58 West 58th Street #8D
1 bed•1 bath
Condo in Midtown
77 Fifth Avenue
Rental Unit in Flatiron
Madison Square Park Towerаt 45 East 22nd Street
Condo in Flatiron
Can anyone recommend a good NYC plasterer who specializes in repairing/restoring prewar walls? Our neighbor's contractor put a huge hole through our wall, and the contractor/painter who tried to fix it did an awful job and it needs to be redone. The issue is that its old plaster walls with picture-frame molding, I'm told with a canvas underneath. Someone suggested replacing the canvas, while another suggested skim-coating but my worry is that will not match the rest of the wall. Would like an expert opinion before the wall is damaged further. TIA if you have any suggestions.
You may give Noelle Newell a try. http://www.houzz.com/pro/noelle-newell/noelle-newell She's based out of Fairfield County but has done a lot of work in the city.
I can recommend a great designer that will help you. email me at email@example.com
Am looking for a recommendation for an interior designer/decorator who can help select sofas, rugs, art etc. Its for 2 rooms in apartment so not a huge job but still meaningful work
My name is Richard Garey and I am the principal of Manhatta Architecture, P.C. http://www.manhatta.net/ If you are interested, I would be happy to meet you on site to discuss the proposed renovation. Please feel free to contact me directly via the CONTACT form on my website. If the wall is "thick", that most likely implies it's structural and therefore some sort of lintel/arch would need to be installed. I doubt it's an impossible task, but it's worth bidding out to determine whether it's within your budget.
The starting purchase price for the apartments was $528 psqft
Coop unit 7 $325,000
Coop unit 8 $250,000
Coop unit 5 $299,000
The total space ended up being 1655 sq ft once all three apartments combined (1405 int/250 ext)
Made up of 875 upstairs (liv/dining/kit/2nd br/bath/walkin closet), rear deck outside is additional 250, and 530 in the new downstairs master bedroom suite (br/bath/walkin closet + washer/dryer).
All measurements exclude common area stairs. We also own the roof rights on top of apt 7&8 which would be around 800sq ft, which we considered extending onto to develop into a larger deck if we wanted it.
Was a wall to wall gut renovation for all three apartments.
I think the proportions work out great, master bedroom is large compared to most NY apartments but for $2.2+m pricepoint in todays market you'd want that.
We still need to replace the rear deck, upstairs fireplace, install built ins for downstairs closet a few other odds and ends we have in mind over the next 10 years before we plan to sell, and have spent about $250 psqft so far and will probably cost about $300 by the time everything is finished so at around $850psqft we've done ok considering comps are around $1250+ psqft (though keep in mind some of those prices are now 8-5 years old etc and market has moved).
I have not seen the floor plan but if you can do wet over dry you can almost make the one studio a big eat in kitchen, I am not saying to do that but one could if they wanted to.
The problem with that concept is: Where do you expand the kitchen into? The already undersized living room? Often the only way to make it work is to combine 4 studios (not 3) to make a 2BR with Kitchen/Dining Room but that can put a strain on the numbers.
I think a big question is if you are able to do wet over dry, if you are the proportions should work out just fine. If you cannot then the kitchen will be way too small.
My name is Richard Garey and I am the principal of Manhatta Architecture, P.C. http://www.manhatta.net/ Should you opt for the "design and bid out" option, I would be happy to put together a proposal for architectural services. As noted above, Design/Build tends to limit your flexibility in terms of competitive bidding the general contracting which is the most expensive line item on a renovation.
I think it's good to a separate architect / contractor yourself - like you say, there's a bit more accountability that way, and if you have problems with someone you can swap them out without starting the whole thing over with someone new.
I think you just need to shop around for an architect, and be very clear and firm about budget. You have some bids, so it's not like you're making the number up - you just need to tell them the budget is $250, or $300 max, plus $20k for architecture (or whatever you feel comfortable with - not hourly for an unbounded number of hours). Not $380k for the whole project.
It's true that costs can vary, and there are high end or low end finishes that can be used, but at the end of the day there's only so much value to be added to a given apartment, so you need someone who can target that number, and not treat it as an open-ended or unknowable thing.
If you are happy with what D&B is providing (finishes, marble/stone, cabinets, lighting, closets, appliances, door hardware, fixtures etc) and do not plan on making changes, that seems like a way to go. Just make sure that the contract is capped and includes field changes etc. In addition, D&B tend to work with few standard designs rather than customizing everything to your liking. If you are ok with that, it will save you time and hassle in decision making.
