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I don't know If I answered you correctly. I think in many instances construction included that there is a correlation between the price one pays and the quality.
There are some cases where you do not get what you paid for.
I guess everyone can go to super cuts for a $15.00 haircut. I would think most people go and pay more money for a hair cut at a higher end establishment. I think most people would agree that the more expensive salon would get better results. I think that's the way it is on all business.
Hi end restaurants charge more money and the food should be better then less expensive place and it usually is. Not always but usually.
It is the same for everything.
I completely agree with you. Just like in every profession in the world. I personally do believe you get what you pay for. Is that always the case? Of course not
Let's hear about c0lumbiac0unty's construction with asbestos. How much does that cost everyone involved, long term?
you just made that up.
you know as well as i do that there is no direct correlation between the price one pays for anything (much less construction) and quality.
tell us with a straight face that you don't have competitors that charge as much or more than you do and stink.
Thats good for any business and yet it still could be a value to you.
Would you rather spend $200 an hour with little to no problems or spend $100 an hour and then after several months have to hire someone else, probably at $200 an hour to fix everything that was done for $100.00.
Apparently that shelf isn't just sitting on some wooden supports. I guess the only thing you can do is start wailing on it with a hammer, huh? Under those conditions, you probably will have damage to the walls. Perhaps you can get access to a sawzall & just carefully cut the nails that are holding the shelf? Can you pry the shelf off the supporting wood with a crowbar? I guess, "carefully & trying myriad tools" is the answer.
the thing that worries me the most for a closet reno is the removal of the old closet shelves. what is the best way to remove the old one with minimal damage to the walls
Thanks, Primer. The floor was laid at the beginning of the job, about 3 months ago - and they did the other renovations during these 3 months, so of course the floor got all mucked up (with the intention of sanding and staining the floors at the end of the project - which is now). 4 inch planks, nailed and glued with a plywood subfloor. They're about to start day 2 of sanding. I'll send a photo. Many thanks.
How long has the floor been down? Did they nail and glue it? How wide are the planks?
Is it sanded yet?
Can you email me a picture? email@example.com
They just installed new wood floors (rift white oak) in my apartment and just sanded, so they're now getting ready to stain. The problem is that there are a number of noticeable gaps between a few boards - in some bad spots, including the middle of the living room.
Any views on how to remedy this before they stain and seal the floor? It's been suggested that putting in a filler will not look good and will make things worse in the long run.
Appreciate any advice. Many thanks.
Thank you everyone.
Will line up dates and contractor.. hope I get lucky.
"One who is touted did the walk through and what's not, but I am still waiting for the bid...don't believe the hype."
Funny... same thing happened to me.
I wouldn't advise having different contractors come to the site at the same time. Let them come separately.
Ungdoo, I did a kitchen reno last year, and you definitely need them to come and see the space and walk through what you want done (in very specific terms). Based on the walk through, they submitted bids, then i checked references, etc. I did 4 of them, arranged them on the same day but at different times. Only 2 got back to me. One who is touted did the walk through and what's not, but I am still waiting for the bid...don't believe the hype. I was more than pleased with my guy. He did a couple of places for my friends so came highly recommended. Designed some custom things like vent covers and stuff for the window that he didn't charge me extra for. He wouldn't even let me tip him at the end. He also would check in and sent me updates with pictures on my phone (I was traveling for work for some of it). If you want more info, just let me know!
See our experience at link http://streeteasy.com/talk/discussion/37470-lessons-learnt.
happy to answer any questions.
Good luck ungdoo
I don't hold on to the cost break down list. I am not a contractor nor home owner. I recommended those contractors because they worked with me for several jobs, I know they will work with owner's budget, you might need to compromise at some area though. The best way is to have them go down to the site and ask them for an estimate. They will be more than happy to give you a break down list. I am an architect by the way.
Usually co-ops will not allow wet over dry areas, so depending on where your closet is, the building may not allow it. I would check with the building before checking with contractors. Contractors will go by
building policy. Our building required self venting dryer and did not allow wet over dry, so its in the kitchen area.
Flarf, crescent22 and karhu - could you break down your estimates by project? I know that everything is more in NYC than you think it's going to be, but over 100K still seems high to me. Washer/dryers have been done before in the building and in the apartment line we are purchasing, so most likely feasible (though perhaps cost-prohibitive).
