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Wow, NextEra, thank you so much for writing - and for such helpful tips. Not too late at all, as I'm a couple of weeks away from the installation of the 5" trim. It seems that it's not absolutely universal that these powerful ranges all produce condensation. So far in this thread, you've experienced it but sp21 hasn't, although my gut tells me that more folks will have condensation. If I still have condensation after installation of the 5" trim, I won't mind if it dissipates before it drips down behind the range. And I agree that the Wolf range really is a beautiful machine. I also have the French Door Subzero which is also pretty stunning, so I don't think that the beauty will be diminished by the 5" trim. I'm much more concerned with issues of function and maintenance now that I've (mostly) survived a long and painful renovation. Thanks again; it was very kind of you to take the time to provide all that info.
I hope my comment isn't too late to be useful. I have a Wolf 30" gas range with the 5" riser trim. I've had it for a year and I bought it with the 5" trim to begin with. I do, indeed, see some condensation when I turn on the oven which was not the case with the Dacor that my Wolf replaced. While most of my kitchen backsplash is honed marble to match my counter tops, due to the fact that splatters and grease are unfriendly to honed marble, I decided to put a stack of highly polished ceramic tile behind my new range (it's a vertical stack of large 30" wide Porcelanosa tiles in a shade of white that matches the white of the carrara marble). I've absolutely noticed the moisture, but it's slight and around the time when the oven comes to full temperature, it dissipates. Also, it never gathers so much that the moisture drips down. It just evaporates. And in far less time than 20 minutes.
I cook dinner almost every night, bake and roast, and cook often for friends on weekends and I LOVE this range. The oven is superb and steady, the broiler is really powerful yet still even, and the burners can be very fine-tuned due to the lower simmer settings.
One tip I was given and I pass it along to you: while your range is still under its service warranty, don't hesitate to have the service guys come and fine-tune the range. I mean, after all -- you've bought a very powerful and elegant machine. Apparently the computer board that is in this new model has had some problems so I already had it replaced after the broiler had two episodes of shutting off on its own; my service guy said it was an early sign that I'd have to replace the board so we did it before there was a bigger problem. I also had the service guy give me tips on using and cleaning the burners (he told me that if you call the Wolf service 800 number they can email you a document with tips and product recommendations for cleaning; I called and the document is really helpful). Also, the thin, removable trim strips that are between the range top and the stainless collar can discolor to a slightly dark red-purple color (this happened to me after I spent a Saturday afternoon canning tomatoes and had one of the burners on for about an hour); Wolf knows about this problem and said they are working on it. If it happens to you, you should call the 800 number and see if they have replacement pieces yet.
Mostly you should use the range often and happily. Bake a pie, broil a steak, roast some carrots, saute some mushrooms. I found it helped me be a better cook because you get so much more control than with other stoves. I hope it does the same for you.
As for how the 5" trim looks, I now like it better than island trim. The range is so darn gorgeous and performs so well that you'll get used to it having a bit of a higher back. Good luck with it and use it often!
Flutistic, Flarf and sp21, many thanks for your help. I think that my best bet will be to try the 5" trim. I will follow up with Wolf/Subzero to complain that this issue is nowhere to be found in their materials - and certainly should be disclosed. According to the 3 or 4 folks that I spoke to there, they are aware of it. I'll avoid calling it a "design defect," given that they label it an "island" trim, at a minimum they should advise purchasers or dealer that if the installation is against a wall, the "Island" trim may have issues. If you look at the website, all of their marketing photos with the range against a wall use the "Island" trim. And certainly if they're aware of the issue, it would be helpful if they could advise of which backsplash materials will help mitigate the issue (I might not have cared had the condensation appeared on glass, rather than marble, tiles). I'll update after the 5" trim goes in. Thanks again. This board (when used appropriately) can be a great help.
alan, what do you think about the ebola?
which is worse?: ebola, isis, noerdlinger, Rubenstein, c0lumbiac0unty?
