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Hi, does anyone know a ballpark figure to apply coffered ceilings (fairly decorative) on newly sheet rocked ceilings -- about 450-500 sq ft?
(sorry for the delay)
The Broan has a knob to control the fan speed. At full blast, its noisy, but I wouldn't call it deafening. I tend to run it at about 50% speed and its fine in terms of noise, and effective at capturing cooking vapors. If I am searing a steak or something else with lots of smoke, I run it full blast for 5 mins and put up with the noise.
Overall, it does as good a job as you could expect from an non-venting range. It's main job is to protect the cabinet above from extreme heat and cooking vapors, especially vaporized oil/fat - it has a drip tray and removable baffles (can go in the dishwasher). The recirc kit has a charcoal filter, but I'm not sure these are ever really effective.
One thing to note: our contractor installed it wrong. There was virtually no suction. A call to Broan helped me discover that there is a knock-out that wasn't, erm, knocked-out.
stuy--thanks for the hood rec. We have actually been considering doing away with a microwave altogether (we only use it to make the occasional popcorn bag or reheat a cup of coffee...) and putting a non-venting hood above the range instead. We heard good things about Broan and also Zephyr. Is your Broan terribly loud (that's the one complaint I've heard about them)?
If you really like the Wolf, talk to them again (or call Wolf). There is nothing in the Wolf installation specs that seems to require an external vent. http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/gasrangeinstall.pdf
In fact, note that they give instructions that if there is no hood whatsoever, thats fine as long as there is 42" clearance. Put a hood there (venting or not) and you need 30" clearance.
I have a Bluestar range with more BTUs than your Wolf, and no window in my tiny kitchen. I have a non-venting range-hood (I wouldn't go with an undercabinet microwave). This is the hood I have is this one (installed with the recirc kit - you have to pay a bit extra for that). http://www.broan.com/products/product/852837a8-77a9-4b00-9598-9bf0539703d6
Recently installed the 30" GE cafe. Went with the warming drawer (which will work as a double oven) rather than the double oven and the cafe convection microwave. The decision came down to realizing that we'd use the second oven for occasional use rather than most days. I preferred having the large oven on top. I've used the bottom drawer as an oven once and as a warming drawer a number of times. So far have really liked it- both for cooking (which I do daily) and looks. One thing to consider is that this is not a slide in range -- so there is a small gap between the stove and the counter -- which I did not consider before I bought it. My only disappointment has been the broiler ( but even that works well enough)
I considered the bertazzoni but didn't like how small the oven was and that it does not self clean.
Branmstar: The window is key. I have a windowless kitchen. I had an architect, contractor, and kitchen designer come in to look at the kitchen. They all vetoed the Wolf.
It is not possible to suggest anything without having a look at it, so please can you post some photos of it as then only I can suggest on it.
My current apartment used to have two separate kitchens. Only one remains but in the former kitchen there is a capped gas line coming our from the riser. How problematic or simple is it to utilize this gas line for a gas heat stove or gas fireplace?
Coop approval and permits should not be a problem since there are other fireplaces in the building and the coop is very relaxed. Venting seems like in would be simple as well since there are exterior walls onto our patio adjacent this gas line.
Everyone -- thanks again for all the great recommendations!
Olampia is expensive but the lighting is custom made and they will keep sending it back until it is perfect.
Gracious home will sometimes sell you the floor sample ( I saved 25%)
I order hudson valley lighting (Ferguson ) it was a nightmare the lighting was soldered on crooked and they said it was my fault. It took months for me to convince them I didn't solder it on.
If you'd consider online purchases I like Rejuvenation and Schoolhouse Electric. I believe Schoolhouse also has a store in NYC...
Remains Lighting has some nice stuff (higher end so be prepared to open the wallet!)
I also really like Foundry on E 58th street. Again, a bit pricier but really gorgeous stuff.
If you are considering vintage pieces Olde Good Things is worth a look.
is Filaments on West 13th Street still around? They used to be a great place to go to for mid-Century modern.
Greene Street between Houston and Grand is full of lighting designers, from Flos on the north to Foscarini on the south.
If you end up going the mid/high-end route, I'd strongly suggest bringing on a lighting designer... whatever fee they charge will be more than offset by the discounts they can get.
