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Wishouse - Those articles are dying to be published with no irony whatsoever. I'd subscribe just for the comments.
I think the red lacquer barns in C0lumbia C0unty should have never been tried in the first place.
Nothing really 'new' about the so-called Super Pantry--it's just a new name for the traditional Butler's Pantry...
"Why I moved my appliances into the pantry"
"Latest kitchen trends: turning the breakfast bar into a full table"
"Have our kitchens become dining rooms?"
I smile every time I see this thread resurrected. The open/closed kitchen solution has been found: both. http://online.wsj.com/articles/the-rise-of-the-super-pantry-1410449896
Ricardo, that doesn't sound sexist so much as insecure and Why read into her post about bragging etc. good for her, she owns an apt and should boast about it. No need to be a hater even of she wrote a post that had been discussed many times before.
I don't think Kelee sounds like an absolute bimbo moron, but we can all agree that she should have those crown moldings removed ASAP. Crown moldings have no place whatsoever in NY prewar apartments. In suburban "custom" "luxury" tract-houses, yes.
RC ,Its a fairly simple request, why read so much into it ?
Sorry for the rudeness. Just sounded like a really stupid question. If she/he has gone this far with renovations, the question he/she asked would likely already have been answered by even the most sophomoric person. Sounded like she wanted us all to be impressed that she had bought a prewar one-bedroom on the UES. Only a woman would sound so stupid. As I sexist? Yes.....................
I agree, ask the super and neighbors or any contractor who is currently working in the building.
Riccardo, I don't get your post, her question seemed very reasonable to me even of it's been discussed before. Also I don't know how you can tell if it was a man or woman posting.
I feel irritated due to growing mould in my basement area then a professional ask me to keep basement area properly ventilated. For reducing mould growth I install a ventilation system which reduce moisture level from air.
Paramus building supply or kuiken brothers
Besides Dykes, any other places where we can find interesting Base boards?
For widths up to 3.5", just nailing is fine, anything wider needs glue as well to prevent buckling. Check out Jacobean color from minwax, very hot shade now.
Thank you all.
It is common to glue and nail solid wood flooring.
I asked Carlos from Carlos Wood Floors your question and he said the following:
When the subfloor is plywood and has foam (sound reducing) you must use glue and nails. This makes the floor installation more secure or solid. If you would like to contact Carlos directly you can email him at firstname.lastname@example.org or call him at (646) 780-9197. You can also contact via the web here:
who is your flooring contractor as I am looking for a good contractor to glue down some maple floors also. I have read that glue down is fine as long as the subfloor if concrete is in good condition
Thanks earo. Happy to hear that you had a good experience with them. Like you, we need to conform to a specific style/type. I would like to get screens , but really am just hoping for a solid, well-manufactured and serviced product. Ugh, window replacement is not something that I want to do more than once!
I used Panorama to replace 3 windows in a prewar co-op. I chose their fiberglass casement windows which very closely resemble the "special windows" (per LPC) that were in the apartment originally. On a one to ten scale, I'd give them a 9. My only complete with the windows was that there is no screen option for the casement style windows due to the hardware. Some may not have an issue with this, though. The windows themselves are great, very quiet, very strong and they look amazing.
Has anyone had experience with Panorama Windows ? I need to replace windows throughout my apartment and they , along with Skyline and maybe one other vendor, are approved by the Board. Any thoughts on quality/service/value/? Pre war building if that matters. Thanks!
Thanks ab -- unfortunately it turns out they can't help me because my windows are too wide :( So I have to choose from the first three.
i used Windows We Are about 8 yrs ago. they own majority stake in the manufacturer they use. their standard replacement windows were very good in sound blocking a busy 8 lane street, parkway, and worked great. they have become more expensive recently, got a quote a few months ago, but still a steal compared to CitiQuiet as those just charge $1K more per windows just to come to manhattan.
Thank you so much for your comment. In fact, I already have my escrow deposit back. But I'm not sure if that is the deposit you are referring to? Please feel free to clarify.