>1. I have replaced a lot of parquet floors with 3.25 inch wide plank maple
congratulations. This is a big accomplishment. When you die, this will be in your eulogy and obituary.
1. I have replaced a lot of parquet floors with 3.25 inch wide plank maple
2. my tenants really like the floor because it is bright and enhances its rooms
3. my last floor about 3 1/2 years ago cost me about $3.50/ft for the floor
4. plus plywood underbase which attaches to the underfloor, probably about 30-50 cents/ft
3. labor was probably about 2-3 dollars/floor
4. lots of people specialize In floors and will compete for your business on price
5. so about 10-11 thousand dollars all inclusive seems like a reasonable budget
6. beware Manhattan contractors
7. many charge 10x or more what a job would cost a knowledgeable owner
I am about to start renovating a postwar 1100 sq ft 2bd/2ba downtown. We would like to replace the floors (currently they are 1950s/60s parquet).
What is a reasonable cost to replace the floors with a herringbone pattern? One contractor we spoke to has quoted us about $20k of labor alone PLUS materials ($14k of labor if we do traditional plank). This cost would be in addition to materials, sound proofing, any asbestos abatement, and replacement of base boards and door casings, etc.
In terms of materials, what is a reasonable estimate of cost? Where is a good place to go for a supplier?
As other posters have suggested, altering this plan in any way would result in a choppy living arrangement and impact future sales.
It's a gracious layout as is. The problem is trying to jam too many people into a space clearly designed for a single or a couple.
What most people in one bedroom layouts like this who have kids is kids go on the bedroom, Mom and Dad sleep on a pullout or murphy bed in the living room.
There have never been more creative options these days for murphy beds in particular. And Carlyle Convertibles is NYC's gold standard for sofa beds with truly comfortable beds built and designed not just for occasional use, but for every day use.
Invest 15k in a Clei hidden queen bed and put it in the LR, let the kids sleep in the BR. Check out resource furniture's website.
I think it's possible. The current bedroom has two windows and can be split. The larger of the two would be able to accommodate a queen bed and would meet the minimum requirements for a legal bedroom. The smaller of the two spaces could fit a twin but wouldn't meet the minimum wall length or floor area requirements to be called a legal bedroom but it probably would for light and air. You would call it a den or study, etc. There would be enough left over for a hallway that's wide enough to be ADA/local law compliant. Then you can use pocket doors to save on clearance. Closet/clothes storage would be a problem but you could make up for it in the living room somewhere.
Obviously, not ideal, and you'd have to restore it to it's original layout for resale, but if you have no other options you can make it work. I've seen it done. Big question is who needs to occupy the second "bedroom" and what age, and have your really exhausted other options? If a jr 4 is even out of your price range maybe there's a better suited 1 bed for this type of thing where the bedroom is larger, etc.
you can change the way you live in the existing layout: kid/kids in the MBR, parents sleep on a pullout in the LR, dining table goes away and everyone eats off a coffee table, desk migrates to the foyer. Not ideal but I've certainly known families that have done it for a couple of years.
Thank you all for the quick replies, I didn't feel like there was a way to make it work but figured it was worth throwing out there in case I was overlooking something
I know. just didn't want you to think I forgot about you. If you are in the city tomorrow I will be at the site that you could shoot at 10am.
Email me. firstname.lastname@example.org
I was just busting your chops bud. Call when you're ready.
Sorry I do not
Almost ready for you. Will call you next week.
Primer, off topic but do you have any recos for a plasterer/installer to install both a flat screen (60 inch) and 71 inch wide electric fireplace (flat screen over the fireplace) in a hardcore pre-war wall (obviously hiding the wires, etc.)? Many thanks!
Whew! Imagine if your toilet seat were the wrong color. Then what would you do? I can just imagine the thread you'd start here on streeteasy.