Not a showroom, but I found http://www.ylighting.com/ to be incredibly helpful for idea generation. Good luck.
@BonacStyle: I am not sure I understand your question.
Actually it sounds like this person did a lot of research (including on this site). There are certain things that you don't learn unless you have first hand experience with something. Everyone knows that things not included in the original proposal will cost money, but it takes experience to know how important it is to plan every single outlet and light fixture unless you want to pay to do it later. It seems like a lot of comments on this thread are about the OP's rating of his GC as 3/5. The GC seems like he did a good job. But when you finish a project, pay $100K or more, and they are cutting a hole in your completed bathroom tile to make a vent.... how can you not feel frustrated? When your project is completed and the GC does not replace the fire alarms in your apartment, after you have paid a huge sum of money, it's natural to feel frustrated and maybe even disrespected. Of course you want the walls and basic plumbing to be done correctly, but after a huge renovation (especially one where the owner has basically taken on a part time job of planning things), it is not ideal if the GC lacks attention to detail and is fixing completed parts of the project such as the tile. Just my thoughts
SVROAD. Sounds like you had done some homework prior to renovating. Did the GC value engineer his bid ?
Great details and info. Thank you for sharing! However, I do agree that the GC may have deserved a little higher rating than a 3 of 5.
we got our tiles from Nemo Tiles in NYC,
Kitchen appliances from Paul's Appliances in NJ http://www.paulshomeappliances.com/
Bathroom fixtures and hardware was bought online vendors such as from build.com etc
Thank you all.
Ricardo - I'm not a new member and the site has been incredibly valuable to me as I completed my renovation. However as others noted, soundproofing is a complicated topic and I don't see as much about the issues of the acoustical dampening sheets.
reallynow - thanks, I've done research and am still a little confused. Contractor wants to use quietrock glue but I will ask about green glue. There are also other things such as staggared drywall sheet, filling gaps etc.
jelji - interesting EPA piece. I'm merely hoping to hear less loud voices (if any at all), in other words low frequency irregular sounds.
Thanks again all.
There is an old publication from the EPA that I have used for many, many years. See:
This is a very complicated topic and this is one of the most comprehensive explanations for a lay person. There are some newer materials since this was published, but I passed this on to people with noise complaints when I was on a condo board. It helped solve their problems.
You really have to determine the type of noise and decibel range before you proceed with any work. Different noises require different materials, all explained in the book.
It's a very complicated topic. The most basic treatment would be green glue plus quiet rock or another layer of regular sheet rock , but green glue is the key . However, it depends on the type and volume of noise -- minor voices would be attenuated by modest steps as just described; more serious sounds would require an air gap to be created . Do some research.
As a real estate agent, i also happen to produce and compose music on the side! What you need is owens corning sound proof insulation. Ownes corning is the best fiberglass material you'll find. The low frequencies are the ones that you should worry about the most (foot steps, banging, talking), since its the low frequencies that travel easier through walls. Ownes corning will block/reflect these.
Hope this helps!
That does not sound like an attractive look. Maybe I lack vision.
Other than very quickly cooked meals at reasonably low temperatures I'd say resign yourself to take-out, etc.
GE Profile makes one. I installed it over the range and under a cabinet 2 years ago and it's great.
Put in a little hood, then a small microwave on top of the hood. I could not find a 24" over the range MW either.
Wow, this thread is 6 years old, but here's hoping someone has new information.
Am gutting and renovating a new kitchen. Have been searching and searching and so far can't find any 24" over the range microwaves to go over a 24" Bertazzoni. Everything seems to be 29 - 30." Looks like a lot of the 24" ones have been discontinued.
There are BUILT IN-s that are 24", but aren't those inappropriate for over the range because the cabinet wouldn't be insulated and wiring would be a fire hazard?
I've searched AJ Madison,Amazon, Consumer Reports and Googled and Googled, but no luck. A few people suggested and OTR for a RV vehicle. But the only ones I see are 29".
Any leads would be most appreciated. Thanks.
The guard needs to be approved by the city: http://www.nyc.gov/html/doh/downloads/pdf/win/window-guard-board-list.pdf
I want to open my windows all the way and would like to have horizontal bars that are custom fit. I do not want the expandable version, which takes up a lot of your view. Any ideas who would do this?
