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Assuming the closet where the W/D will be going doesn't already have water supply and drain lines, it will absolutely require filing with DOB, and that's assuming the building is OK with the project.
Hard to imagine the all-in cost coming in below $100k.
I am just completing a reno of my UES 600 sf studio with very similar scope:
- gut reno of existing kitchen (7' x 12'): left plumbing /appliances in same locations, used Home Depot cabinets
- gut reno of bathroom (5' x 7') with all plumbing left is same location
- replaced two closets with IKEA cabinets
- replaced electric fuse box with new electric panel
- added recessed lighting at kitchen & bathroom (total 10 fixtures)
- removed one door
- replaced baseboards throughout
The cost including contractors and materials is $72,000. That does not include architect fees, expeditor fees, asbestos inspection/removal fees, co-op fees. You'll most likely need approval from your building before your allowed to do any work. The addition of W/D or removal of walls may require permitting with DOB in which case you'll be looking at a spending a lot more time and money.
I had my apt renovated abt 1/2 yr ago with very similar criteria as you. I interviewed a lot of contractors and I ended up going with Jeff aka primer who's highly recommended on streeteasy. I couldn't be happier with the result. You can reach him at email@example.com and you can also email me firstname.lastname@example.org for before and after pics as well.
We just entered into a contract on a one bedroom (approx. 900 sq ft) apartment on the UES, which we will be closing on in early July. Our wish-list of renovations (which we plan to do before moving in) are:
1. gut renovation of 7'X11' kitchen (leaving plumbing, appliances, etc. in same location), not high-end/custom, but better than Ikea
2. refinish hardwood floors throughout
3. retile bathroom and replace vanity
4. replace 4 radiator covers with wall-to-wall custom covers (one 13', one 10' and 2 two smaller (4-5') units), with built-in storage on the two larger units
5. new overhead track lighting in living room and bedroom
6. add washer/dryer in existing closet
7. possibly adding one closet (60"X24")
We would greatly appreciate any estimates for all of the above, as well as any recommendations for contractors.
Hi, I can't imagine bathroom to be done under 25-30k anywhere in Manhattan even with IKEA
10K sounds about right for the bathroom plus another 5K if branch line replacement is mandated. The light fixtures and switches you could do yourself - thats what I did. It seems daunting at first, but after the first couple, its pretty straightforward. Otherwise, probably 1K-2K (depends on how many).
Painting: estimates are all over the place, but you are probably looking at 4K minimum, and a lot more if the walls are in bad shape.
So that leaves you with less than 10K for the floors and the changes to the layout. Depending on how straightforward the latter is, you may just about be able to squeeze it under 30k, but I wouldn't bank on it. Better to figure on 40k, in my opinion. The biggest factor on cost is going to be how the building treats you. If they do not require permits for the wall nor branch line replacement in the bathroom, you will end up at the lower end of the range.
Sure belgariad: my email is email@example.com
f1champ, it's maybe possible. please list your email address if you want the contractor's details.
Primer05's estimates are similar to what I'm getting from contractors/architects. Everything costs more in the city due to the added requirements from the coop/condo boards related to insurance, licensing, asbestos/lead, construction debris removal, restricted work times, etc. (eg 2 million dollar insurance policy for contractor)
I'm waiting on the final proposal for my kitchen. I expect it will be around 30K without appliances. The Board is requiring laticrete (waterproofing membrane) on the floor along with soundproofing. They also have a list of things for plumbing upgrades. We already had the fuse box upgraded to a circuit breaker as per building requirements and rewired, adding new outlets to code. The walls and ceiling need to be plastered and skim coated as they are in bad shape. I've opted to widen the kitchen doorway and add a water filtration system. I'll get a break on the cabinet removal since a friend wants them for her store room since they're metal.
Then I have to give the Board a $5,000 deposit against building damages. The application for the renovation will be $1,000, non-refundable.
The estimates for the bathroom run between 10 to 20K. There's a lot of work needed here since nothing was done to the bathroom since the building opened in 1952. It has pink tiles and a small wall mounted sink. There is a defunct radiator under the sink that needs to be removed. I've already had it rewired and switched out the light fixtures.
Start off by walking around the apartment without shoes, particularly women's high heels. Than learn to glide or shuffle around the apartment rather than walking like you do out in the street. If that doesn't do it, get the 80% carpeting in all rooms. I know you hate covering that beautiful new floor but that's what you'll have to do.
Your downstairs neighbors aren't "complainers" they just want the "quiet enjoyment" of their home.
If your building is "exposed beam" construction, i.e. where the ceiling meets the walls, you can see the beams covered in plaster, the building will carry more noise.
It's like a musical instrument. You have wood on wood. All the more percussion. I don't know who would have advised you to do what you did, but I would imagine that it's significantly louder downstairs and you should do 80% rugs or rip out the floors and start over. Perhaps a floor guy can weight in here...