Never mind; I had asked contractor to put response in writing and rather than reiteration of our verbal discussion, I just received an e-mail apologizing and promising to fix the problem within the next few weeks. Maybe he reads Streeteasy or maybe he is just living up to his excellent reputation. Either way I am happy and don't blam him for trying the Hail Mary.
Never mind; I had asked contractor to put his response in writing and rather than a reiteration of our conversation, I just received an e-mail that apologized and said that he will fix it within next three weeks. Maybe he reads Streeteasy or maybe he is just living up to his excellent reputation. Either way, I am going to pretend the verbal discussion never occurred. Contractor came to us highly recommended and the work has been generally excellent; I can understand why he tried the Hail Mary.
We ended up putting in new custom kitchen cabinets with a lacquer finish; problem is the lacquer is the wrong color. Contractor is saying he cannot do anything about it and that color cannot be changed. The color is going to be changed even if it involves having the contractor take out ones he just put in and putting in new ones; the mistake is unambiguously his (finish written into contract). Here is my question: Is contractor being honest when he says there is no way to change the color of the lacquer? Why can't he just take doors and spray them elsewhere and then spray the exposed fixture portion of cabinet boxes/bases in the apartment after covering surrounding areas? I can understand why he'd want to say nothing can be done and just pray that we can live with the weird color because I am guessing this is going to be an expensive fix for him, but his is the most bizarre response to a clear mistake I've ever heard -- "Oops, sorry, nothing I can do. Don't you think this color is nice too?" Who says that to anyone, let alone a lawyer?
Zippy:take them to an auto body shop for a quote.
30k PLUS cost of floor, for some reason I cannot add the plus sign
meant to 30k cost of floor
We are having 2000 sq ft of parquet removed, new 3/4 plywood over concrete.About 30k cost of floor.
For flooring, use Matt , Hall Flooring Stamford(will deliver). Excellent service , knows his stuff. We shopped manhatten suppliers but Hall was best price. Make sure you get Matt, he's been in the business for a bit and knows all about flooring.
I am about to start renovating a postwar 1100 sq ft 2bd/2ba downtown. My goal is to try to add character without going over the top inappropriate given the building's actual age. One idea we have been throwing around is to replace the floors (currently they are 1950s/60s parquet).
What is a reasonable cost to replace the floors with a herringbone pattern? We already have a contractor on board (floors were not part of our original scope but now they might be) who says it will be about $20k of labor alone PLUS materials ($14k of labor if we do traditional plank). This seems like a lot since we would have to add materials (how much would that be?), plus other added costs such as replacement of base boards and door casings, etc.
Also, does anyone have a recommendation for a materials supplier? Contractor recommends prefinished flooring. Is this a bad idea? What is the real cost savings with prefinished over traditional hardwood that can be sanded and stained? Does it look tacky? I hate hate hate laminate... which I realize is different than prefab, but I would be sad to have a prefab floor look remotely like laminate when this is all said and done.
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you so much!
Paintzen, free binding estimate, work not high end but not bad either.
I forgot the d. As is aboutready.
I have a great guy. He's a bit slow but very inexpensive and does a great job. E-mail me at email@example.com.
No board issues?
It is about 1100 square feet. Walls are fine. About how much to paint the walls, ceiling and trim? I have no idea. Any good painter recs?
Oops -- I forgot to add Thanks, Riversider ,for recommending Drimmers, too.
ph41, I decided after all the reviews here and elsewhere to take your advice and go with Drimmers . I called your guy Isaac. He's terrific. So friendly, knowledgable and gave great discounts. He explained that Drimmers doesn't outsource delivery to trucking companies, so if things ever arrive damaged, they take responsibility -- not like other stores where you have to fight Customer Service. He said, "Drimmers has no separate customer service dept. We ARE customer service." So let's see what happens . . . but so far, I'm very impressed. I was also impressed with AJ Madison, for the record, but that was with the sales dept and the bad reviews for everything BUT sales scared me off.