What would be the consequences of not being able to produce permits or approvals at re-sale or at some time in the future (if asked)? Thanks again for your help!
If you actually did any work requiring filing (which contrary to your information from others, is needed for any wall removal and for new plumbing serving the laundry), the board would be doing the responsible thing in requiring you to get the paperwork and legalize the work that was already done without filing/permitting.
That said they or the managing agent may not insist. Clearly they are not 100% on top of this as a fully-diligent board would insist on seeing your DOB approvals and contractor permits prior to allowing any work to begin. But even if they don't insist now they could insist later (e.g. on resale or anytime before then).
If you have an alteration agreement in place you could try to wrap up the job by saying you are done with the work and asking for your deposit back. That gives the board/manager an opportunity to ask for the permits without you broaching the subject directly.
Thanks. It wasn't filed. I asked them to halt temporarily. Does anyone know if there would be a problem with abandoning so far as the board is concerned?
Did anybody (your architect?) file the job with the Department of Buildings? You can look up your building here, then click Jobs/Filings: http://www.nyc.gov/html/dob/html/home/home.shtml
I'm re-posting this because the title of the other post might be confusing, and the narrative might be too long there as well. Am hoping to get some good advice.
I started a permitting process for renovation of an HDFC co-op (2 bedroom unit), but have delayed the process due to a lack of funds. The only major changes I made to the unit was the removal of a non-structural wall, re-locating the sink by several inches, and installation of a washer/dryer. I got board approval with the understanding that I would go through with permitting. But I've since been told that these changes really don't require a permit. Because I am extremely low on funds, is there anything wrong with abandoning the permit process entirely? Could there be a problem with the board later (ie, upon their discovery or if I ever have to go to resell)?
I have satin nickel finished fixtures in my master bathroom and it does spot. I can't figure out any way to get rid of the spots and/or prevent new ones. I am disappointed with them. I also have brushed nickel fixtures in my powder room and it doesn't spot at all. I wouldn't recommend the regular finish only the brushed nickel finish. PS, does anyone out there have any suggestions on how to get rid of the spotting on nickel fixtures?
Would like to hear from StreetEasiers who have satin finish bathroom fixtures and faucets. I'm gut renovating my bathroom and my designer and architect are suggesting satin nickel. Other people say don't do it! Too much spotting, too much upkeep! But they are talking about "brushed nickel." Looked up the difference and read,
"Generally speaking (and this varies from manufacturer to manufacturer) Satin Nickel is an applied finish with lacquer to dull the normally shiny nickel finish whereas true brushed nickel is brushed with a tool, giving it the "brushed" look. Otherwise - -difference in terminology among manufacturers."
Thoughts ? For those who have satin nickel, are you happy? Regrets?
And specifically what emergency would that be?
I've seen DIY shows where the electric panel was in a closet. It was situated in a place in the closet that was easy to access and not really in a spot where it would be covered over. In my current place, the circuit breaker is in a broom closet in the kitchen. The electrician said that did not violate any code as it was easy to access. Moving the circuit breaker could be a very big, costly job."
I find that very hard to believe.
While there may be adequate "clearance" inside that closet -- and while it may also be easy to "access" -- during an emergency, police and firefighters who have never been to your apartment don't have time to play hide-and-seek trying to decode your clever design disguise
Hiding the electric panel I think was one of the problems c0lumbiac0unty had that caused him great trouble. Fortunately he still has his big Mercedes, and his supply of deer.
As Aaron2's posting of [national] code seems to demonstrate, there are requirements for positioning and easy access with room to work, but apparently none for "disguising" the panel door. And insurance companies can't just make up their own sense of propriety, so I doubt that one barring code.
NYC code might differ, but I see no evidence of that so far.
Our electrician did not put the panel in the broom closet. It's on the side wall of the cabinet.
Frankly, I don't like it there because I can't use the shelf that it's near so that I can provide access to the panel.
Thanks very much, everyone!!