I know this is probably a discussion that has been beaten over and over.
For my 1400 sq ft gut renovation I've now received bids from Design & Build Companies and architects.
I've read in different forums that D&B for a gut renovation is not the way to go. That there is no real accountability involved since your are putting your eggs in one basket.
On the flip side, I've heard, if you're doing a basic design/layout having an architect seperately will be expensive and overkill.
D&B 1 : All labor, finishes, permits, 290k + 9-12k for Architect
Architect: May charge hourly but thinks the project will be around 300-380k
Contractor: Says he can do the job for 250 (I would have to hire an architect)
So, I'm not sure what to go off on. I did get other quotes but I'm just mentioning the 3 above.
Gramercy08 My name is Richard Garey and I am the principal of Manhatta Architecture, P.C. http://www.manhatta.net/ For a central air quotation, I would recommend you reach out to Karim Gazzah firstname.lastname@example.org Karim was the mechanical contractor on several projects of mine and he has been excellent.
@walkinchelsea, still here. In the interim, we also had a shareholder in our building install central air through a condenser located under a window as opposed to the mini split I installed.
i'm installing central air in my classic 6 right now as part of a larger renovation. the apartment is about 1700 sqft, and we are having two air handlers and two condenser units. air conditioning contract for ductwork and equipment was about $50k. there are additional costs to close everything back up around the drywall, but hard to break that out specifically.
Hey Earo, if you are still on this board - would love to get in touch about your AC work. We have a classic 8 and looking to do something similar. Thanks!
For the in wall (ex. Mitsubishi Units) how do you handle the outdoor condensor requirement?
Gramercy08 My name is Richard Garey and I am the principal of Manhatta Architecture, P.C. http://www.manhatta.net/ If you are interested, I would be happy to put together a proposal for architectural services and recommend a few qualified general contractors. Please feel free to contact me directly via the CONTACT form on my website.
Yes, you can get many different ideas for renovating your bathroom. If you are really confused, then it is better you take help from an expert. Because it may happen that we try to do something of our own and the result may not be fruitful. Recently, one of my friends, who lives in Boca Raton, renovated her entire house and she hired a contractor. She changed her kitchen cabinets, installed Impact doors that she bought from http://stormguardwindowanddoor.com/impact-windows-boca-raton/, made certain changes in the bathroom and painted the house. And she is happy that she got it done by a contractor.
I agree with @300_mercer - the super is definitely aware of the different contractors who have worked in your building and can probably give you a recommendation or two.
Just adding my two cents about vanities. We bought one by Dickson Vanities and love it. Solid wood, beautiful craftsmanship, not as cheap as IKEA but not outrageous. And made in Brooklyn! Also, think twice about that countertop that extends over the toilet, which is called a "banjo counter." We had it in our old apartment. It can be problematic when you need to access the toilet tank. Nice shelves can give you the same space with a lot more flexibility.
Thank you all for the input.
I did end up communicating my concern with the budget to this architect (who is licensed, member of the AIA and whose 3 references said she was great to work with. I do however, believe that she is on the expensive side. While talking to some of the references, I asked them all, "where do you stay during renovations" Most of them said they stayed in rentals that cost 6000 to 10,000 per month!! That's insane (in my opinion). My point, the clientele she works with must have lots of $$ to spend.
I'm going to wait on another architect's proposal by next week and make a decision.
I did get a design build scope of work but from what I'm reading, I should stay away from Design & Build companies.
She worked with two of them before, and the other (which was the low bid) was just finishing up a job on the same line in the building, and she was able to take a tour before soliciting their bid for my project.
Did the architect work with all 3 contractors before? It seems odd that she would suggest using the lowest unless she knew them because the low bid usually ends up a disaster
I want to add a word in favor of the full service percentage based model. I was mostly out of town for a major gut reno of an estate sale apartment, and I really needed someone knowledgeable on the ground to oversee the project as well as communicate with the DOB, building architect, and in my case, the Landmarks Commission as well. I felt a good connection with an architect, as did the OP, and I felt like she respected my budget and didn't abuse my trust in any way. She took care of obtaining three GC bids and recommended that I go with the lowest one rather than the one she had worked with the most on previous projects. All three were a bit above what she originally anticipated due to general real estate inflation in that time period, but we worked together to make revisions that didn't make a big difference to me and got the price tag back in my range. From that point, the final cost was within 3-4% of the quote, plus I had minimal headaches, didn't make enemies of my neighbors before ever moving in, and was delighted with the result. I think if the OP has a good feeling about this architect (and of course does due diligence), he/she should make clear that the budget has to be at the lower end of the quoted range, and the architect can get the GC bids accordingly; at that point, the exact cost should be relatively clear rather than within such a wide range.