Ya, wow. Putting in new floors w/no under layment. I feel sorry for your downstairs neighbors. You can either rip everything out and do it the right way or put on the 80% rugs.
It could be. Our building engineer recommend install sound-proof underpayment on our renovation plan.
You definitely should have installed underlayment between the old and new floors. They now manufacture it in varying thicknesses, and it really does mitigate sound. My building had the old 80% rule, but with a few test cases, we found that the underlayment (2/3" thick with added sound-deadening qualities) actually works better than thick wall-to-wall carpet for sound attenuation. I guess it's too late now for you: you're going to need to get area rugs for the areas you walk the most (or in the alternative, you could get new neighbors).
Good luck in any event.
Waiting till summer to see the expansion is a good idea.
If you use wood filler, make sure you pick a sandable one so you are still able to refinish the floors in the future.
They also sell wood slivers specifically for filling cracks. You buy a batch of assorted sizes and lengths then use a rubber hammer to wedge them in. They do require sanding to level out the surface, so are easiest to use if you are about to refinish your floors.
There is not much you can do, there are some wood fillers that have some elasticity in them but its not a great fix
I'd wait a few months to see if the summer humidity/moisture plumps them back up again so they are tight, then revisit if it appears permanent. Shrinkage on mine were especially bad this year too.
was a cold winter and the gap between some of the planks is wide like some a 1/8 of an inch or more.
any suggestions on an easy DIY solution? is there something i can/should just squirt in these gaps?
Projects are filed by architects differently. Just like everything else there are good architects and there are some architects that are not. There are many times when an architect will file a project incorrectly. It depends on how they file that determines if the plumbing needs to be inspected. There are some plumbers that will charge less for pulling permits and might charge more for the actual work. In my experience it is always better to pay a little more for great plumbers and electricians. Very much worth it in the end.
Our condo renovation project cost us $1200 for the plumber to get/pull permits and close it at the end of the job. It was a Alt2/ self certification project so there was no need to meet with any inspectors as @yknp has mentioned
The OP said that the contractor wants 3.5K for "obtaining the permits". Moreover, self-certified plumbers/electricians most of the time don't even have to meet with inspectors.
The Expeditor getting building permits is a different thing. When the plumber and electrician file they also have to meet with the inspectors and sign off on the projects.
Seems a bit too much. I remember my expediter charging me around $500 for getting permits.
I used efaucets.com and the item I bought was cheaper than anywhere else and came very quickly. I would absolutely use them again.
Have recently ordered various plumbing and lighting fixtures from both build.com and amazon and have no complaints with either.
thumbs-up for build.com
I second faucetdirect / build.com - huge selection and great experience. I got my lighting from lumens.com and also liked them a lot
I also used LampsPlus and had a great experience.
Longtime reader of your incredibly helpful posts (and those of so many others who have contributed). I am about to start a renovation and wanted to ask you something specific about your renovation off board, if you have a moment. If you could email me at firstname.lastname@example.org, I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
IKEA has a few pieces called sink base cabinets. They are built to fit around the base of pedestal sinks and add some storage.
Is there such a thing as a vanity that will convert a pedestal into a regular sink and offer some storage? They just reglazed the sink, and it seems a shame to get rid of it. It's a pretty small bathroom, and I just want some storage and a bit of counter space.
This sounds like something that should come up in the building LL11 inspection and would be a building issue. Railings have been a hot topic and all buildings are required to have properly secured/safe railings at the appropriate height.
When was the last time work was completed on your building (exterior facade work)? I would start by talking to the building management agency (if there is one, I'm assuming there is)and explaining that it's a safety hazard, etc etc.
We have terrace railing in our co-op (9th floor) that is not up to current code. We would like to have it raised and better secured for safety reasons.
Anyone have recommendations on who might be able to do this? I think its made of iron.
I have said this before,
Ikea's finishes are excellent. They are not just for people on budgets, we have installed them in some pretty hi- end projects and they look great. If you use the flat panels you also can customize them.
We paid 8K for a 10x8 galley kitchen--the finish is truly horrible and nasty on the doors (we made the mistake of choosing the "higher-quality" doors). Finish looks a lot better on Ikea thermafoil doors. Boxes are good, though. Sincerely regret buying Hanssem and the cabinet guy we consulted said their customer service is bad so good luck trying to get doors with decent finish on them. Echh. At least Ikea you get what you pay for.
Hi I just got my cabinets done and installed by surpluskitchencabinets.com and they are incredible, I paid close to 4000.00 for better quality then Ikea priced me close to 5000.00 and a china retail outlet wanted 4300.00 so you cant beat that!
I can't see paying big money for a kitchen re-do in Manhattan. First, most people in Manhattan rarely cook. And second, most Manhattan kitchens are so tiny that it's not worth putting in high end cabinets.
They don't look all that nice to me (at least the ones on display at W72nd location).
Lumber Liquidators - cant beat the price or service
pidfloors - they carry made in USA floors.
