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My alteration agreement states that I need to submit a check for $600 processing fee to the management company, 2% of the total contract amount to the co-op, and a minimum $1000 to maximum 7.5% of total work order as a refundable security deposit. I don't mind submitting the 2% to the co-op or the security deposit, but what annoys me is the $600 that the management company takes for every single work order you submit. So if I need to submit an alteration agreement for the dishwasher, that's $600. Then a few months later if I decide to change the floors, that's another $600.
Yep, that's what's happening now in my building. Until this year, my coop charged 10% deposit of the renovation, but didn't deposit the check. They held it until the renovation was completed and then gave it back. This year they changed the agreement, stating they WILL deposit the check and give you the money back afterwards, plus whatever interest it earns. So frustrating.. I wrote the check a few months ago and ..... amazing, they still haven't deposited it. Shhh-- don't tell them!
Each building has different fees and deposits, many are now charging 10% of the contract if the project is of decent scale
$5K is not bad, jelj; I think my condo just raised the equivalent deposit to $10K.
Your super should know what paperwork is required. You'll need a licensed plumber and possibly an electrician for the installation. Some coops that originally did not have dishwashers in all the apartments impose a maintenance surcharge for this; so they require paperwork. Some coops require a decorating agreement.
I am surprised that your board requires you pay them a percentage of the cost of the work. Mine charges a non-refundable fee for processing the application with a sliding scale based on the scope of the work. HOWEVER, the require a $5,000 refundable check to cover potential damages. This is besides the contractor's insurance. They return the check after the super signs off on the completed project.
has anyone done a loft conversion of a loft with 12 foot ceilings?
I have seen it done ( with 2 lofted bedrooms) and the bottom main floor is a really big open living room / kitchen dining area.
How much have these kind of conversions cost and can somebody recommend a contractor / architect?
I have done 2 apartment combinations. Unless you have an urgent need for the extra bedroom, and moving is prohibitive, this combination has bad flow. Your 2/2 will compare badly with other 2/2s in the building. A-K is much better. Wait.
Coopmerger, we do a lot of combined apartment projects and I am happy to refer some architects that will suit your size project.
"They say the existing pipes can't handle it. "
It's http://streeteasy.com/building/176-east-77-street-new_york. Very low maintenance, e.g. less than $1400 for the 2/2 for sale now.
A D-line apartment was a location in "Kramer vs. Kramer".
Thanks guys! The building is on the UES. Maintenance is certainly low compared to other buildings. The combined units will be larger than the other 2 bedroom units in the building, so maintenance may be slightly higher but not much. Removing the 2nd door is mandatory when you combine 2 units and unfortunately they are super strict against washer/dryers. They say the existing pipes can't handle it. And you unfortunately can't expand wet over dry. We also really live the building, location, and staff.
Try ABC Shower Door. BK based. http://www.abcshowerdoor.com/
Try Mr. Shower Door in NY/NJ
Was around $2600 for our job.
Any recommendations for local (Brooklyn) glass contractors that install Tub Enclosures? We are looking to get a frameless (clip) enclosure with swinging door. At first we considered the Euro Panel but the reviews aren't great.
Agree very much so re; architects ahead of GC talks. I have referrals I am happy to pass onto you for such, one in fact is currently working on a similar size project in Tribeca. Good luck.
It's great to see that you're starting with research on the architect before meeting with the general contractors. I also advise that you start collecting precedent images on websites such as Houzz to facilitate your conversations with prospective design firms.
Please do not hesitate to contact my office to discuss your project. We'd be happy to review the design, permitting, contractor selection and construction administration process with you.
Take a look at Shadow Architects: http://shadowarchitects.com/
Larry Cohn is the principal there -- he is well-versed in residential gut jobs here in NYC, extremely knowledgeable and does terrific work.
I know people who know Matt from Studio Labs. All I hear are very good things.
If you do want other recommendations feel free to email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
I would be interested in speaking with you further regarding your potential project. My office's work focuses mainly on residential gut renovations in the New York City area. Please visit our website to view samples of work.
We buy all our Thinset from Nemo Tile in Manhattan. Both Ditra and cement board is fine for a kitchen floor install.
My inlaws are looking to lay new porcelain floors in the kitchen and before they hire a contract I wanted to do some research as to what is the best underlayment for the tiles, ditra vs cement board.
From what I can understand you are supposed to use unmodified thinset to lay the tiles on top of the ditra. But I also read the unmodified thinset available at Lowes and HD are low quality.