Hammer drill sounds like bad news for furniture/cabinets.
Sugar maple: http://www.goldenwood.com/ang/products/image.asp?img=Maple.html
You've got the wrong drill. A hammer drill will solve your problem and they're cheap.
You might want to try a fresh set of brad point drill bits before spending orders of magnitude more money on a carpenter.
For example: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2085785/43138/FISCH-7-Piece-Fractional-Inch-Chrome-Vanadium-Steel-Brad-Point-Drill-Bit-Set.aspx
You could even buy a new drill (if your current one isn't up to snuff, but try the new bits first) and still come out way ahead.
You could try Matchless Construction, 917-319-4691, Pete Jukoff. His firm is working on a brownstone in Brooklyn and he started out as a carpenter. I would think he has the tools since he builds custom cabinets and has been in the business for over 35 years. However, since you're requiring insurance, this drives up the cost.
I found the burner on RH Peterson website. Real Frye.
>I have a wood burning fireplace venting outdoor via chimney.
Is this in NYC or up in C0lumbia C0unty?
where did you purchase the gas fireplace from? we ran a gas line "to the near location" when we renovated in 2008 but this is one of the last projects to be completed and am considering if we want to do it this side of winter or next summer.
If the chimney is a traditional brick w/ clay liner this is probably the time to put a stainless steel insert in as well.
I would be very surprised if your burner is a hindrance to your plans, that is by far the least of your problems. Call 311 and they will fix you up. BTW I converted a wood burner to gas and we loved it, but you need to make sure the natural gas piping is installed attractively--you're dealing with a plumber, not a decorator....
When I moved in, I paid over 10K for a licensed contractor with insurance to paint my very large 1 bedroom, not including the kitchen and bathroom. I had to pay the building $250 for permission to paint and put up a $5,000 bond against damages. The contractor was required to carry 1 million insurance.
The place needed extensive wall repairs, including removing wallpaper from one wall. Some of the trivial looking cracks turned out to be masking craters. Everything, including the ceilings, was skim coated also. He had to use 2 coats of primer in some places. He also did 2 coats of paint. Everything was done with Benjamin Moore 's Select paint (more than $50/gallon if you bought it yourself at Janovic's). Most days 4 men were working on this and it took took several weeks since it was not empty.
The only thing the former owners had done to the apartment in 30 years was to replace the appliances - and that was 20 years ago from the receipts I found buried in a kitchen drawer. They did a token paint job to clean the place up for the sale.
Just wanted to share that I got a quote for $10K painting job for one bedroom similar to your size. Here is exactly what these guys said... Can someone PLEASE recommend a quality painter at reasonable cost?
Living Room, Dining Room and Bedroom – preparation and painting of those areas (Ceiling, walls and baseboards/molding)….assuming you want the cabinets in LR as well.
Your xxx room would require 3 coats of paint to cover the dark color (unless you are still doing a dark color).
This price includes Benjamin Moore Paint, but does not include any skim coating to walls. Minor Preparation (sanding, caulking) is included.
Approx. $9,800 plus 8.875% tax ($869.75).
1 guy, 2 days, 1,000 sq ft, materials, prep, travel time (parking?) , brush & roller skills ...for $500?
Your painter is making $22 - $27/hr AND you get 99% quality? I don't know what 100% means to you, but if half of what you're saying is true, put me on the list of people asking for his # (I'm serious).
We would use him/her exclusively for our properties.
"IMO, you get 99% quality with $500 paint job. Spending $2-3000 for the extra 1% quality still puzzles me."
1% buys you bonding and insurance to prevent THIS: http://www.ocregister.com/articles/sandoval-631118-lenney-judge.html
But hey, if it's worth the $1000 savings to gamble with your life ...
hi BA294, I would also like to have this painter's information. thanks!
It sucks if I am stuck with PTACs. I will check with the board and HVAC shops to see what I can do.