Maybe Aboutready has some ideas. She renovated her Peter Cooper Village apartment because it wasn't good enough for her, but she still had to bide her time there in order to be eligible to sue them.
I'm guessing Miele and other big names are going with some sort of 'broker' model where any dealer that sells it gets a commission but that its actually Miele that is setting the price, this way the price is controlled at all times that everybody pays.
If you are planning a kitchen renovation, rarely a kitchen designer/cabinetry company will coordinate the order and give you their discount, which is substantial. We used Smith River Kitchens and Scott Smith the owner extended his discount and dealt with the whole thing. Highly recommend him!
I just used this guy to take down six old fixtures and put up six new ones and it was $375 and he was super fast, nice and accommodated my weird schedule. Electric Plus / Gerald - 917.279.8501
Any feedback on estimated costs for the following:
Changing an existing ceiling light fixture
Changing an existing ceiling light fixture to a ceiling fan
Changing a light switch to a dimmer
Owner to provide supplies (dimmers and light fixtures)
The unit is newly wired.
Paul at Lidmar Electrical has been very good. He upgraded our entire apartment, (new outlets, recessed lights, moved the box up to the unit, etc). Very satisfied with him. During the job other things came up, (we wanted an induction stove, needed more juice) he was very accommodating. He is licensed/insured and highly recommended by others. Number is 917 939 4956
I used this guy for many of the same things you are looking to have done and I live in Brooklyn Heights:
Spotlight Electric, LLC | Jaroslaw Choinski, President | 243 McDonald Ave #6T | Brooklyn, NY 11218
t: 718.666.5303 • f: 321.600.5303 • e: firstname.lastname@example.org
I was very happy with his work and his prices were reasonable.
>they are not high end but they aren't awful, either.
Sounds like the Ready family
Get a binding estimate here:
We were satisfied with their work, they are not high end but they aren't awful, either.
Was quoted $3250 in Brooklyn for a one bedroom with office alcove -just walls (no ceilings / moldings / closets as the walls are new construction)
When I moved in, I paid over 10K for a licensed contractor with insurance to paint my very large 1 bedroom, not including the kitchen and bathroom. I had to pay the building $250 for permission to paint and put up a $5,000 bond against damages. The contractor was required to carry 1 million insurance.
The place needed extensive wall repairs, including removing wallpaper from one wall. Some of the trivial looking cracks turned out to be masking craters. Everything, including the ceilings, was skim coated also. He had to use 2 coats of primer in some places. He also did 2 coats of paint. Everything was done with Benjamin Moore 's Select paint (more than $50/gallon if you bought it yourself at Janovic's). Most days 4 men were working on this and it took took several weeks since it was not empty.
The only thing the former owners had done to the apartment in 30 years was to replace the appliances - and that was 20 years ago from the receipts I found buried in a kitchen drawer. They did a token paint job to clean the place up for the sale.
Just wanted to share that I got a quote for $10K painting job for one bedroom similar to your size. Here is exactly what these guys said... Can someone PLEASE recommend a quality painter at reasonable cost?
Living Room, Dining Room and Bedroom – preparation and painting of those areas (Ceiling, walls and baseboards/molding)….assuming you want the cabinets in LR as well.
Your xxx room would require 3 coats of paint to cover the dark color (unless you are still doing a dark color).
This price includes Benjamin Moore Paint, but does not include any skim coating to walls. Minor Preparation (sanding, caulking) is included.
Approx. $9,800 plus 8.875% tax ($869.75).
The beauty of the flush-o-meter is that you're not limited to just 3.5 gallons per flush; you can just hold down that lever and just let it rip until that bowl is gleaming!!
Argh - Preventing your closing? I could see them compelling the buyers to do something but the sellers? I know that my building is very energy efficiency aware (maybe some sort of tax credit when you meet a certain standard?) but they don't compel shareholders to purchase Energy Star rated appliances.
