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Thanks for the warning CookLook.
What is with these kitchen renovations with no counter space between the sink and the cooking surface? This leaves no space to prep or stage food next to the stove and is dangerous. Just a drop of water in hot oil can spatter it all over, causing serious burns. I can hardly believe it is legal.
The sad part is that in most of these renovations there is a dishwasher on the other side of the sink that could easily have been placed between the sink and stove providing counter space and a buffer zone for inadvertent splashes.
When I see this in a listed property, I immediately factor in a $25K reduction in price to cover the cost, time and inconvenience of correcting the problem.
You guys should compare with the kitchen reno that New2me did. She did a complete renovation rather than a gut renovation, and her kitchen was a little different sized, 11 x 7.
I was going to reface the cabinets in my kitchen. It would have entailed all new doors with hinges, and new hardware. Cost would have been around 16-18 thousand. The counters are good, and just need polishing. However, I am now going to move, so I am very glad I did nothing!
Lz3 - We recently completed a gut reno to a kitchen (approx. 7 x 12). I have an itemized list of costs for GC, tile, cabinets, etc. I can share with you. Contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org if interested.
P.S. to Lz3 - I think I provided you with the information you were looking for (labor cost); to the extent you were looking for materials cost, the sky is the limit here, but FWIW, we went with ceasarstone, porcelain tile, miele dishwasher, bertazonni range, custom cabinets, Bosch microwave. What I will note here is that we agreed to purchase our materials through our contractor, so I suspect he made some money there which may have affected how much he charged us on the labor; we paid quite a bit for materials and are fine with what we paid though I suspect we could have paid less had we gotten them on our own (but that involves time that we did not have). There is no substitute for getting estimates to get an idea of what your project will cost at the particular moment that you choose to undertake it. Our chosen contractor was not our lowest estimate and was actually the highest (gap between highest and lowest not huge - something like 10%). We ultimately made our choice based on the contractor's references and we are overall very pleased with the result.
Hi Lz3 - Our kitchen is 7x11. We had our contractor break out labor by room separate from materials. We ended up paying $27,600 total in labor for the gut reno of the kitchen. The initial estimate was $20,500, but we changed our mind about a few things along the way, which increased the cost considerably. The cost for the change orders in our case was appropriate because we did not take the time to think through everything we really wanted at the outset; anyone who has renovated will tell you this is hard to do, because once you get going, you think, hmmm - I need more light here. In our case the change orders involved dropping the ceiling to add overhead dimmable LED lights and adding undercabinet LED lights. We also added soundproofing and waterproofing to the floor and requested a labor intensive product for the waterproofing (Laticrete 9235), plus we decided to do more backsplash tiling and added outlets and lightswitches, etc. Hope this info helps; if you want better opinions of what this can/should cost, I recommend searching renovation threads for posts by Primer05, Kylewest, nyc10023 and alanhart. I read all their posts when I was going through the process and found those posts to be quite helpful.
Thank you for the suggestions and information!
Would building permits and architecture fees be included in those estimate or are those separate expenses?
Before you do anything, create your own checklist and try to come up with a ballpark number.
For 1,000 square feet here's my rough guesstimate.
Kitchen (with new appliances)- 30k
Floors - 10K
2 Bathrooms - 16K
Electrical & Plumbing - 8K
New Windows (15) - 6K
New sheet rocks & paint (5k)
75K to start off. Take this number and x it by 1.5. I say the cost is closer to 115-150K for a 1,000 sq feet unit.
Speak to an architect. I would think average $250k for a gut on that size. You could go for a little less and certainly more depending on materials and whether you move walls, rip up floor, etc.
First time on here and I would like to hear some suggestions and ideas.
I would like to know a rough estimate for a total gut renovation on a single family home in Queens (Elmhurst). Roughly 1,000 square feet (1 story brick & basement masonry). Everything needs to be updated!
I also, like to know what steps should I take first. Call a contractor for an estimate? Speak to an architecture? etc..
LAA info (the plumber should know best, since they live and breathe this stuff, but this official page will get you the background):
Thanks very much, semerun. I will make sure the drain stack is the appropriate width before we proceed..
fatrabbit, be very careful- while it is possible your sink could connect to a drain stack at least 3" wide- you have to know for sure. A washing machine puts out a lot of pressure during the draining process- and if you don't have the appropriate width drain stack along with proper ventilation to handle the pressure- you could cause flooding in other apartments.