There are many ways to go about hiring an architect and there are pros and cons for each.
You might only need one like FireGragon. One of my favorite architects would rather come in do the site survey and get all approvals and not do any design at all. That's the least expensive but if you hire the wrong contractor you are in for a rough ride. You can hire an architect to get everything approved and oversee the project, this is the most expensive but you, for the most part, can go through a less stressful renovation experience. (Probably). You can also hire an architect to get all approvals and hire them either for a set amount or by the hour to make several visits to ensure everything is going to plan. Also need a good contractor for this one. There is no wrong or right way, it depends on your budget and your comfortability level
nycLT may you send me the contact info for your painter please? NYCkid2005@gmail.com
Great. I think we have solved the mystery about people paying very different amounts for painting.
yes we just put a fresh coat of paint.
makes perfect sense.
batraa, I think if all the painter is doing is applying a fresh coat of paint, it is very cheap. However, if you have significant moldings with some sanding required and high gloss paint on them which is different from the walls, multiple colors within the same room, and some wall sanding involved, the cost is much higher. A handyman can not do it. For the type of space you describe, at least $5k with Ben Moore Aura paint and without a contractor and insurance. If you are going via a contractor, you need to put at least 50% mark up as the contractor needs to make a living and is overseeing the work. Skim coating is completely different cost.
I think it should improve resale price. At least to me, plank floors look a lot nicer than parquet. And I think light floors will make the apartment look brighter and more airy. Of course that also depends on your furniture and decor etc.
One thing to account for is the increased floor height. You'll probably need new moldings. Doors may have to be cut and the kitchen/bathroom transitions will change (and bedroom/living transition too if you don't do the whole apartment). You can use lower profile engineered floors to minimize that (I think they make them in 3/8") but then they probably cannot be refinished or just sanded once. That said, it sounds like it may not be an issue to you.
Hello, looking for recommendations on either fixing up an old parquet floor (put in in the '60s), or putting in a floating wood or bamboo plank floor over it (and if so, light or dark?). I may sublet it or sell it in the next few years and was curious to get opinions on if it will make a big difference in sale price or sublet price. Thank you!
Could anyone tell me where I would go to look at the DOB microfilm files for Manhattan? Is it 280 Broadway, 3rd Floor or 11 Park Place? Or somewhere else?
How often to coops or condos go back to enforce renovation rules for projects done by prior owners?
Hypothesis: someone on the Board knows (or noticed when the apartment was on the market), and has told the seller that the sale won't be approved without legalizing the renovation. This was the case with the illegal roof deck in my old building. People did care, but the board and the unit owner were at a stalemate for years, and the board had no money for legal action. The Board finally had leverage when the person went to sell, and forced legalisation of the roof deck and some remuneration.
In small buildings, there often isn't a paper trail. When we had one unit turn over, the buyer wanted a statement from the Board that the existing washer-dryer was allowed in the absence of any evidence or paper trail that it was approved. We thought that was reasonable and gave him a written OK.
agree with @bryantpark - there's a price for everything. only buy this co-op if the price reflects the risk of an un-approved renovation with a co-op board *YIKES*
Not clear on why the seller would inform the board about 10 year old renovations. Seems to be calling attention to something no one apparently has cared about for a decade. Since he has called attention to it, I would wait for a written response from the board prior to signing a contract.
What kind of renovation, and what kind of building? Depending on what you're talking about, the risk may be major or minor. I saw this happen in small buildings that went from being laissez-faire to strict as neighborhoods gentrified and property values increased. Depending on the extent of the unapproved renovation, sometimes it was a big deal; other times not. Sometimes even the bigger things end up OK -- the building I used to live in had an illegal basement apartment, an illegal mezzanine, and an illegal roof deck all eventually OKed by the DOB.
I suspect the co-op board won't consent to the sale unless any open items are closed by the seller. (A sale was always the trigger for resolving the longstanding illegal elements in my old building.) The board will probably also require DOB sign-off if applicable. Your lawyer should be able to tell you whether DOB approval is required for the renovations the seller did.
