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I have a Bluestar range with island trim and also get condensate on the backsplash, which in my case is stainless steel behind the range.
This happens even in setups with high-power exhaust hoods. You need to change the direction of the air to fix the issue, and the 5" trim should do that.
It really doesn't bother me... I suppose some condensate may drip down behind the range, but it should dry quickly as the oven radiates plenty of heat and there's air circulating under the range itself since it's up on legs.
All ranges I have ever seen create condensation as you describe. The products of combustion are carbon dioxide and water. The more combustion, the more byproducts.
Wolf ranges are big suckers. My understanding is that Wolfs need to be installed with a strong exhaust hood. Whoever told you a hood wouldn't help I think could, could, be wrong, because it only makes sense that if the water vapor is quickly whisked away, it won't be there to condense on your marble.
Marble is particularly prone to condensation. If you touch various surfaces around your home, you will find some feel colder than others, even though they are all supposedly at room temperature. That's because of heat transfer properties in the material. Marble always feels cold.
So I think what you have here is an unfortunate combination of big range, insufficient exhaust, and "cold" marble. I would definitely try that trim, and if that didn't work, I would change the backsplash (I know, perish the thought).
But I think the trim will help. This is a prime example how things can go haywire during renovation, there's always a risk of something like this.....but at least it's what we call around our house, "rich people's problems."
I just completed a kitchen renovation with a Wolf 30" Gas Range, using the "Island" trim (the lowest - 1 inch or so - trim to the back of the burners, just by the backsplash where the heat from the over spouts from). The first time that I used the over, my entire backsplash was drenched, so I immediately googled "Wolf" and "condensation" and I discovered that I was not alone. This appears to be a problem for some, but not all installations of the Wolf Gas Ranges.
Apparently, during the pre-heating phase the heat from the oven is emitted out of the "Island" trim and hits the backsplash, which is much cooler. Because it's just like a warm front hitting a cool front, it produces "rain," or in the case of a kitchen, condensation on the backsplash. The condensation vaporizes and disappears after about 20 minutes, because at the 20 minute mark, the backsplash has heated up. However, until that point, my (marble) backsplash had gotten so wet, that water was dripping down the wall.
I called Wolf/SubZero - and they told me that this "can" happen in some installations - and that it could depend on the material of the backsplash, but several folks there couldn't advise whether marble or glass or quartz or stainless steel was best. They simply advised me to make an appointment with their authorized technical vendor in the NYC area, which I did. The technicians came over - and I told them that they would need to wait 10 to 20 minutes to see what happens - and they said that wasn't necessary because they "see this all the time." They recommended that I install the 5" trim that would push the hot air from the oven a little forward, so that it wouldn't hit the backsplash and create the condensation. Wolf will supply it at no charge.
No one is guaranteeing that it will solve the problem, but I suspect that it will. I'm annoyed to use the 5" trim for aesthetic reasons, but if it resolves the problem, I'm OK with it. But I'm annoyed because, when I googled "Viking" and "condensation," there were really no hits, so I suspect that this is not a problem with Viking. I was agnostic when choosing between buying a Wolf or a Viking range - and had I known of this issue with Wolf, I would have easily chosen Viking.
Before I authorize Wolf to proceed with the 5" trim, I wanted to see if anyone here has had the same experience and how they handled it, including whether the 5" trim resolved the problem. (FYI, I'm using the Viking Professional over-the-range microwave which of course doesn't have as powerful an exhaust as a hood, but I've been told that a more powerful hood would not help.)
Many thanks for your input.
Oops -- I forgot to add Thanks, Riversider ,for recommending Drimmers, too.
ph41, I decided after all the reviews here and elsewhere to take your advice and go with Drimmers . I called your guy Isaac. He's terrific. So friendly, knowledgable and gave great discounts. He explained that Drimmers doesn't outsource delivery to trucking companies, so if things ever arrive damaged, they take responsibility -- not like other stores where you have to fight Customer Service. He said, "Drimmers has no separate customer service dept. We ARE customer service." So let's see what happens . . . but so far, I'm very impressed. I was also impressed with AJ Madison, for the record, but that was with the sales dept and the bad reviews for everything BUT sales scared me off.
Maybe Aboutready has some ideas. She renovated her Peter Cooper Village apartment because it wasn't good enough for her, but she still had to bide her time there in order to be eligible to sue them.