Thanks, Uptown_Joe, we can connect it to the drain stack from the adjacent sink. I suppose that would be at least 3: wide. Would you please tell me what an LAA application is? Using the plumber sounds like an excellent idea.
You could also try going direct to a plumber; some larger or commercially-focused shops would be able to generate the sketch for management-review purposes, especially if you can provide the floor plan including riser pipe locations.
Filing would technically be required -- all alterations to plumbing count -- but you may be able to do this as an LAA application (which the plumber typically files) rather than an alteration (design professional and expediter, DOB plan review, etc.) since it sounds like it's not part of a larger job.
It ended up taking the contractor 4 mos. to come back and fix the cabinet color, which involved taking all the doors offsite to re-spray and then scheduling frame spraying while we were away (fairly easy since we are away a lot). I have renovated a number of properties in my life and no project has ever come close to how difficult it was to renovate our small (approx 1000 square feet) apartment in NYC. We had an excellent contract and it was still an enormous headache coordinating all the moving parts. I cannot imagine how difficult this would be if you did not have excellent contractor.
Whew! Imagine if your toilet seat were the wrong color. Then what would you do? I can just imagine the thread you'd start here on streeteasy.
Never mind; I had asked contractor to put response in writing and rather than reiteration of our verbal discussion, I just received an e-mail apologizing and promising to fix the problem within the next few weeks. Maybe he reads Streeteasy or maybe he is just living up to his excellent reputation. Either way I am happy and don't blam him for trying the Hail Mary.
Never mind; I had asked contractor to put his response in writing and rather than a reiteration of our conversation, I just received an e-mail that apologized and said that he will fix it within next three weeks. Maybe he reads Streeteasy or maybe he is just living up to his excellent reputation. Either way, I am going to pretend the verbal discussion never occurred. Contractor came to us highly recommended and the work has been generally excellent; I can understand why he tried the Hail Mary.
We ended up putting in new custom kitchen cabinets with a lacquer finish; problem is the lacquer is the wrong color. Contractor is saying he cannot do anything about it and that color cannot be changed. The color is going to be changed even if it involves having the contractor take out ones he just put in and putting in new ones; the mistake is unambiguously his (finish written into contract). Here is my question: Is contractor being honest when he says there is no way to change the color of the lacquer? Why can't he just take doors and spray them elsewhere and then spray the exposed fixture portion of cabinet boxes/bases in the apartment after covering surrounding areas? I can understand why he'd want to say nothing can be done and just pray that we can live with the weird color because I am guessing this is going to be an expensive fix for him, but his is the most bizarre response to a clear mistake I've ever heard -- "Oops, sorry, nothing I can do. Don't you think this color is nice too?" Who says that to anyone, let alone a lawyer?
Visited my in-laws in their apartment with their new Wolf a few weeks ago. My mother-in-law was raving about how much easier it is to make fudge on the Wolf than whatever she has in primary residence. She only cooked one full meal while we were there, and the apartment got uncomfortably hot. She loves it and apparently is not bothered by this, but the rest of us were dying.
What hood is your head in, hoodlum?
>We sold that house post-Sandy but we loved the hood.
What hood was that in?
We installed a Vent-a-Hood ventless hood in a kitchen (with tall ceilings and windows) over a high-end residential range. It looks like it vents to the exterior but instead it has sophisticated filtering. We bought from AJ Madison, which was wonderful to work with. We needed the extender piece because the ceiling is so high. The hood takes filtered cooking air up to the ceiling and vents it into the room. We sold that house post-Sandy but we loved the hood.
I am in contract on a 2br/1bath coop in Queens. I am looking to remodel the bathroom with a sense of budget. The bathroom is about 100sqf. The unit will be vacate during the work. I would be appreciated if anyone can gives me an estimate time and labor. I will provide all new materials.
• Remodel with new tiles (wall and floor), new fxtures (vanity, toilet and standing shower).
• Remove all existing carpets.
• Install new kitchen exhaust fan.