I think placing it inside the channel will disrupt the function of the balancer that is within the channel. Plus it has to stick out from the channel in order to block the sash. That would essentially be the same as the L-shaped bracket.
A curved piece could be installed just outside the channel with a screw.
I thought of that. Does anyone know of an aluminum shop who can make a small curved piece of aluminum? I will need 40 of them for all the windows.
Thank you very much for your kind words. Please email me so I know which client you are. It is much appreciated
I'm in the middle of 960 sq. ft postwar renovation with Prime Renovation. Couldn't be happier with them! I initially found them online; liked their design sense (from their website); liked Jeff's fiscal responsibility. Communication is overall excellent...good, responsive team...and so far I feel like I've gotten 98% of what I wanted.
Can't wait to see the finished product!
Truesdell do you have any photos of the work Alphacraft did? what was the total budget for the job?
We just finished a gut renovation of a 3400 sf triplex and they were phenomenal. Superb work quality. Creative solutions. A pleasure to work with.
Impossible to price. How long is the run? What are the walls made out of?
Email me at primerenovations.mac.com for electricians info
I am out of the country so I may not respond immediately.
What would be the approximate cost of running a dedicated outlet for an air conditioner or an audio system? We have two 15 amps coming into the box from the building and last summer we had a number of instances where using the AC bypassed the apt's circuit breaker and tripped the building's box in the basement. Any recommendations for a licensed/insured electrician in Manhattan? Thank you.
Unless your brownstone is a wood-framed house, proceed with caution in insulating solid masonry walls: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/insulating-old-brick-buildings
What's worse than a girl with cat? A guy with a cat? PATHETIC.....................
what foam insulation gives you is an air seal. the R-value is only 7 per inch with closed cell foam, but the air seal is what stops noise and temperature intrusion.
the other option could be poly-iso board with foam around the edges if you want to save. Poly iso is basically sheets of pre-formed foam that can be cut and molded. cheaper, more work.
we did pink batts on an exterior wall......wish we did spray foam. The only issue is its such a small job....probably wouldn't have been worth the setup/tear down....
You go, fieldschester!!!!!
We installed Lumber Liquidators "Brazillian Redwood" 3" - love it
If you want to save some money I have a spare 100 square foot roll of the QuietWalk underlay that you can have for $20
I agree. I would first look to see if you can refinish the existing hardwood floors. Try sedona red, red chestnut, mesquite red. If you like them really glossy, do a glossy or semi gloss finish. If you are doing a water based poly everything comes out a bit less glossy so see if it's possible to use oil based poly. Or if you use water based move up a notch on the glossy factor...if that's what you like.
(Bear in mind that satin is a bit more popular and shows scratches/dents less).
Forgot to add that some of the well know flooring places with store fronts will not put down subflooring if required. They want you to hire a separate contractor. Niky Wood Floors does the subflooring and leveling work.
I used the following contractor: firstname.lastname@example.org, 347-531-8812
They also were very professional, explained the process, and went over all the options for refinishing and replacing the floors. I had them refinish some of the floors with Bona Traffic and one room with prefinished oak planking.
Try Carlos Wood Floors, contact him at email@example.com or 646-418-0925. They come to you location and explain the process...very professional crew.
Azematis, this is total subjective but I agree, unsulation of the cavity between the joists seems to help with noise coming from below up....and the underlay helps with the noise from above going down.
My advice....do both :)
BTW I've got some spare underlay left over for $20 if you want to save some cash.
I should add that they carted away the old flooring as part of the price.
delly123: The contractor picked Nicky Wood Floors. He had used them in his own home.
They also put extended the flooring into the closets, really tricky. One of the closets was squeezed in on a diagonal across two pillars.
I picked a top grade, wide plank, prefinished oak. They put down soundproofing and plywood and had to level the floor a bit.
It all depends on the the contractor to whom you are hiring as they all differ and when I installed a solid oak plank floor last year it cost me around did $5,300, so just have a survey and then go with the one which provide best service.
I need one person that can be responsible for the rubber soundproof material, the plywood floor and installing the hardwood floor that needs to be glued down. No nails. The oak flooring that I see is about 3.70 a sq ft. Jelj13 who did you use? Primer05 do you do soundproofing?