I'm guessing Miele and other big names are going with some sort of 'broker' model where any dealer that sells it gets a commission but that its actually Miele that is setting the price, this way the price is controlled at all times that everybody pays.
If you are planning a kitchen renovation, rarely a kitchen designer/cabinetry company will coordinate the order and give you their discount, which is substantial. We used Smith River Kitchens and Scott Smith the owner extended his discount and dealt with the whole thing. Highly recommend him!
Nothing wrong with some honesty Jeff. Keep up the good work!!
What's the problem with a contractor (in this case, Primer) honestly informing you that he could not take on your job?
Would you rather deal with a contractor who tells you that he will do the work and then he can't?
(This would include: contractors who show up and start the job but then can't finish it on time/ or claim that they can't complete it without much more money than you agreed upon? Would you rather hire those dishonest contractors who tell you that they can't return to finish the job?)
Since Primer is currently working on projects that require his full staff , doing gut renovations (as described by front_porch ) would you want him to not give his best to those who hire him for such projects?
Do you want a referral for a contractor who does smaller jobs ?
A gut renovation of a bathroom and building a new closet is not considered to be a full gut renovation.
It's not even considered to be a renovation as described in the front_porch description of this discussion thread.
The first part with the quote was correct. What I said was most of the projects we do now are 300k and up. I explained that we now have more expenses and we would have to charge you too much to take on a small project. Is that wrong?
Well maybe I had the wrong website for Prime Renovations. This is what Jeff Streich wrote me: "Thank you for your interest in Prime Renovations. We are only taking on full gut renovations. Sorry we cannot be of help."
I indicated that I wanted to do a gut renovation of a bathroom and build a new closet. I sent a follow up email to clarify and he said he repeated that he cannot take on small projects under 300K.
I just used this guy to take down six old fixtures and put up six new ones and it was $375 and he was super fast, nice and accommodated my weird schedule. Electric Plus / Gerald - 917.279.8501
Any feedback on estimated costs for the following:
Changing an existing ceiling light fixture
Changing an existing ceiling light fixture to a ceiling fan
Changing a light switch to a dimmer
Owner to provide supplies (dimmers and light fixtures)
The unit is newly wired.
Paul at Lidmar Electrical has been very good. He upgraded our entire apartment, (new outlets, recessed lights, moved the box up to the unit, etc). Very satisfied with him. During the job other things came up, (we wanted an induction stove, needed more juice) he was very accommodating. He is licensed/insured and highly recommended by others. Number is 917 939 4956
I used this guy for many of the same things you are looking to have done and I live in Brooklyn Heights:
Spotlight Electric, LLC | Jaroslaw Choinski, President | 243 McDonald Ave #6T | Brooklyn, NY 11218
t: 718.666.5303 • f: 321.600.5303 • e: email@example.com
I was very happy with his work and his prices were reasonable.
>they are not high end but they aren't awful, either.
Sounds like the Ready family
Get a binding estimate here:
We were satisfied with their work, they are not high end but they aren't awful, either.
Was quoted $3250 in Brooklyn for a one bedroom with office alcove -just walls (no ceilings / moldings / closets as the walls are new construction)
When I moved in, I paid over 10K for a licensed contractor with insurance to paint my very large 1 bedroom, not including the kitchen and bathroom. I had to pay the building $250 for permission to paint and put up a $5,000 bond against damages. The contractor was required to carry 1 million insurance.
The place needed extensive wall repairs, including removing wallpaper from one wall. Some of the trivial looking cracks turned out to be masking craters. Everything, including the ceilings, was skim coated also. He had to use 2 coats of primer in some places. He also did 2 coats of paint. Everything was done with Benjamin Moore 's Select paint (more than $50/gallon if you bought it yourself at Janovic's). Most days 4 men were working on this and it took took several weeks since it was not empty.
The only thing the former owners had done to the apartment in 30 years was to replace the appliances - and that was 20 years ago from the receipts I found buried in a kitchen drawer. They did a token paint job to clean the place up for the sale.
Just wanted to share that I got a quote for $10K painting job for one bedroom similar to your size. Here is exactly what these guys said... Can someone PLEASE recommend a quality painter at reasonable cost?
Living Room, Dining Room and Bedroom – preparation and painting of those areas (Ceiling, walls and baseboards/molding)….assuming you want the cabinets in LR as well.