• Replace the counter top in the kitchen.
No one likes to spend their summer indoors making home upgrades and repairs, so before summer arrives, prepare your home for the hot weather, make repairs and freshen up the home so you can fill your summer with fun instead of too much work. Prepare early and enjoy this summer.
Organize your closet
Along with the warm weather comes the urge to put away all of your winter clothes and break out the shorts and flip flops. Instead of just pushing your winter clothes to the back of the closet to make room for your summer wardrobe, take the opportunity to organize and update your closet. Clear everything out and dust the shelves and vacuum the floor. Get rid of clothes you never wear to make room for new additions. Organizing your closet will leave you feeling refreshed and excited about each day.
Make repairs early
Get a head start on repairs and needed maintenance so you do not have to spend your summer working. Allow the spring weather to freshen up your home while you repair any damaged screens and wash the windows. My Home Ideas suggests that window screens be cleaned frequently so nothing but fresh air can flow through your home. Spring is the perfect time to do a walkthrough of your home to see what needs to be fixed and what you can repair before summer arrives, making your summer less stressful and more enjoyable.
Enjoy spring cleaning
When we think about spring cleaning it is completely natural to cringe and put it off. Very few people actually enjoy deep cleaning and organizing their home, but it does not have to be a tedious, miserable job. Nothing feels better than a fresh, clean home, so when you are cleaning keep your thoughts on the finished product instead of the work. Wash all the sheets and linens so your home smells like fresh air. Rid your home of clutter, dust, dirt and everything else that does not belong there. Cleaning might not be fun, but a clean home is refreshing and stress relieving.
Save money on utilities
Before turning on the AC, figure out different ways to cool down your home without costing you a fortune on your utility bills. If you do not have ceiling fans, they are a smart purchase if you want to save money and keep your house cool. Ceiling fans are definitely affordable and pretty easy to install and you will save hundreds of dollars on your electricity bill by using ceiling fans rather than running the air conditioner all day. Let the spring breeze keep your house cool by opening all the windows. If you have windows that the sun beats down through, install reflective film, curtains or roller shades to save you from cranking up the air conditioner in order to keep the house cool. Lastly, make sure your AC unit is energy efficient and working properly to help you save as much as possible.
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Scott Schnall - though he may only do Brooklyn.
Primer05, I passed your info along. Thanks!
Email me at email@example.com
Board may not allow even the architect wants to.
I am friendly with a new shareholder in my building who needs to file and is in a rush to complete the process. I have heard and read in several places that some architects can self certify, which will hasten and economize the process. Can anyone on this board recommend an architect who works this way? Many thanks (and apologies for incorrect vocabulary or other sloppiness due to ignorance.)
Hi there, One of my friend has built a granny flat in an additional space by the builders called granny flat solutions (http://grannyflatsolutions.com.au/). They had done a brilliant job. You can check out if they also do home renovations.
Hi there, One of my friend has built a granny flat in an additional space by the builders called [url=http://grannyflatsolutions.com.au/]granny flat solutions[/url]. They had done a brilliant job. You can check out if they also do home renovations.
Does anyone have a recommendation for contractor for exterior renovation? I want to do brickface, new windows, and awnings on a wrap around terrace.
Okay - Since I'm in no great hurry and the tile work is sound, if not aesthetically pleasing, maybe I can just throw it out there to a few tile guys to see if they might want to take on a small job during a seasonal lull. Thank you for your sharing your professional opinion. You are definitely an asset to this board.
I don't know about that. I think a very good tile can do the job but it will be difficult to find a tile guy who will want it. I think they will have to charge you a lot to come out to do your repair
Thanks Primer. I have been told that it will take several days since it is not a demolition and retiling of a single area but, rather, of a couple of patches. And, obviously, we need someone someone who can do "surgical strikes" and not damage the existing tile if possible. I've been told that I should find someone who specializes in restoration work rather than a "normal" tile person so I don't think that would work. It's not that the tile is so precious or anything, but it is the original and it would be a shame not to fix it now that we can. Any ballpark sense of what it might cost?
That is a very tough question as it might not be an easy task and then to find someone at a reasonable price? Your best bet is to find a contractor that is already working in the building as it really is not worth it for most contractors to come in for a one day project.
