you stand on it for prolonged stretches of time. You can wear those hideous rubber clogs with all the holes on top to mitigate that. Also, be advised that there's a slight bevel to them.
I am renovating my small, galley kitchen. I think I want to install a quartz countertop, possibly Silestone's new Pulsar. I noticed that Silestone can be ordered in 12 x 12 , 16 x 16, and 12 x 24 sizes to be used as flooring. What are the drawbacks? Is it slippery?
Hi KyleWest, thank you for all your insights- especially regarding coops in GW. I have an offer out on an pre war apartment in the village and was hoping I could get your advice, offline, about the building and some renovations I would need to do. if you are up for chatting, you can contact me on SW72AG@gmail.com. I'd truly appreciate your help :) Many thanks in advance, S
No. Just good at renovations. And estimates. A frequent poster on SE is Primer who is a contractor. His numbers and job assessments and mine typically mirror one another. If you post a renovation question, he is likely to respond.
kylewest, are you a contractor?
The have "restrooms" in San Fran apts? Like a gas station?