Your xxx room would require 3 coats of paint to cover the dark color (unless you are still doing a dark color).
This price includes Benjamin Moore Paint, but does not include any skim coating to walls. Minor Preparation (sanding, caulking) is included.
Approx. $9,800 plus 8.875% tax ($869.75).
The beauty of the flush-o-meter is that you're not limited to just 3.5 gallons per flush; you can just hold down that lever and just let it rip until that bowl is gleaming!!
Argh - Preventing your closing? I could see them compelling the buyers to do something but the sellers? I know that my building is very energy efficiency aware (maybe some sort of tax credit when you meet a certain standard?) but they don't compel shareholders to purchase Energy Star rated appliances.
Good luck with the closing! Hope that this all turns out to be just a bump in the road for you.
I would be very careful. I am trying to sell a co-op unit, we have a closing date scheduled for this month, and the co-op board is suddenly preventing the sale because we do not have a low-water-use toilet, 1.6 gpf (also we lack Energy Star appliances).
This seems to be driven by NYC building codes, it's not something the co-op dreamed up, based on my very preliminary emergency research. It depends on the size of your building how stringent the phase in of the rules are.
The EPA says old flush o meters use 3.5 gpf, but some new ones are out that are even more efficient than the best tanks.
SO I would make sure it's low water use, whatever you do.
****DO NOT EVER REPLACE YOUR FLUSHOMETER!!!!!*****
If you do, you will regret it bitterly every waking day of your life.
Too much toilet talk on Streeteasy.
Hoping to screen if it makes sense. Do you have a sense of the cost vs refinishing/sanding?
What is it you want to do? Screening is a good option to get minor scratches out and then install ne wpoly on the floor
We are considering refinishing the original oak hardwood floors in our apartment. The concern is that they may have been sanded and fully refinished before and we do not want to have to replace the floors if in fact this is the case and they are on their last legs. Someone suggested that "screening" them instead (since we like the color already) would be a good alternative. They are nothing fancy, no herringbone or anything, just simple plank floors. Can anyone with experience with screening floors offer an opinion? Any sense of cost per sq ft? Thank you!
What is the "standard" gap under interior doors? Hardwood floors; we don't anticipate putting carpeting down. I was told by the contractor that 3/4" to 1" to allow for ventilation (doors were prehung). This seems too wide (most online resources say 1/2". We have new individual HVAC/Fan coil units in every room. Any thoughts?
If you are combining apartments, you will need to file plans with the DOB. The DOB will require an asbestos abatement form ACP5 from an asbestos investigator stating that the project a) is asbestos free, b) has less than 10 sf of asbestos, or c) the asbestos will not be disturbed. If you have more than 10 sf, you will need to have the asbestos removed by a licensed abatement company and have all the city/state filings completed before the DOB issues your permit. This all takes a lot of time and money. A recent project of ours with approx 110 sf of parquet and vct cost $4000 for removal plus $650 for the investigator and lab tests. (We received identical quotes from two separate abatement companies - both were quick to respond and very helpful in explaining how the process works.)
From experience, I recommend leaving the asbestos flooring if possible, and covering it over with your new floor material. This way you can obtain the ACP5 sign-off without paying for abatement and move forward with your reno. If that is not possible, I suggest you "somehow" have the asbestos flooring removed prior to beginning the reno process.
Also, since the asbestos becomes airborne once it is disturbed, I personally wouldn't want to leave my furniture in the space during abatement.
alanhart: A friend told me that she had her bedroom floor replaced. She told the floorer that the super said the tile sin the closets were asbestos, so he 'd have to seal the tile before he put the flooring in closet. When she came home, she found the floorer pulled out the tile, bagged them, and put the floor in. He took the rest of his debris out. She didn't want the building to hear about this, so she put the tile in smaller bags with trash and went all over the neighborhood over a 2 week period and dumped them in corner trash cans. I laughed and laughed reminding her that there were surveillance cameras in some of the areas she dumped the tile. Big Brother was going to get her one day.
Thanks everyone. When doing asbestos work, any idea what happens to the furniture in my room? Obviously if I was thinking of re-doing the flooring, I'm expecting things to be shuffled around, but I sort of imagine the asbestos folks will not want anything in the room -- which of course is an issue without paying even more money to send stuff to storage.
I can't wait till c0lumbiac0unty chimes in on THIS asbestos thread.