Just wondering where did the people on this board find high quality thinset for ditra and how was the process and quality for ditra vs cement board?
We only tile the ceiling if we are installing a steam shower. I don't think there are any pro's or con's. asthetically I do not like it.
Only 1 picture of the dark slate bathroom do I see the whole ceiling tiled. Any pros/cons about tiling the whole ceiling, including any soffits? The wall tiles are already up to the ceiling/soffit. Thanks
Most buildings in Manhattan will not let you attach anything to their existing vent. I would say 90% of of clients as well as the designers and architects I work with choose to tile up to the ceiling. My least favorite (I have renovated at least 100 bathrooms) is to tile up the wall and stop 2 feet before the ceiling. We also have recessed tile when going up to 4 feet. It is a very clean look. Click the link and go to the picture 8,9 and 10 to see what I am talking about
Somewhat surprising that opening the window does not work. You could put a window fan in the window -- they make ones that install like window a/c units with accordion sides, that have a fan and exhaust setting, but likely will be chilly in the winter. All you really need to get the steam out the window is some air pressure from inside -- if you have a ceiling light fixture, you can replace with a ceiling fan and the fan likely will push the steam out the window when open.
what about a towel warmer?
I've seen similar issues on the REHAD ADDICT show. After sanding, before sealing, etc., the newly patched area looks lighter. So she stains just the new area to get a match with the old. She lets it set for a while to see how close a match she has. HOWEVER, she saves old flooring that is serviceable from other deconstructions and tries to use them for patching. The final product is close enough.
We have 15 year old white oak floors in our apartment. In a recent renovation, the contractor added new floors in some areas that are very visible. After a 1/8" sanding and a water based sealer on everything (new and old), the old ones have a yellowish ting and the new ones have a pinkish one. He suggests we either wait a year or so and things will even out or stain it really dark. We understand that new and old floors pick up stains differently, so we might end up with an even worse issue. Should we just bite the bullet and wait?
Ugh. Lacquer is SO 1987.
Glossy white cabinets are only 5-6K if you are using Ikea or something similar. If it is custom made cabinets it could be 15k and up depending on quality.
If you go IceStone, be sure to get it sealed. Unlike most granite and unlike Caesarstone and some of the other composite materials, IceStone is quite porous in its raw form.
maybe check out Brooklyn made Ice Stone for those counters
glossy white cabinet are $5-6k
counter corian $2k
appliances: $6 to $20k (depending if u want built in cover or not)
labor: 10-15k including demolition and electrical
Make sure inspection and sign off are included in the proposal. I understand why some architects don't want to sign off jobs. To sign off the job, he needs to conduct the inspections during the construction and at the completion of construction. Sometimes make amendment drawings if required. Many items need to be inspected before contractor close off the wall or finish the floor. If the contractor does not inform the architect for inspections, the architect cannot do inspections properly and won't feel confident signing off the job. You can also hire separate architect or engineer for inspections and request DOB inspector for the final sign off.
ughh... Don't get me started with architects!
My recommendation is to MAKE SURE you hold a strong enough deposit on them until the actual job is SIGNED-OFF and completed...
It seems, architects/engineers who obtain work permits avoid signing off on jobs.. perhaps to minimize liability from DOB.
Ann Macklin , A2 Architect. I used Ann for board approval and DOB.
Hi, I am about to close on co-op in UES (Yorkville). I am looking for an architect on a fixed cost basis with the only responsibility of getting a formal plan approved by DOB and co-op. Of-course I would be working with the architect on the plan explaining my requirement and drawings with dimensions. Approx area of the place requiring renovation is 1100 Sq Ft.
Do you really need that second sink?
How many people live there, what ages, genders, and familial or relationship statuses?
Extra 6" in the shower may 'feel' nice but will it really *do* anything? e.g. allow you to add a bench seat, or something other comfort or helpful aid? (The only thing I can think of is it might make a noticeable difference in being able to shave your legs more comfortably outside the waterstream, for those who do.)
Contrast that with another faucet and sink which obviously actually *does* something for you on a daily basis.
However I would lay out on cardboard the 60" countertop with two sink basins to ensure you still feel good about the size and elbow room. Even at 60", with two basins cut out you may find you are a little short of ideal countertop space and want to ensure particularly good storage above.
have a smaller shower and double vanity OR a larger shower and more spacious single vanity?
to be specific, I'd be looking at a 37"x41" glass enclosed shower and 60" double vanity OR 37"x47" glass enclosed shower with 54" single vanity? My architect says I could technically do a 54" vanity but it would be tight and perhaps not worth it?