212 685 6358
100K plus is reasonable. New washer/dryer may not be feasible, depending on the location of the closet and building policy. You should get couple contractors walk through the site. I would recommend you to contact Indigo Blue Group at firstname.lastname@example.org or KB+ at email@example.com. They did couple jobs with similar size and scope of work.
Start off by walking around the apartment without shoes, particularly women's high heels. Than learn to glide or shuffle around the apartment rather than walking like you do out in the street. If that doesn't do it, get the 80% carpeting in all rooms. I know you hate covering that beautiful new floor but that's what you'll have to do.
Your downstairs neighbors aren't "complainers" they just want the "quiet enjoyment" of their home.
If your building is "exposed beam" construction, i.e. where the ceiling meets the walls, you can see the beams covered in plaster, the building will carry more noise.
It's like a musical instrument. You have wood on wood. All the more percussion. I don't know who would have advised you to do what you did, but I would imagine that it's significantly louder downstairs and you should do 80% rugs or rip out the floors and start over. Perhaps a floor guy can weight in here...
Ya, wow. Putting in new floors w/no under layment. I feel sorry for your downstairs neighbors. You can either rip everything out and do it the right way or put on the 80% rugs.
It could be. Our building engineer recommend install sound-proof underpayment on our renovation plan.
You definitely should have installed underlayment between the old and new floors. They now manufacture it in varying thicknesses, and it really does mitigate sound. My building had the old 80% rule, but with a few test cases, we found that the underlayment (2/3" thick with added sound-deadening qualities) actually works better than thick wall-to-wall carpet for sound attenuation. I guess it's too late now for you: you're going to need to get area rugs for the areas you walk the most (or in the alternative, you could get new neighbors).
Good luck in any event.
Waiting till summer to see the expansion is a good idea.
If you use wood filler, make sure you pick a sandable one so you are still able to refinish the floors in the future.
They also sell wood slivers specifically for filling cracks. You buy a batch of assorted sizes and lengths then use a rubber hammer to wedge them in. They do require sanding to level out the surface, so are easiest to use if you are about to refinish your floors.
There is not much you can do, there are some wood fillers that have some elasticity in them but its not a great fix
I'd wait a few months to see if the summer humidity/moisture plumps them back up again so they are tight, then revisit if it appears permanent. Shrinkage on mine were especially bad this year too.
was a cold winter and the gap between some of the planks is wide like some a 1/8 of an inch or more.
any suggestions on an easy DIY solution? is there something i can/should just squirt in these gaps?
Projects are filed by architects differently. Just like everything else there are good architects and there are some architects that are not. There are many times when an architect will file a project incorrectly. It depends on how they file that determines if the plumbing needs to be inspected. There are some plumbers that will charge less for pulling permits and might charge more for the actual work. In my experience it is always better to pay a little more for great plumbers and electricians. Very much worth it in the end.
Our condo renovation project cost us $1200 for the plumber to get/pull permits and close it at the end of the job. It was a Alt2/ self certification project so there was no need to meet with any inspectors as @yknp has mentioned
The OP said that the contractor wants 3.5K for "obtaining the permits". Moreover, self-certified plumbers/electricians most of the time don't even have to meet with inspectors.
The Expeditor getting building permits is a different thing. When the plumber and electrician file they also have to meet with the inspectors and sign off on the projects.
Seems a bit too much. I remember my expediter charging me around $500 for getting permits.
I used efaucets.com and the item I bought was cheaper than anywhere else and came very quickly. I would absolutely use them again.
Have recently ordered various plumbing and lighting fixtures from both build.com and amazon and have no complaints with either.
thumbs-up for build.com
I second faucetdirect / build.com - huge selection and great experience. I got my lighting from lumens.com and also liked them a lot
I also used LampsPlus and had a great experience.
Longtime reader of your incredibly helpful posts (and those of so many others who have contributed). I am about to start a renovation and wanted to ask you something specific about your renovation off board, if you have a moment. If you could email me at firstname.lastname@example.org, I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
IKEA has a few pieces called sink base cabinets. They are built to fit around the base of pedestal sinks and add some storage.
Is there such a thing as a vanity that will convert a pedestal into a regular sink and offer some storage? They just reglazed the sink, and it seems a shame to get rid of it. It's a pretty small bathroom, and I just want some storage and a bit of counter space.
This sounds like something that should come up in the building LL11 inspection and would be a building issue. Railings have been a hot topic and all buildings are required to have properly secured/safe railings at the appropriate height.