All so silly. Pop the tiles off yourself, bag them, and throw them away.
"Those ridiculous water-bucket lint traps are (or were recently) a legal alternative for electrically-powered automatic drying machines."
They're not anymore.
... but not exterior venting. Those ridiculous water-bucket lint traps are (or were recently) a legal alternative for electrically-powered automatic drying machines.
Alan, ALL dryers require venting unless they are those crap-o European-style "condensation" dryers.
Perhaps things have changed, but several years ago in NYC, electric dryers did not require exterior venting at all.
It would surprise me then, if there were regulations surrounding their venting if you so choose to do. Gas dryers, an altogether different story.
I just looked it up to be precise. My window may be different as it is not subject to landmark approval, as it is on a back facade.
Under the mechanical code of NYC allows wall venting with the following provisions.
2 feet from any window opening within the same dwelling unit.
4 feet from any window opening of an adjoining dwelling unit (above as well as below)
10 feet from any air intake vent or public sidewalk
Mind you I have not been approved yet, as I am wanting to enlarge our kitchen and other things, however the above was the guidelines i was given.
Good luck, I understand persisting for a vent:)
Asbestos? Can't wait till we hear back from c0lumbiac0unty on that.
I'm facing a similar situation -- recently an apartment in my building discovered that the glue underlying the original parquet flooring has asbestos in it. The building is now requiring testing before any floors can be pulled up. I'm thinking of combining my apartment with the one next door, and would prefer the space to have a consistent, seamless feel with the flooring. Unfortunately I can certainly imagine significant expense if I had to do asbestos abatement while ripping up the existing parquest. But on the other hand, adding new flooring on top of the existing parquet will result in a hiehger floor that would be above the tiling in my kitchen and carpeting in my bedroom. It would certainly require that my doors get shaved down in order to have enough clearance.
Are there any good solutions to this problem? Any sense of the cost of an abatement?
Friend just stained hers dark brown and refinished. They look amazing.
I had a similar problem with a place I considered buying. One contractor told me that you can "seal" the floor and lay something on top to avoid the asbestos issue. One area had asbestos tile that was not in good shape and the floor wasn't level. They said that could be covered with a self-leveling compound.
If by chance you are thinking about switching to carpeting, this thread might be helpful: http://streeteasy.com/nyc/talk/discussion/17818-80-carpet-rules
Lad -- thank you for sharing. I learned a lot from your post, and I'm exhausted just from reading it!!
We are currently doing an extension right now, it is only around 400 sq ft and the total cost is around 400k all in.
There are many variables, for example the building next door was higher than 75 feet high so I was required to have 15 mil in insurance which costs an additional 20k. Things come up.
I added a 300 square foot roof deck addition to my apartment in Chelsea (no interior square footage other than the bulkhead). The project is not for the faint of heart.
You'll need an architect to do a conceptual plan, and likely a structural engineer to do a weight load calculation on the roof. This will cost a few thousand dollars and likely require cutting a few large holes in your ceiling. Based on the age of your building, you're likely going to need some type of reinforcement -- anything involving steel is likely to be very expensive. Don't assume, based on neighbors, that you'll be OK. Building codes have changed, and what was possible 15-20 years ago without reinforcement is no longer possible today. (We found out the hard way.)
Budget in asbestos abatement, too. Chances are at some point in time some material that might possibly be asbestos was used in your roof. I had to go through this even with a signed affidavit that no asbestos-containing materials were used in the construction of my building, due to a "suspicious" test result. (I could have fought it, but it would have pushed my project from summer to winter.)
You'll need an appraisal done on the space -- expect to pay a few thousand. There are three big firms that do this, Miller Samuel, Vanderbilt, and Mitchell Maxwell & Jackson. If a co-op, you'll need to pay for the co-op attorney to obtain a no-action letter from the attorney general, and then pay for your own attorney and the co-op's attorney to close on the shares. The process is more complicated if you don't have enough shares outstanding.
If you get to the construction phase, that's where the real fun begins.
Materials will likely need to be hoisted or even craned up. Expect costs to be 50-75% higher, and budget for things like crane rental and street blocking permits. Expect Murphy's law to apply. The day we installed a steel beam, there was a freak, unforecasted thunderstorm that flooded our unit and the one below. The day we craned up the bulkhead to the open roof was the day of the freak October snowstorm; we were shoveling snow inside the apartment. Related to the above, don't figure on being able to live there while construction is going on.