To replace with split unit is more complicated, do you have outdoor space for the condenser? If you do, the refrigerant pipes still need to penetrate the exterior wall, many condo boards don't allow that. If you plan to install install a indoor condenser unit, you may lose a window for it and probably replace that window or part of that window with louver, which changes the appearance of the building.
I would like to replace PTACS with mini-split too. Not sure if it would be complicated to minimize affect the building appearance.
PTACS are pretty simple. Any hvac guy can replace them. you should call 2 or 3 and have them give you proposals
I am living in a small condo building. The building is pretty new, so is the condo board. The two PTACs (Packaged Terminal Air Conditioner) in my apt are way too noisy in winter. Does anyone have any experience with replacing PTAC? I am thinking about mini-split. In our offering plan, there are some guideline such as, "should not affect the external appearance of the building". It sounds vague to me. Could you share what you did? BTW, my apt is located at the back of the building.
The contractor should provide the architect and you sufficient detail in their estimates for the both of you to decide how to best fit things into your budget -- different fixtures, cabinets, etc., If two or three contractors are coming in with estimates that are significantly over your budget, you may have underbudgeted for the scope of work you're planning. It's a collaborative effort between you, your architect, and contractors to bring it in at a price you can all work with.
Its all about value engineering. the contractors you have chosen should be able to help you in determining where to save. How much over are they? Maybe different kitchen cabinets would help. Did you get a complete breakdown of each item?
We have recently had our architect create plans for our renovation. In doing so, we were clear about our budget up front. Now, after carefully creating our plans and sending them to contractors, we're hearing back (even before bids are actually sent) that the scope of work and the budget are quite beyond what we had initially suggested to them. How usual is it for contractors to get plans and then to work with people to draw back the scope? At the moment it feels like we're walking into a store and being told to choose a shirt without any idea of the price of that shirt.
Our changes include:
Updating bathrooms (no changes to location of fixtures)
Redoing kitchen, opening a wall, reposition the fridge
Adding w/d in closet next to master
Doing work associated with ducted AC installation (they will not be doing the installation, but will need to do patching, etc.)
Painting (pre-war apartment is already skimcoated. Only 2 new doorway size sections need skimcoating).
Allow 4-6 months.
Thank you SP21 and ProINNYc.
I appreciate your kind words
I got to say Jeff is the best. He renovated my apt a yr ago and I contacted him a week ago to have something fixed. Next thing you know the best crew shows up right on time and took care of everything for free. Jeff is as reliable as it gets.
Jeff is excellent, he renovated my Brooklyn loft and I love it. Also, there is an advantage to using someone who worked in the building because they somehow know the way the building works, how to get parking nearby, the building staff etc.... all of which does make it easier. That's not a reason to hire him, but just one factor to keep in mind. Best of luck.
Jeff (PRimer): thanks for your feedback. I'll email you later and, if it's not too much trouble, ask you to come in for a walk-through and estimate of costs/time line.
Brad: Thanks for your input. Your blog just got a new, faithful reader.
Did a combo about a year ago. Pretty much gutted the place and added a bathroom. The combo was worth WAY more than each apartment separately and sold it pretty much right after completion. Went to contract in a couple of weeks. My biggest mistake was trying initially to save money by keeping things when it eventually it became clear that it was cheaper and easier to just remove pretty much everything and start again.
Good luck and enjoy yourself. I had a blast.
Also!, are younsure you sure that you want to live through it? I downsized to a" temporary" rental where I am still living small with no regrets. I think that trying tonlive there and just going halfway may not get you the best result.
I combined my 2 bed with a 1 bed a few years ago (coop). It wasn't that crazy. What made it easier was having a good expeditor and architect. Since my combo was very simple (took out a wall connecting the 2 apts, closed off one interior door, added another, removed one kitchen), I drew my own plans and paid a flat fee for architect to draw properly and self certify (this is worth the extra money IMHO!)
I also lived in my old 2 bed while they did most if the work. For the floors, we moved all the furniture into the living room and did rest of floors, then moved it out of living room todo those floors. My guess is you won't be able to live there during this but you can prob not move all your furniture if your contractors patient/willing.