Honestly I lean towards double vanity b/c its something that I think may be nice to have, but not married to the idea. My biggest concern is resale value.
A bit of background, this is a 2bed/2bath (approx. 1250 sq ft) with the 2nd bathroom having a tub. The bathroom I am talking about would be the master bath.
Opinions would be much appreciated as I'm struggling with this decision as it only comes down to 6 inches. Thanks in advance!
I think it is impossible to do a gut renovation without electrical and plumbing. With electrical and plumbing it should cost 150-200 sq ft depending on what you mean by mid-gut
how much would it be to do mid-end gut renovation of 3000 square foot house in Brooklyn 11230 area? no plumbing or electrical work and no kitchen. any idea of how much would 1 square foot be?
The thanks for your replies. The rectangular box is about 1750 sqft, with the open plan living/dining /kitchen area about 60-70% of that box and the rest divvied as new bedrooms and baths. The ceiling is mostly flat, dropped version intended to be proper sheetrock, though at one end it slopes and my plan is to ask them to follow the slope in order to minimize loss of ceiling height.
My bad, I misread the " as '. I think 10'4 is an ok ceiling height, and if the overall proportions of the room are reasonable, it becomes about the increased value of what's above the ceiling. If you now have central air, well place recessed lighting, and a rational ceiling plan (maybe a flat surface rather than a hash of random sized beams and soffits), then I'd say do it. When you say 'drop the ceiling' I'm assuming a proper sheetrock or plaster surface, not acoustic tile in a suspended grid, which is unsuitable for anything residential. If you're covering over a good ceiling (original moldings, beams, etc.,) and not getting something in return (a/c), forget it.
If your ceilings are only 11 feet high, you don't live in a "loft"; you live in an "apartment".
Soffit against a wall
I stick to my guns--if you do it you devalue the place for resale, and you asked about resale. A compromise I would do is to put in a dropped ceiling that could be cheaply removed by mere painters, if you can stand the look of those kinds of ceilings (suspended/acoustic). The newest ones are better, seriously, than those of 20 years ago.
One more thing---how big are the rooms or room? If the loft is small (people call all kinds of things lofts) then the impact of a lower ceiling is probably greater in terms of how big the area feels.
"With the films, you want to make sure that you can still look out when it gets dark outside but the inside of your apartment is lit."
The shading of my film is so subtle that this isn't an issue.
With the films, you want to make sure that you can still look out when it gets dark outside but the inside of your apartment is lit.
The film lasts forever. I'm able to wash with Windex as usual.
NYCMatt, you said you've had for 8 years. Is there a finite shelf-life for the film? How do you wash your windows?
FYI, to those who were interested, Noerdlinger is out http://observer.com/2014/11/al-sharpton-fully-behind-bill-de-blasio-aides-leave-of-absence/
I hope this problem, like Ebola, is now behind us.
Wow, NextEra, thank you so much for writing - and for such helpful tips. Not too late at all, as I'm a couple of weeks away from the installation of the 5" trim. It seems that it's not absolutely universal that these powerful ranges all produce condensation. So far in this thread, you've experienced it but sp21 hasn't, although my gut tells me that more folks will have condensation. If I still have condensation after installation of the 5" trim, I won't mind if it dissipates before it drips down behind the range. And I agree that the Wolf range really is a beautiful machine. I also have the French Door Subzero which is also pretty stunning, so I don't think that the beauty will be diminished by the 5" trim. I'm much more concerned with issues of function and maintenance now that I've (mostly) survived a long and painful renovation. Thanks again; it was very kind of you to take the time to provide all that info.
I hope my comment isn't too late to be useful. I have a Wolf 30" gas range with the 5" riser trim. I've had it for a year and I bought it with the 5" trim to begin with. I do, indeed, see some condensation when I turn on the oven which was not the case with the Dacor that my Wolf replaced. While most of my kitchen backsplash is honed marble to match my counter tops, due to the fact that splatters and grease are unfriendly to honed marble, I decided to put a stack of highly polished ceramic tile behind my new range (it's a vertical stack of large 30" wide Porcelanosa tiles in a shade of white that matches the white of the carrara marble). I've absolutely noticed the moisture, but it's slight and around the time when the oven comes to full temperature, it dissipates. Also, it never gathers so much that the moisture drips down. It just evaporates. And in far less time than 20 minutes.