Try bk flooring in Brooklyn, (718) 218-9288
I also like Eastside Floor, 212-996-1800
BK will be cheaper
Typo - premium floors, brooklyn.
I liked Prince Lumber since they carry 7' and 8' doors, not just 6'8" doors like Home Depot & Lowes.
Thanks Belgariad, will check it out.
try Dykes Lumber.
Not everyone's world has skies that are permanently blacked out by steel mill effluence.
Do you know if there is any asbestos under the wood parquet floors used throughout nyc
Email me at email@example.com. I will give you the gu I use on all my projects
looking for a recommendation for a floor instllaller in manhattan, approx 1000 sf, not decided yet if i want engineered wood floor or not. also thinking 5-6" wide plank of 1/4 sawn white oak, to be sanded stained and poly. may need some type of soundproofing, in highrise coop building with concrete floors, right now parquet is on the floor
I think you are talking about limited alteration application, here is the link:
I heard that there's an exemption from DOB filing if you're moving 2 or fewer plumbing fixtures in a room (i.e. if I renovate a bath and move only the sink & bathtub, but not the toilet).
Can anyone confirm that that is accurate / point me to the "proof" that that is indeed NYC DOB policy?
to be determined, was hoping floor installer would be able to get a deal with his contacts, but have been recommended a couple of places in brooklyn and nj
Bmf, where are you getting your floors and what price?
looking for recommendation for floor installer in manhattan. not sure id i will use engineered wood or not , thinking 5-6" planks 1/4 sawn white oak approximately 1000 sf. thank you
I would not use inexpensive engineered flooring for a rental. You will have to replace them often. The cheaper flooring does not look all that good after sanding and it only has a couple of sanding's in them. Spend a little more for solid oak and save more later
shoot me an email, i can send you contact info
If i were you, I go with engineered plank floor,good looking with warranty and cheaper option.
estimatorr at msn com
Jem, you just screw the hardware into ceiling and then they click in. You just need to figure out what you're screwing into so it can support weight. Is a five minute job.
Just received solar shades for one window in my apartment-- a test run!!
Purchased online-- great price.
Can anyone recommend someone to hang it at a resonable cost. I thought
I would be able to hang it myself after viewing several online video. However,
this arrived without screws or instructions...
-- Jason can you give me Stephen's contact?-- you seem very pleased with his
My name is Frank Demattia. I purchased Budget Blinds of NYC from the original owner. I have been in the business for over 10 years as my father owns Budget Blinds of Queens. I am young and have new design ideas. I love designing and I have a passion of making sure the customer is ecstatic. We kept Steven as installer because he is fantastic!
I apologize for the bad experience during the transition! But things will be different under my watch!
I had both Horizon Window Treatments on 24th and NY City Blinds on 78th price out the solar shades for my windows. Their quotes were virtually the same, however Horizon wanted 1/2 down before they came out to measure. I went with NY City Blinds because they did not require money down prior to measuring. They showed up when they said they would and I have no complaints with the final product.
I am SO sorry about all those posts. Don't know how it happened. SORRY..............................
NYCMatt is right again! In 1982 (yes!!!!) I purchased the "Cadillac" of Eureka vacuum cleaners for $375, which was a fortune back then. I've always had extra thick, luxurious, top of the line wall-to-wall carpeting (Karastan), so was told to purchase a vacuum that would be appropriate for such carpeting. Here we are in 2014, and aside from having it serviced annually, it is better than any new vacuum I have seen or used. It is made a steel and metal, not plastic like the newer ones. The service company told me it will probably outlive me!!!! P.S. The Karastan carpeting looks new as well!!!!
NYCMatt is right again! In 1982 (yes!!!!) I purchased the "Cadillac" of Eureka vacuum cleaners for $375, which was a fortune back then. I've always had extra thick, luxurious, top of the line wall-to-wall carpeting (Karastan), so was told to purchase a vacuum that would be appropriate for such carpeting. Here we are in 2014, and aside from having it serviced annually, it is better than any new vacuum I have seen or used. It is made a steel and metal, not plastic like the newer ones. The service company told me it will probably outlive me!!!!
P.S. The Karastan carpeting looks new as well!!!!
The film lasts forever. I'm able to wash with Windex as usual.
NYCMatt, you said you've had for 8 years. Is there a finite shelf-life for the film? How do you wash your windows?
Not really. The windows have a classy grey tint to them, but the color differential is no greater than looking through a high-grade pair of grey sunglasses.
The difference in the apartment temperature was dramatic; 15 degrees cooler in the fall, and 25 degrees cooler in the summer.
Cost was about $300 per window, and it took the guys only about an hour to do all six windows. You cannot tell it's film; the glass looks tinted.
NYCMatt, did it take getting used to? Did you notice much color differential?
Our terrace rails are not up to new codes. We'd like to have them lifted/extended.
Any recommendations for companies that do this in co-ops in Manhattan?