With all of the various costs -- especially the endless professional fees -- the cost of adding the space was probably more expensive than fair market value for buying the finished space. And that was with a dirt-cheap price to buy the roof rights, given many limitations to any unit other than ours accessing the space. Once the roof is open, there's no going back. The project has to get finished somehow, even if the cost triples.
We had looked for an apartment for three years, knew there was nothing like the space we created, and forged ahead. But, wow, was it expensive, all-consuming, and stressful. I would never do it again and caution against it unless you truly can't buy the type of space you're creating and/or you have a sentimental attachment to the apartment/building. Good luck!
Thanks for the comment. The building is a seven story loft in the flatiron. built in the 1920s.
You need to talk with an architect.
She'll ask whether the building is a co-op or a condo and what kind of rights you have to the roof.
I.e., if a co-op, the co-op would sell you additional shares for the additional space. If a condo, whether the roof is a limited common element appurtenant to your space, or a general common element owned jointly by all the unit owners. If the latter, then the condo would have to agree to license the space to you.
That answers half the question of whether you can build up there at all. The other half is, considering the existing square footage of the building, whether the city will allow the building to get bigger.
One way to start would be to go up there and look around at neighboring buildings. If you see other additions, then look them up at the Department of Buildings, find out who the architect was, and talk with her about what was involved.
To take another tack, think about why there's nothing up there already. If a co-op, did the previous shareholder even try? If a condo, the sponsor would've developed and sold every buildable square foot already.
You didn't describe here or before (http://streeteasy.com/talk/discussion/37926-converting-loft-2-bedroom) the neighborhood and building. If you'll do that you'll give people more to go on.
Thanks all. I have found places to source the hardware (including AF Supply and Bartels), was hoping for a shower door firm who has experience with measuring and installing this somewhat unusual hardware. The guy who did the rest of our bathrooms said he "probably could do it," but that was not a warm and fuzzy response when the hardware alone probably costs $3K.
And that would be "dealt"...
Check out www.framelessshowerdoors.com…I ordered from them…death with a local installer. Relatively happy with their product.
Their Where-to-Buy map says their U.S. distributor is http://www.index-d.com
Ask MWE who they distribute through in the US? Then ask that contact who has bought & installed them nearby within the past few years.
I'm an asshole. I'm sorry.
Doesn't sound like bragging at all - it sounds like someone who is excited about home ownership and home improvement. Riccardo has lovingly described his apartment in San Francisco many times before, and I doubt anyone would mistake his pride for his home for bragging.
Ricardo, that doesn't sound sexist so much as insecure and Why read into her post about bragging etc. good for her, she owns an apt and should boast about it. No need to be a hater even of she wrote a post that had been discussed many times before.
I don't think Kelee sounds like an absolute bimbo moron, but we can all agree that she should have those crown moldings removed ASAP. Crown moldings have no place whatsoever in NY prewar apartments. In suburban "custom" "luxury" tract-houses, yes.
RC ,Its a fairly simple request, why read so much into it ?
Wishouse - Those articles are dying to be published with no irony whatsoever. I'd subscribe just for the comments.
I think the red lacquer barns in C0lumbia C0unty should have never been tried in the first place.
Nothing really 'new' about the so-called Super Pantry--it's just a new name for the traditional Butler's Pantry...
"Why I moved my appliances into the pantry"
"Latest kitchen trends: turning the breakfast bar into a full table"
"Have our kitchens become dining rooms?"
I smile every time I see this thread resurrected. The open/closed kitchen solution has been found: both. http://online.wsj.com/articles/the-rise-of-the-super-pantry-1410449896
I feel irritated due to growing mould in my basement area then a professional ask me to keep basement area properly ventilated. For reducing mould growth I install a ventilation system which reduce moisture level from air.
Paramus building supply or kuiken brothers
Besides Dykes, any other places where we can find interesting Base boards?
For widths up to 3.5", just nailing is fine, anything wider needs glue as well to prevent buckling. Check out Jacobean color from minwax, very hot shade now.
Thank you all.
It is common to glue and nail solid wood flooring.