I cook dinner almost every night, bake and roast, and cook often for friends on weekends and I LOVE this range. The oven is superb and steady, the broiler is really powerful yet still even, and the burners can be very fine-tuned due to the lower simmer settings.
One tip I was given and I pass it along to you: while your range is still under its service warranty, don't hesitate to have the service guys come and fine-tune the range. I mean, after all -- you've bought a very powerful and elegant machine. Apparently the computer board that is in this new model has had some problems so I already had it replaced after the broiler had two episodes of shutting off on its own; my service guy said it was an early sign that I'd have to replace the board so we did it before there was a bigger problem. I also had the service guy give me tips on using and cleaning the burners (he told me that if you call the Wolf service 800 number they can email you a document with tips and product recommendations for cleaning; I called and the document is really helpful). Also, the thin, removable trim strips that are between the range top and the stainless collar can discolor to a slightly dark red-purple color (this happened to me after I spent a Saturday afternoon canning tomatoes and had one of the burners on for about an hour); Wolf knows about this problem and said they are working on it. If it happens to you, you should call the 800 number and see if they have replacement pieces yet.
Mostly you should use the range often and happily. Bake a pie, broil a steak, roast some carrots, saute some mushrooms. I found it helped me be a better cook because you get so much more control than with other stoves. I hope it does the same for you.
As for how the 5" trim looks, I now like it better than island trim. The range is so darn gorgeous and performs so well that you'll get used to it having a bit of a higher back. Good luck with it and use it often!
Flutistic, Flarf and sp21, many thanks for your help. I think that my best bet will be to try the 5" trim. I will follow up with Wolf/Subzero to complain that this issue is nowhere to be found in their materials - and certainly should be disclosed. According to the 3 or 4 folks that I spoke to there, they are aware of it. I'll avoid calling it a "design defect," given that they label it an "island" trim, at a minimum they should advise purchasers or dealer that if the installation is against a wall, the "Island" trim may have issues. If you look at the website, all of their marketing photos with the range against a wall use the "Island" trim. And certainly if they're aware of the issue, it would be helpful if they could advise of which backsplash materials will help mitigate the issue (I might not have cared had the condensation appeared on glass, rather than marble, tiles). I'll update after the 5" trim goes in. Thanks again. This board (when used appropriately) can be a great help.
Oldgreyhair, about testing the wires, the contractor says, "There is no power, so signals, nothing. Whatever it was there is dead." So maybe it is the original intercom or some sort of lobby announcement box -- like if there was a fire in the building. He says he's capping the wires, concealing the box and plastering over it. Maybe I should hide something in there and turn it into a miniature time capsule.
We may never know the answer. . . but something "phone" related may indeed be what is is. If it's not the original doorbell, a few people are suggesting that it may have been the original building intercom.... except it has no buttons or anything to press to respond.
Use the second lock on the front door tonight.
Pretty funny, especially since the cover was attached with tamper-resistant screws.
Do you want to bring the shower out toward the toilet, or extend the shower further back into the wall (and take space from whatever is on the other side)?
If the front edge of the shower is already 7" from the toilet, I'm not sure how you'd bring it any closer -- you need room on either side of the toilet, unless you plan on moving that as well...
If there isn't an easy solution, 30x60 is a perfectly reasonable shower size.
I would have couple of contractors meet with you. They should be able to tell you how big of a job that is, price and time
I think you should consult an engineer for advice.
I am converting a tub to shower in master bath. The current tub was a 30 inch, so the alcove is that depth. I want to extend the shower area so it's at least a 3x5ft area for showering. The shower head would ideally be able to move 3 or 4 inches further away from the wall. There is seven inches from where the tub alcove current ends to where the toilet is. How big of a job is this to widen the alcove? I'm afraid it's going to be too narrow of a shower area once the enclosure is in unless we are able to steal more space for the shower from the rest of the bathroom.
Email me at email@example.com
I have several architects that I work with that should be able to help
Get into your local registered businesses on-line .I got http://www.danteengineering.com from the listed architect and found them to be best engineers.
What's the best resource for finding architects? I have a kitchen gut reno with new entry, and a hallway being converted into storage/office nook. It's a 750 sq ft 1 bedroom apt in a coop.
The design has already been roughed in through renderings.