We installed new plywood subfloor then the QuietWalk underlay from Lumber Liquidators then new solid floorboards installed on top of this. Fantastic difference.
Cant hear a thing from the apartment below us (they also don't hear anything from our apartment apart from when someone drops something directly on the floor).
Well worth spending the extra money on new subfloor/underlay/boards, I don't know why people in NY continue to complain about neighbors when for just a few thousand dollars the noise problems can be solved for good.
BTW if you want to save some money I have a entire 100 square feet unused roll of the underlay here for someone who doesnt mind making the effort to pick it up from Brooklyn heights - http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/mat/4343881512.html
I just had a new hard wood floor installed with soundproofing as per building regulations. They used what Primer05 recommended.
We have used this:
Hello - does anyone have any recommendations for soundproofing material that would provide stc / iic ratings of 65+? It would be installed under solid hard wood (using the nail method). Thanks!
Stickley-Audi IS Stickley. Same company. Same materials. Same craftsmanship.
... it's like Stickley-Audi versus genuine Stickley.
oops this is the url :)
If you are after a 36" x 80" wood/glass 15 lite French door I just listed a surplus door we didn't need on craigslist for 75% of what we paid from Dykes Lumber a few weeks ago
(long story basically we purchased 4 but changed our mind on one of them and installed a 36x98 door in the stairwell instead).
I can tell the difference by both sight and touch.
Pulsar is a new color similar to calacatta marble, gray streaks with highlights of various shades of beige (pale to slight rust color). See: http://www.silestoneusa.com/colors/color/pulsar/
Since the kitchen is small, I thought I might put in white cabinets with a matching Silestone counter and floor, possibly the Pulsar color. I could then put some color in the backsplash that blends with the beige/rust color in the Silestone.
alanhart: I've had the same problem with porcelain floors being hard on my back. I put a small, cushiony mat where I tend to stand the longest. Sorry, no sparkle in the color I'm looking at.
I have a bit of Silestone in my apt... kitchen counters, bathroom vanity, and bathroom floor. I'm not familiar with Pulsar, but all of mine has the mirror flecks in it, so it reflects light. I think it looks great (and, everyone that has seen it seems to agree, unless they are lying), and it wears well. Ours is about 7 years old, and the floor shows no signs of wear. It's not slippery, either.
I would definitely buy Silestone again.
I put 12x12 Silestone floors in my galley kitchen. I had them butted, ungrouted. They're magnificent, and very sparkly! To quote Dolly Parton, "it takes a lot of money to look this cheap".
The only downside is that it's hard on your back if you stand on it for prolonged stretches of time. You can wear those hideous rubber clogs with all the holes on top to mitigate that. Also, be advised that there's a slight bevel to them.
I am renovating my small, galley kitchen. I think I want to install a quartz countertop, possibly Silestone's new Pulsar. I noticed that Silestone can be ordered in 12 x 12 , 16 x 16, and 12 x 24 sizes to be used as flooring. What are the drawbacks? Is it slippery?
Hi KyleWest, thank you for all your insights- especially regarding coops in GW. I have an offer out on an pre war apartment in the village and was hoping I could get your advice, offline, about the building and some renovations I would need to do. if you are up for chatting, you can contact me on SW72AG@gmail.com. I'd truly appreciate your help :) Many thanks in advance, S
No. Just good at renovations. And estimates. A frequent poster on SE is Primer who is a contractor. His numbers and job assessments and mine typically mirror one another. If you post a renovation question, he is likely to respond.
kylewest, are you a contractor?
The have "restrooms" in San Fran apts? Like a gas station?
Just be careful about the Wolf. I am remodeling my kitchen and was told it was not a great stove for my kitchen because it doesn't have a window and I cannot install the required vent. Wolf produces a great deal of heat.
Also, a lot of friends have been dumping their Subzero refrigerators due to repair issues.
We're buying a French door Liebherr and one of the new GE ranges with the tri-burners found on the Wolf.
Prior to buying we had looked at Wolf and Subzero at both PC Richards (where the salesmen were pleasant but had little product knowledge) and also at the Wolf/Subzero showroom at the A&D Building on East 58th Street. There was no problem with us just walking into the showroom on our own, with no contractor or architect with us and the folks there were very helpful with info, answers to questions, and lots of brochures and literature. They did not advocate for any particular retailer.