Technorat, from experience I think you renovation will cost over 100k
Can't comment further on cost/benefit analysis w/o more data. It's never as easy as it looks on paper and there are always other "costs", not just $$$. But if you've done your homework and are prepared, go for it.
Without seeing your apt its hard to give prices but I think you are too low. A typical bathroom in manhattan costs 25k and up
manhattanrenovations.com / 212 685 6358 /Andrew Harrington
I highly recommend Forbes Ergas as a highly skilled, dependable, and imaginative firm; specializing in lobby and corridor design. Joel Ergas 212.727.1110 www.forbes-ergasdesign.com
Hello! Some wonderful interior designers are:
Morehouse Design Associates- Liz Morehouse 212.223.9549 www.morehouseinc.com
Hubley Design Interiors- Jeanette Hubley 917.596.4433
Sygrove Associates Design Group- Marilyn Sygrove 212.757.0631 www.sygrove.com
I work for a gc and we've had the pleasure of working with all of the above firms.
Our small co-op is starting the same process to renovate our lobby right now and I'm wondering if you would be willing to share which firm you went with and if you would recommend them, or not.
Thanks in advance
Thank you Truthskr10
Primer the new website looks great.
I can personally vouch for primer as he did an impeccable job renovating our apt recently. Gladly show you b4 and after photos. Pm me at email@example.com. His price was far less than 3 others that I interviewed.
Great company for bathroom remodeling RenovationNY.com Call Joseph 917-531-7991
I would suggest you see if there is a contractor already working in your building. It is not easy to find a contractor for that type of work. You really need a good carpenter with plumbing skills unless your building is requiring a plumber
I want to remove a pedestal sink and have a ready made vanity and custom counter installed. Do I need both a carpenter and plumber, or is this something a plumber does on their own? Also, any suggestions for someone who does a small job like this?
Jenny Flores... http://www.jennyflores.com/contact.html
I'm finishing a renovation and combination of 2 apt units -- Architect fee of $8000 included expediting. DOB filing fee ($830) and permit fee ($165) were additional. Asbestos was around $550.
Agree with Flarf that Co-op board review time was an order of magnitude longer than the DOB process.
The fees look about right. You could find an expeditor to do it for a little less, but like what others have said here, its important that the expeditor and the architect have a working relationship. I also agree that the asbestos is high. I just paid $640 for the asbestos inspection/report/and tests for a 600sf co-op reno, but it all depends on the scope of the project.
flarf - who was your expediter?
I paid $1300 for the expeditor on an Alt-2 in 2012. That included filing the plans, attending up to four meetings with DOB examiners, and getting the letter of completion. DOB fees were not included. Architect charged another $100 or so for printing and mailing the plans.
The expeditor has their office in Ozone Park. My architect is in Forest Hills. I would expect to pay more for somebody based in Manhattan.
Permit fees were built into the GC's quote. Once the job was approved, it took a couple of days to pull permits. We managed to get a 2br/2ba gut renovation with new HVAC some minor facade changes through the DOB's same-day review process. Co-op board review time was an order of magnitude longer than the DOB process.
Abestos test and report was $980.
Crowned Woodworks is a millshop who makes custom cabinets, you need a carpenter. It will be very difficult to find a contractor to take care of this. You should ask your super if there is a contractor doing other work in your building and they might be able to finish it for you as it sounds like 2 days of work
I recommend Stephen at Crowned Woodworks. I found him on strreteasy and he did a great job building wall to wall radiator cover/storage/bookcase. You can google him for contact info. Good luck.
Hello, does anyone have any recommendations for a great carpenter who can hang one pair of pocket doors and install one additional sliding doors? The glitch is that I have the doors, but they may not fit in the pockets. Had an incompetent/crooked GC who ran out of (my) money in middle of job and now I'm trying to finish up the reno. Need someone who can properly assess situation and recommend options. Many thanks!