You should just hire RB's contractor, because there is absolutely no way that anyone will do a floor in Manhattan at anything like those prices, and no contractors are competing for your business these days -- you are lucky to get them to return your calls. 50 cents per square foot would not even cover the cost of buying a sheet of 3/4" tongue and groove subflooring, which costs about $30 per 4x8' sheet.
It is difficult to compare the cost to manually cut and install herringbone flooring -- that is very labor intensive. You might also consider looking at pre-cut herringbone floors. The $14K labor number is very high if it just for the install of a straight floor, but perhaps a little closer to realistic if it includes tearing out and carting the existing floor, removing and preserving casings and moldings, and installing the subfloor, and 3 coats of finish. Even then, $12 sq ft is still rather crazy (and I assume the hardwood area is materially less than 1100 sq ft).
Materials costs will vary widely depending upon species, width, lengths and quality, and depending on whether you are doing the herringbone or something else. Herringbone materials to be cut on site will not be very expensive because they are narrow and short, but there is a lot of waste. For strip or plnk floors, could be $3 sq ft to north of $20 sq ft. Some places to go for higher end (probably $8-$20 sq ft), are LV Floors in the east 20s and Carlisle in the D&D Building. If you drop the herringbone and want wide planks in long lengths, you can try Heritage, part of Riverhead Building Supply on Long Island. We bought our wide plank floor from Hull Forest Products, a mill in Connecticut. Talk to Jon Ramos there -- very helpful and fair prices.
>1. I have replaced a lot of parquet floors with 3.25 inch wide plank maple
congratulations. This is a big accomplishment. When you die, this will be in your eulogy and obituary.
1. I have replaced a lot of parquet floors with 3.25 inch wide plank maple
2. my tenants really like the floor because it is bright and enhances its rooms
3. my last floor about 3 1/2 years ago cost me about $3.50/ft for the floor
4. plus plywood underbase which attaches to the underfloor, probably about 30-50 cents/ft
3. labor was probably about 2-3 dollars/floor
4. lots of people specialize In floors and will compete for your business on price
5. so about 10-11 thousand dollars all inclusive seems like a reasonable budget
6. beware Manhattan contractors
7. many charge 10x or more what a job would cost a knowledgeable owner
I am about to start renovating a postwar 1100 sq ft 2bd/2ba downtown. We would like to replace the floors (currently they are 1950s/60s parquet).
What is a reasonable cost to replace the floors with a herringbone pattern? One contractor we spoke to has quoted us about $20k of labor alone PLUS materials ($14k of labor if we do traditional plank). This cost would be in addition to materials, sound proofing, any asbestos abatement, and replacement of base boards and door casings, etc.
In terms of materials, what is a reasonable estimate of cost? Where is a good place to go for a supplier?
As other posters have suggested, altering this plan in any way would result in a choppy living arrangement and impact future sales.
It's a gracious layout as is. The problem is trying to jam too many people into a space clearly designed for a single or a couple.
What most people in one bedroom layouts like this who have kids is kids go on the bedroom, Mom and Dad sleep on a pullout or murphy bed in the living room.
There have never been more creative options these days for murphy beds in particular. And Carlyle Convertibles is NYC's gold standard for sofa beds with truly comfortable beds built and designed not just for occasional use, but for every day use.
Invest 15k in a Clei hidden queen bed and put it in the LR, let the kids sleep in the BR. Check out resource furniture's website.
I think it's possible. The current bedroom has two windows and can be split. The larger of the two would be able to accommodate a queen bed and would meet the minimum requirements for a legal bedroom. The smaller of the two spaces could fit a twin but wouldn't meet the minimum wall length or floor area requirements to be called a legal bedroom but it probably would for light and air. You would call it a den or study, etc. There would be enough left over for a hallway that's wide enough to be ADA/local law compliant. Then you can use pocket doors to save on clearance. Closet/clothes storage would be a problem but you could make up for it in the living room somewhere.
Obviously, not ideal, and you'd have to restore it to it's original layout for resale, but if you have no other options you can make it work. I've seen it done. Big question is who needs to occupy the second "bedroom" and what age, and have your really exhausted other options? If a jr 4 is even out of your price range maybe there's a better suited 1 bed for this type of thing where the bedroom is larger, etc.
you can change the way you live in the existing layout: kid/kids in the MBR, parents sleep on a pullout in the LR, dining table goes away and everyone eats off a coffee table, desk migrates to the foyer. Not ideal but I've certainly known families that have done it for a couple of years.
Thank you all for the quick replies, I didn't feel like there was a way to make it work but figured it was worth throwing out there in case I was overlooking something