When was the last time work was completed on your building (exterior facade work)? I would start by talking to the building management agency (if there is one, I'm assuming there is)and explaining that it's a safety hazard, etc etc.
We have terrace railing in our co-op (9th floor) that is not up to current code. We would like to have it raised and better secured for safety reasons.
Anyone have recommendations on who might be able to do this? I think its made of iron.
I have said this before,
Ikea's finishes are excellent. They are not just for people on budgets, we have installed them in some pretty hi- end projects and they look great. If you use the flat panels you also can customize them.
We paid 8K for a 10x8 galley kitchen--the finish is truly horrible and nasty on the doors (we made the mistake of choosing the "higher-quality" doors). Finish looks a lot better on Ikea thermafoil doors. Boxes are good, though. Sincerely regret buying Hanssem and the cabinet guy we consulted said their customer service is bad so good luck trying to get doors with decent finish on them. Echh. At least Ikea you get what you pay for.
Hi I just got my cabinets done and installed by surpluskitchencabinets.com and they are incredible, I paid close to 4000.00 for better quality then Ikea priced me close to 5000.00 and a china retail outlet wanted 4300.00 so you cant beat that!
I can't see paying big money for a kitchen re-do in Manhattan. First, most people in Manhattan rarely cook. And second, most Manhattan kitchens are so tiny that it's not worth putting in high end cabinets.
They don't look all that nice to me (at least the ones on display at W72nd location).
Lumber Liquidators - cant beat the price or service
pidfloors - they carry made in USA floors.
Try bk flooring in Brooklyn, (718) 218-9288
I also like Eastside Floor, 212-996-1800
BK will be cheaper
Typo - premium floors, brooklyn.
I liked Prince Lumber since they carry 7' and 8' doors, not just 6'8" doors like Home Depot & Lowes.
Thanks Belgariad, will check it out.
try Dykes Lumber.
Not everyone's world has skies that are permanently blacked out by steel mill effluence.
Do you know if there is any asbestos under the wood parquet floors used throughout nyc
Email me at email@example.com. I will give you the gu I use on all my projects
looking for a recommendation for a floor instllaller in manhattan, approx 1000 sf, not decided yet if i want engineered wood floor or not. also thinking 5-6" wide plank of 1/4 sawn white oak, to be sanded stained and poly. may need some type of soundproofing, in highrise coop building with concrete floors, right now parquet is on the floor
I think you are talking about limited alteration application, here is the link:
I heard that there's an exemption from DOB filing if you're moving 2 or fewer plumbing fixtures in a room (i.e. if I renovate a bath and move only the sink & bathtub, but not the toilet).
Can anyone confirm that that is accurate / point me to the "proof" that that is indeed NYC DOB policy?
to be determined, was hoping floor installer would be able to get a deal with his contacts, but have been recommended a couple of places in brooklyn and nj
Bmf, where are you getting your floors and what price?
looking for recommendation for floor installer in manhattan. not sure id i will use engineered wood or not , thinking 5-6" planks 1/4 sawn white oak approximately 1000 sf. thank you
I would not use inexpensive engineered flooring for a rental. You will have to replace them often. The cheaper flooring does not look all that good after sanding and it only has a couple of sanding's in them. Spend a little more for solid oak and save more later
shoot me an email, i can send you contact info
If i were you, I go with engineered plank floor,good looking with warranty and cheaper option.
estimatorr at msn com
Jem, you just screw the hardware into ceiling and then they click in. You just need to figure out what you're screwing into so it can support weight. Is a five minute job.
Just received solar shades for one window in my apartment-- a test run!!
Purchased online-- great price.
Can anyone recommend someone to hang it at a resonable cost. I thought
I would be able to hang it myself after viewing several online video. However,
this arrived without screws or instructions...
-- Jason can you give me Stephen's contact?-- you seem very pleased with his
My name is Frank Demattia. I purchased Budget Blinds of NYC from the original owner. I have been in the business for over 10 years as my father owns Budget Blinds of Queens. I am young and have new design ideas. I love designing and I have a passion of making sure the customer is ecstatic. We kept Steven as installer because he is fantastic!
I apologize for the bad experience during the transition! But things will be different under my watch!
I had both Horizon Window Treatments on 24th and NY City Blinds on 78th price out the solar shades for my windows. Their quotes were virtually the same, however Horizon wanted 1/2 down before they came out to measure. I went with NY City Blinds because they did not require money down prior to measuring. They showed up when they said they would and I have no complaints with the final product.