I'm not sure a seller would sign a rider as strongly worded as what Aaron2 suggests (I wouldn't, and I did a legal renovation with Board and DOB approvals), but perhaps he would sign a rider saying that he will obtain sign-offs from the Board, and that you have the right to back out if the Board approval is contingent on any remediation.
Your big risk here may be delay, depending on what's required.
We plan to use IKEA installers and the contractor who worked on our appartemt before gave us estimate for kitchen prep. We live in complex of 11 buildings and he is not affiliated with buildings but does all his projects here, his feeding ground -- already has his paperwork in he office etc. He actually gave us a very good price on painting and wood floor restauring before. Actually IKEA appliances may be more than 3k mire like 3.5. Anyway, so we plan for him to
Do the prep work, then IKEA installers will put cabinets and counter (separate company but done through IKEA. We can hook up appliances using plumbers from our complex. The kitchen was actually redone 8 years ago, we just don't like color choices and cabinets as well as appliances and the color of the floor.Please tell what you think we will ap spend if 15K is too low estimate in your opinion .
Let's say your cabinets and appliances from Ikea are 7k. Who is the one going to Ikea to purchase? Who is assembling? Who is referring the damaged pieces? Will they be cutting any cabinets to customize? Do you need to replace the plumbing lines back to the riser? Shut off valves? Does your building require you to waterproof the floor? What appliances are you getting for 3k? From what you said you are at 10,500 just for cabinets,appliances, countertop and labor just to prep the kitchen. That leaves 4,500 to reach 15k for the plumber, purchase tile (floor and backsplash) electrician, cabinet assemble and install.
Seems way too inexpensive. The $2,000 to prep sounds incredibly low.
Ikea kitchen cabinets and appliances, no changing in the layout of the kitchen. The contractor who did previous job in our place gave an estimate on prepping the kitchen (remove old appliances, tile, paint, change the floor. We have small kitchen 5 x 7, so cabinets will run about 4k and appliances 3K. Counter top 1.5K . Space prep will be 2K. leaving the rest for fee to hook up new stuff and maybe some electrical work, materials too. Small galley kitchen so we will not have a lot to tile or paint.
What exactly are you doing for under 15K? What cabinets? Countertop, sink, faucet, backsplash, floor? Shut off valves? Licensed plumber?
go here: http://www1.nyc.gov/site/buildings/index.page
enter your address and check the hyperlink on your page for complaints.
Are you able to verify that this is a 'real' inspection by an agency of the city, and not a cleverly produced fake notice put there by a 1) thief, 2) "inspector"/"contractor" scam artist, or 3) weird stalker neighbor? Contact your closing lawyer.
Perhaps NWT, a very knowledgeable poster, has an answer for the second part. Your buyer's lawyer may be able to help you with the first question and refer you to appropriate professional. Most likely, the inspector will not check the whole house but you never know.
My offer for a 1400 apartment was accepted. I had a contractor that my broker recommended do a walkthrough.
He gave me an estimate which includes demolition, floors, electrical, adding a new bathroom, renovating powder room, renovation of existing bathroom, kitchen and adding a wall to a large room to split it into two rooms.
His estimate was about 150-200k (so let's say 200k).
That's just the raw materials and does not include fixtures or appliances.
That said. Is that a realistic quote?
I don't want to sign the contract to buy until I have a good estimate.
I understand there will be other costs . So I'm hoping I can get a rough idea from anyone that's been there done that.
Thank you all!
A permit is always required for any addition or structural modification to your existing living space. Recently my cousin had remodeled his restroom floor and walls, with beautiful ceramic tiles which has the added luxury appearance in his restroom. He had installed a walk-in shower bath, by the professional of walk in tubs Kent(http://www.walkinbathtubwa.com/). After the remodeling of his restroom it looks more stylish. But before his remodeling work he had to require a permit for his plumbing work.
Thanks Primer. I'll reach out to the management company.
I would send the scope of work to your management company and let them tell you if they require permits.
As far as costs its impossible without more information. No idea about quantities, how much crown molding, how many sq ft of flooring, how much tile is being replaced. I would meet with three contractors to get an idea of costs
Hi All - I recently purchased a 3 bdrm co-op and am looking to do some remodeling work. Here is what I am considering thus far:
1. Creating a two new entrances (without doors, just a pass-through) in two existing walls. The walls are not load-bearing.