Good luck with the closing! Hope that this all turns out to be just a bump in the road for you.
I would be very careful. I am trying to sell a co-op unit, we have a closing date scheduled for this month, and the co-op board is suddenly preventing the sale because we do not have a low-water-use toilet, 1.6 gpf (also we lack Energy Star appliances).
This seems to be driven by NYC building codes, it's not something the co-op dreamed up, based on my very preliminary emergency research. It depends on the size of your building how stringent the phase in of the rules are.
The EPA says old flush o meters use 3.5 gpf, but some new ones are out that are even more efficient than the best tanks.
SO I would make sure it's low water use, whatever you do.
****DO NOT EVER REPLACE YOUR FLUSHOMETER!!!!!*****
If you do, you will regret it bitterly every waking day of your life.
Too much toilet talk on Streeteasy.
Hoping to screen if it makes sense. Do you have a sense of the cost vs refinishing/sanding?
What is it you want to do? Screening is a good option to get minor scratches out and then install ne wpoly on the floor
We are considering refinishing the original oak hardwood floors in our apartment. The concern is that they may have been sanded and fully refinished before and we do not want to have to replace the floors if in fact this is the case and they are on their last legs. Someone suggested that "screening" them instead (since we like the color already) would be a good alternative. They are nothing fancy, no herringbone or anything, just simple plank floors. Can anyone with experience with screening floors offer an opinion? Any sense of cost per sq ft? Thank you!
What is the "standard" gap under interior doors? Hardwood floors; we don't anticipate putting carpeting down. I was told by the contractor that 3/4" to 1" to allow for ventilation (doors were prehung). This seems too wide (most online resources say 1/2". We have new individual HVAC/Fan coil units in every room. Any thoughts?
If you are combining apartments, you will need to file plans with the DOB. The DOB will require an asbestos abatement form ACP5 from an asbestos investigator stating that the project a) is asbestos free, b) has less than 10 sf of asbestos, or c) the asbestos will not be disturbed. If you have more than 10 sf, you will need to have the asbestos removed by a licensed abatement company and have all the city/state filings completed before the DOB issues your permit. This all takes a lot of time and money. A recent project of ours with approx 110 sf of parquet and vct cost $4000 for removal plus $650 for the investigator and lab tests. (We received identical quotes from two separate abatement companies - both were quick to respond and very helpful in explaining how the process works.)
From experience, I recommend leaving the asbestos flooring if possible, and covering it over with your new floor material. This way you can obtain the ACP5 sign-off without paying for abatement and move forward with your reno. If that is not possible, I suggest you "somehow" have the asbestos flooring removed prior to beginning the reno process.
Also, since the asbestos becomes airborne once it is disturbed, I personally wouldn't want to leave my furniture in the space during abatement.
alanhart: A friend told me that she had her bedroom floor replaced. She told the floorer that the super said the tile sin the closets were asbestos, so he 'd have to seal the tile before he put the flooring in closet. When she came home, she found the floorer pulled out the tile, bagged them, and put the floor in. He took the rest of his debris out. She didn't want the building to hear about this, so she put the tile in smaller bags with trash and went all over the neighborhood over a 2 week period and dumped them in corner trash cans. I laughed and laughed reminding her that there were surveillance cameras in some of the areas she dumped the tile. Big Brother was going to get her one day.
Thanks everyone. When doing asbestos work, any idea what happens to the furniture in my room? Obviously if I was thinking of re-doing the flooring, I'm expecting things to be shuffled around, but I sort of imagine the asbestos folks will not want anything in the room -- which of course is an issue without paying even more money to send stuff to storage.
I can't wait till c0lumbiac0unty chimes in on THIS asbestos thread.
All so silly. Pop the tiles off yourself, bag them, and throw them away.
"Those ridiculous water-bucket lint traps are (or were recently) a legal alternative for electrically-powered automatic drying machines."
They're not anymore.