I asked Carlos from Carlos Wood Floors your question and he said the following:
When the subfloor is plywood and has foam (sound reducing) you must use glue and nails. This makes the floor installation more secure or solid. If you would like to contact Carlos directly you can email him at firstname.lastname@example.org or call him at (646) 780-9197. You can also contact via the web here:
who is your flooring contractor as I am looking for a good contractor to glue down some maple floors also. I have read that glue down is fine as long as the subfloor if concrete is in good condition
Thanks earo. Happy to hear that you had a good experience with them. Like you, we need to conform to a specific style/type. I would like to get screens , but really am just hoping for a solid, well-manufactured and serviced product. Ugh, window replacement is not something that I want to do more than once!
I used Panorama to replace 3 windows in a prewar co-op. I chose their fiberglass casement windows which very closely resemble the "special windows" (per LPC) that were in the apartment originally. On a one to ten scale, I'd give them a 9. My only complete with the windows was that there is no screen option for the casement style windows due to the hardware. Some may not have an issue with this, though. The windows themselves are great, very quiet, very strong and they look amazing.
Has anyone had experience with Panorama Windows ? I need to replace windows throughout my apartment and they , along with Skyline and maybe one other vendor, are approved by the Board. Any thoughts on quality/service/value/? Pre war building if that matters. Thanks!
Thanks ab -- unfortunately it turns out they can't help me because my windows are too wide :( So I have to choose from the first three.
i used Windows We Are about 8 yrs ago. they own majority stake in the manufacturer they use. their standard replacement windows were very good in sound blocking a busy 8 lane street, parkway, and worked great. they have become more expensive recently, got a quote a few months ago, but still a steal compared to CitiQuiet as those just charge $1K more per windows just to come to manhattan.
Thank you so much for your comment. In fact, I already have my escrow deposit back. But I'm not sure if that is the deposit you are referring to? Please feel free to clarify.
What would be the consequences of not being able to produce permits or approvals at re-sale or at some time in the future (if asked)? Thanks again for your help!
If you actually did any work requiring filing (which contrary to your information from others, is needed for any wall removal and for new plumbing serving the laundry), the board would be doing the responsible thing in requiring you to get the paperwork and legalize the work that was already done without filing/permitting.
That said they or the managing agent may not insist. Clearly they are not 100% on top of this as a fully-diligent board would insist on seeing your DOB approvals and contractor permits prior to allowing any work to begin. But even if they don't insist now they could insist later (e.g. on resale or anytime before then).
If you have an alteration agreement in place you could try to wrap up the job by saying you are done with the work and asking for your deposit back. That gives the board/manager an opportunity to ask for the permits without you broaching the subject directly.
Thanks. It wasn't filed. I asked them to halt temporarily. Does anyone know if there would be a problem with abandoning so far as the board is concerned?
Did anybody (your architect?) file the job with the Department of Buildings? You can look up your building here, then click Jobs/Filings: http://www.nyc.gov/html/dob/html/home/home.shtml
I'm re-posting this because the title of the other post might be confusing, and the narrative might be too long there as well. Am hoping to get some good advice.
I started a permitting process for renovation of an HDFC co-op (2 bedroom unit), but have delayed the process due to a lack of funds. The only major changes I made to the unit was the removal of a non-structural wall, re-locating the sink by several inches, and installation of a washer/dryer. I got board approval with the understanding that I would go through with permitting. But I've since been told that these changes really don't require a permit. Because I am extremely low on funds, is there anything wrong with abandoning the permit process entirely? Could there be a problem with the board later (ie, upon their discovery or if I ever have to go to resell)?
I have satin nickel finished fixtures in my master bathroom and it does spot. I can't figure out any way to get rid of the spots and/or prevent new ones. I am disappointed with them. I also have brushed nickel fixtures in my powder room and it doesn't spot at all. I wouldn't recommend the regular finish only the brushed nickel finish. PS, does anyone out there have any suggestions on how to get rid of the spotting on nickel fixtures?
Would like to hear from StreetEasiers who have satin finish bathroom fixtures and faucets. I'm gut renovating my bathroom and my designer and architect are suggesting satin nickel. Other people say don't do it! Too much spotting, too much upkeep! But they are talking about "brushed nickel." Looked up the difference and read,
"Generally speaking (and this varies from manufacturer to manufacturer) Satin Nickel is an applied finish with lacquer to dull the normally shiny nickel finish whereas true brushed nickel is brushed with a tool, giving it the "brushed" look. Otherwise - -difference in terminology among manufacturers."
Thoughts ? For those who have satin nickel, are you happy? Regrets?