2. Creating a new pass-through into a room we want to use as a dining room (no wall exists there - we just want an opening with trim).
3. The combination of (1) and (2) above would create a foyer area near the front of the apartment.
4. Remove a closet (that looks like it was added after the fact) in a room we would like to use a the living room which would block the new entrance into that room.
5. Replace a tub and fixtures in the bathroom.
6. Replace a vanity and re-tile in the bathroom.
7. Refinish floors in the front part of the apartment.
9. Other cosmetic work (like adding crown molding, changing light fixtures and replacing baseboards).
I'd like to know if in the experience of folks on this board, whether permits are needed for this type of work (assuming there is no requirement to replace pipes back to branch risers); do folks suggest an architect get involved? There are no additional rooms being created, no walls/pipes being moved, or any changes to the layout of the apartment, but I want to be reasonable and if plans need to be filed and architect needed throughout the process, I'd like to begin reaching out to those folks. The scope of work is pretty well defined. Opinions on cost are welcome as well. I've already begun to engage with contractors to get a sense of costs.
I wonder if someone could help me understand what happens if plans are filed with the DOB, and approved, for a full bath renovation and a full kitchen renovation, but during the process only the bath is gut renovated and the kitchen only gets new appliances with no electrical or plumbing changes made. Do new plans have to be submitted after the job is completed to reflect the lower level of work before the city will sign off?
Most buildings say that if you open the walls you need to change the branch lines to the riser but it also includes if you are removing cabinets as you then have access to the wall, In this case the cabinets are staying so you would not have to do it
I think my building the rules say that if you open the wall to do anything plumbing related then you are required to replace all pipes back to the risers.
I have a related question. Is it easy to just replace the countertop and keep existing cabinets/sink? I currently have granite (I believe) on top of mdf cabinets with an undermount sink. Not sure how the countertop is attached to the cabinets. Part of the stone does extend upwards to become the backsplash, which I want to replace with tile.
Also, roughly how much should that cost, assuming a small 8x8 kitchen, with say 12 linear feet of counters? I'm thinking of caesarstone or silestone. Thanks!
Thank you for the responses. This is very helpful.
If you are not removing any cabinets you do not have to replace the branch lines.
Have you thought about having new doors made for the existing boxes?
You paint or refinish cabinets because you want something fresh and fashionable; or because the whole building has the same cabinets as you and you want your apartment to be unique; or because your overall decor suggests something else would look much better--in our case, we were deliberately aging and warming up a cold modern apartment; or because you flat-out hate the cabs but bought the apartment anyway because, after all, this is Brooklyn, what else can you do?
Our apartment came with custom built, solid maple cabinets in excellent condition and we did not want to rip them out. So we had only our cabinet and drawer doors removed, stained dark (not painted) at the wood shop, then sealed, and glass knob hardware installed. The cabinet boxes remained the original color. This created a two-tone effect effectively taking the modern edge off the kitchen and helped move it to warm industrial decor.
This is economical too. Great price, excellent work was done for us by:
Cityshades Painting and Woodworking
62-12 64th Street, Middle Village, NY, United States
You should find a very good millshop and have them spray them
or just use Bona polish to refresh.
Why would you paint cherry wood/veneer cabinets? There are options available from Minwax with tinted Poly which will refresh the cabinets. Most painters will be able to do it. Go to Janovic. If the cabinets are wood veneer, they just need to sand very gently to even out the scratches and apply tinted poly.
Our building is looking for a plumbing company that has experience with replacing gas meters and risers. Any recommendations? Thanks
Has anyone else seen a similar violation from DOB? Thanks
what neighborhood is this in?
We live in a pre-war coop building and the building has been cited a DOB violation for having gas meters in the public staircase. The required remedy is to obtain permit and relocate 120 individual gas meters from the staircase. We have been told by our master plumber that the chance of getting grandfathered is slim to none. Somehow it's hard to believe that we are the only pre-war building with gas meters in public staircase so asking if anyone has been cited similar violations and how they have or are dealing with the issue. Thanks in advance.
I will look around to see if anyone I work with is available to help you.
Hey Primer05, do you do high quality for cheapskates?
Change/repair cornice and other FISP related work? Do you do this type of work? We have some bids but they are expensive. Looking for more reasonable price. I would think people who work on brownstones may be more reasonable. Thank you.
What are you looking to do?
Does any one know any contractors who are reasonably priced? We have some quotes but they seem to be very expensive for what it is. Thanks.