... but not exterior venting. Those ridiculous water-bucket lint traps are (or were recently) a legal alternative for electrically-powered automatic drying machines.
Alan, ALL dryers require venting unless they are those crap-o European-style "condensation" dryers.
Perhaps things have changed, but several years ago in NYC, electric dryers did not require exterior venting at all.
It would surprise me then, if there were regulations surrounding their venting if you so choose to do. Gas dryers, an altogether different story.
I just looked it up to be precise. My window may be different as it is not subject to landmark approval, as it is on a back facade.
Under the mechanical code of NYC allows wall venting with the following provisions.
2 feet from any window opening within the same dwelling unit.
4 feet from any window opening of an adjoining dwelling unit (above as well as below)
10 feet from any air intake vent or public sidewalk
Mind you I have not been approved yet, as I am wanting to enlarge our kitchen and other things, however the above was the guidelines i was given.
Good luck, I understand persisting for a vent:)
Asbestos? Can't wait till we hear back from c0lumbiac0unty on that.
I'm facing a similar situation -- recently an apartment in my building discovered that the glue underlying the original parquet flooring has asbestos in it. The building is now requiring testing before any floors can be pulled up. I'm thinking of combining my apartment with the one next door, and would prefer the space to have a consistent, seamless feel with the flooring. Unfortunately I can certainly imagine significant expense if I had to do asbestos abatement while ripping up the existing parquest. But on the other hand, adding new flooring on top of the existing parquet will result in a hiehger floor that would be above the tiling in my kitchen and carpeting in my bedroom. It would certainly require that my doors get shaved down in order to have enough clearance.
Are there any good solutions to this problem? Any sense of the cost of an abatement?
Friend just stained hers dark brown and refinished. They look amazing.
I had a similar problem with a place I considered buying. One contractor told me that you can "seal" the floor and lay something on top to avoid the asbestos issue. One area had asbestos tile that was not in good shape and the floor wasn't level. They said that could be covered with a self-leveling compound.
If by chance you are thinking about switching to carpeting, this thread might be helpful: http://streeteasy.com/nyc/talk/discussion/17818-80-carpet-rules
Lad -- thank you for sharing. I learned a lot from your post, and I'm exhausted just from reading it!!
We are currently doing an extension right now, it is only around 400 sq ft and the total cost is around 400k all in.
There are many variables, for example the building next door was higher than 75 feet high so I was required to have 15 mil in insurance which costs an additional 20k. Things come up.
I added a 300 square foot roof deck addition to my apartment in Chelsea (no interior square footage other than the bulkhead). The project is not for the faint of heart.
You'll need an architect to do a conceptual plan, and likely a structural engineer to do a weight load calculation on the roof. This will cost a few thousand dollars and likely require cutting a few large holes in your ceiling. Based on the age of your building, you're likely going to need some type of reinforcement -- anything involving steel is likely to be very expensive. Don't assume, based on neighbors, that you'll be OK. Building codes have changed, and what was possible 15-20 years ago without reinforcement is no longer possible today. (We found out the hard way.)
Budget in asbestos abatement, too. Chances are at some point in time some material that might possibly be asbestos was used in your roof. I had to go through this even with a signed affidavit that no asbestos-containing materials were used in the construction of my building, due to a "suspicious" test result. (I could have fought it, but it would have pushed my project from summer to winter.)
You'll need an appraisal done on the space -- expect to pay a few thousand. There are three big firms that do this, Miller Samuel, Vanderbilt, and Mitchell Maxwell & Jackson. If a co-op, you'll need to pay for the co-op attorney to obtain a no-action letter from the attorney general, and then pay for your own attorney and the co-op's attorney to close on the shares. The process is more complicated if you don't have enough shares outstanding.
If you get to the construction phase, that's where the real fun begins.