But when it came to buying we bought from Curto's in Yonkers. Did the entire transaction by telephone and had a perfect experience -- price, delivery, and service.
As for compatibility issues, we asked the showroom folks for the gas stove requirements, reviewed these with our superintendent, and then knew what to buy. While we wanted dual fuel, we had to go all-gas on the Wolf. We live in a pre-war that has nothing close to the electrical power needed for a dual fuel (the showroom, which is experienced with putting their products into NYC apartments, predicted that would be the case after asking the age of our building). I don't think this was unique to the Wolf and that we would have had the same issue with any dual fuel range.
Come to think of it, I do have a daylily garden maturing very nicely that I planted around the time Gringer came into my life.
huntersburg: that description sounds like it's of a person who is about ready to do nothing.
In the case of apt23: she posted a comment on streeteasy, describing how she called the NYPD to report that her husband had a gun.
Riversider was advised on a streeteasy discussion (posted by what's-her-name) to call Verizon and demand to speak to "a Level 3 Retention Specialist", although he probably just called Verizon and informed them that he is taking his business elsewhere (in which case: the Verizon customer service rep would apologize and then transfer him to a supervisor. Riversider wouldn't need to ask to be transferred and would be able to negotiate a better rate).
Having a garden is always a better way to deal with the daily frustrations of life.
(But only if it doesn't lead to wanting to have a better garden, a bigger and better garden,with the expectation that it would lead to a better life. "Then, it doesn't").
Riversider: However, if you had a major glitch you could react to the aggravation by doing frenetic gardening
(if you had a garden). "Hours and hours and many dozens of phone calls and missed time from work" would send you straight to your garden, the next available weekend.
thank you. there is nothing posted on that site about anything being done on that unit.
Check the on line NYC permits database
yes, work has been done and since then there it leaks into my apartment on occasion . I am out 3k in dames thus far over a 4 year period. I want to know if in fact the work was done properly and professionally. My landlord has not been cooperative with the issue and jus keeps painting the ceiling. i guess proof of filing is what i am looking for.
many thanks for help!
Yes. Definitely. There is a very limited scope of work to what you can do WITHOUT a permit (ie: replace fixtures IN PLACE, cabinetry in the kitchen, etc). Obviously there is plumbing work being done (moving an entire bathroom), probably some electrical, probably new walls or some type of layout re-arrangement (perhaps not - but a gut is quite extensive).
What do you mean by legally? Was the work already done? Are you looking for proof of proper filing?
It's not the size of the building, it's the type of work done that determines the permits required. You can look up info on specific buildings at http://www.nyc.gov/html/dob/html/home/home.shtml.
UWSider85: we recently did reno in our apt. It is important to have a completion date no matter how big or small your project is. Because your project is relatively small, it should not become low priority for your project team such that they shift resources to larger projects and your timeline gets exptended. If the estimated completion timeframe is 4 weeks, you can agree upon a +/- 1 week buffer, but after 5 weeks, if the project is not complete, you can ask for a penalty of some sort. A good project team wants to complete your project on time without delay so that they can move on to other projects. Unless there are unforeseen delays, I do not see why the contractor would overshoot the timeline by a big margin. Definitely have a payment schedule based on milestones
flarf is right, if you want to use the stick, you have to use a carrot too. And also no good contractor gives a crap about your tiny powder room renovation, so by beginning your relationship with punitive negotiations, you really are going to get what you deserve.
Are you in a Co-op? In my building we must submit our plans and a completion date. If we don't finish when we say we will, we, not the contractor, are fined something like $200 per day.
Thanks for that reality check, flarf. Are others in agreement?
Are you also willing to offer a completion bonus for every day the contractor comes in ahead of schedule?
If not, the contractor only stands to lose from the arrangement. There's a lot of work going on in the city right now (including jobs a lot bigger than a powder room renovation), and you risk somebody worth his salt just moving onto the next potential client instead.
If you're worried about the job dragging out, work out a payment schedule based on job milestones.
I'd spend more time finding a contractor you feel comfortable with. Can they provide recent references? Any complaints on the Internet? Insurance up to date? How fast do you get a response to e-mails and phone calls? Do they show up on time for appointments?