Materials will likely need to be hoisted or even craned up. Expect costs to be 50-75% higher, and budget for things like crane rental and street blocking permits. Expect Murphy's law to apply. The day we installed a steel beam, there was a freak, unforecasted thunderstorm that flooded our unit and the one below. The day we craned up the bulkhead to the open roof was the day of the freak October snowstorm; we were shoveling snow inside the apartment. Related to the above, don't figure on being able to live there while construction is going on.
With all of the various costs -- especially the endless professional fees -- the cost of adding the space was probably more expensive than fair market value for buying the finished space. And that was with a dirt-cheap price to buy the roof rights, given many limitations to any unit other than ours accessing the space. Once the roof is open, there's no going back. The project has to get finished somehow, even if the cost triples.
We had looked for an apartment for three years, knew there was nothing like the space we created, and forged ahead. But, wow, was it expensive, all-consuming, and stressful. I would never do it again and caution against it unless you truly can't buy the type of space you're creating and/or you have a sentimental attachment to the apartment/building. Good luck!
Thanks for the comment. The building is a seven story loft in the flatiron. built in the 1920s.
You need to talk with an architect.
She'll ask whether the building is a co-op or a condo and what kind of rights you have to the roof.
I.e., if a co-op, the co-op would sell you additional shares for the additional space. If a condo, whether the roof is a limited common element appurtenant to your space, or a general common element owned jointly by all the unit owners. If the latter, then the condo would have to agree to license the space to you.
That answers half the question of whether you can build up there at all. The other half is, considering the existing square footage of the building, whether the city will allow the building to get bigger.
One way to start would be to go up there and look around at neighboring buildings. If you see other additions, then look them up at the Department of Buildings, find out who the architect was, and talk with her about what was involved.
To take another tack, think about why there's nothing up there already. If a co-op, did the previous shareholder even try? If a condo, the sponsor would've developed and sold every buildable square foot already.
You didn't describe here or before (http://streeteasy.com/talk/discussion/37926-converting-loft-2-bedroom) the neighborhood and building. If you'll do that you'll give people more to go on.
Thanks all. I have found places to source the hardware (including AF Supply and Bartels), was hoping for a shower door firm who has experience with measuring and installing this somewhat unusual hardware. The guy who did the rest of our bathrooms said he "probably could do it," but that was not a warm and fuzzy response when the hardware alone probably costs $3K.
And that would be "dealt"...
Check out www.framelessshowerdoors.com…I ordered from them…death with a local installer. Relatively happy with their product.
Their Where-to-Buy map says their U.S. distributor is http://www.index-d.com
Ask MWE who they distribute through in the US? Then ask that contact who has bought & installed them nearby within the past few years.
I'm an asshole. I'm sorry.
Doesn't sound like bragging at all - it sounds like someone who is excited about home ownership and home improvement. Riccardo has lovingly described his apartment in San Francisco many times before, and I doubt anyone would mistake his pride for his home for bragging.
Ricardo, that doesn't sound sexist so much as insecure and Why read into her post about bragging etc. good for her, she owns an apt and should boast about it. No need to be a hater even of she wrote a post that had been discussed many times before.
I don't think Kelee sounds like an absolute bimbo moron, but we can all agree that she should have those crown moldings removed ASAP. Crown moldings have no place whatsoever in NY prewar apartments. In suburban "custom" "luxury" tract-houses, yes.
RC ,Its a fairly simple request, why read so much into it ?
Wishouse - Those articles are dying to be published with no irony whatsoever. I'd subscribe just for the comments.
I think the red lacquer barns in C0lumbia C0unty should have never been tried in the first place.
Nothing really 'new' about the so-called Super Pantry--it's just a new name for the traditional Butler's Pantry...
"Why I moved my appliances into the pantry"
"Latest kitchen trends: turning the breakfast bar into a full table"
"Have our kitchens become dining rooms?"
I smile every time I see this thread resurrected. The open/closed kitchen solution has been found: both. http://online.wsj.com/articles/the-rise-of-the-super-pantry-1410449896