We are lucky enough to have a prewar bathroom (circa 1928) that still has all of the original fixtures in place and in wonderful condition. Unfortunately, there are about 40 tiles that had been replaced by a previous owner. The good news is that we have been able to obtain the same vintage tile from a neighbor who just completed a gut renovation.
We would like to restore the bathroom using these vintage tiles which means that we need someone with the talent to carefully remove existing "modern" tile and install the vintage. Does anyone have a suggestion for a tile person with the ability to do this type of restoration at a "fair" price in NYC? Any idea of what a "fair" price might be for this work? Thank you
Hi all, I am renovating the bathroom in my pre-war coop and my contractor wants me to get rid of my flushometer toilet because he thinks it will look too old once renovations are done. (I'm not sure I agree b/c the bathroom is still keeping its "classic" look). Anyhow, we could convert to a tank toilet, but I would rather not as I like the space savings and the strong flush. (And our coop has no rules forcing us to convert. ) But when looking for new flushometer compatible toilets, all I see are commercial models that would fit much better in a Burger King restroom. Does anyone make residential flushometer toilets anymore? Or can I somehow spruce up my existing toilet? (Any equivalent to a "reglazing" that you would do on a tub?)
Don't agree. My broker told me that you should have a tub in a one bedroom apartment, especially a junior 4. You cut out a segment of potential buyers, couples who eventually plan a family.
Couples buy these apartments when starting out, figuring they can convert the dining area to a nursery for a couple of years. Showers don't normally work for toddlers and preschoolers.
Children are dirty, and spread diseases. Parents often need a place to soak them in sodium hypochlorite or pyrethrins or the like.
Incidentally, children also offer little in the way of amusing conversation at table, but that would be a matter for posts filed under Dining.
In a one bedroom where potential buyers are less likely to have children, a walk in shower is highly desirable although some people would prefer a tub. In a two bedroom a tub is more essential since you can't "shower" young children. That is my problem. I would love to get rid of the tub/shower combination and put in a large rain shower but in a two bedroom that is a big risk even if I have no plans to sell.
The walk in shower will be much more attractive.
Does anyone have good experience in a vendor to install a range hood that vents out externally? The structure is there, we just want to replace the existing range hood prior to moving in.
Several factors may impact your total cost including the condition of the electrical (and the potential need to replace your electrical panel or increase the service to the residence), selected finishes, and if the building imposes a time constraint on the length of a project.
I advise you start your research by viewing kitchens on websites such as Houzz. Having a set of precedent images will greatly help you explain your expectations to a potential architect/designer/general contractor.
We've completed the same project type, and some images may be found on our website - www.hirshsondesign.com. Feel free to contact us if you'd like to discuss the design and renovation project - firstname.lastname@example.org.
Best of luck with your renovation!
We performed a gut renovation on a classic six on 5th Avenue. Happy to refer the architect or others to you. Good luck,
We are a design firm teamed with architects and can help with the project. Please feel free to reach out.
Just bought a classic six. In good shape but an awkward floor plan with narrow galley kitchen and pantry that wraps around maids room. I'd like to open up the maid's to make for a larger third bedroom in what is now the dining room. Any sense of what this will cost? Or recommendations for architects.
Hi All. Anyone have a recommendation for exterior work on terrace?
No, there was no carpet. Unfortunately they are denying responsibility saying the fridge leaked and they couldn't have prevented it. I understand that my fridge leaking isn't their fault, but they should've put something protective down when moving the fridge to the parquet floor.
Was this flooring 80% carpeted?
Most good contractors will take responsibility. Give them a chance and see what they say
I recently had new floors installed in my kitchen. The floors look great, but the installers damaged the adjacent parquet flooring in the process. I think when they moved the fridge, it leaked onto the floors below. My parquet floors were in perfect condition beforehand. They are coming to look at the damage, but I am afraid they will deny responsibility. What can I do here?
This is a problem in terms of getting your hands, or anything else, under the stream of running water.
I purchased a lacava cigno wall mount basin faucet (1514) which has a spout length of 6-7/8. The integrated sink it is going to go with has a back counter depth of 5-1/2. Meaning the spout would only have clearance from the counter over the sink of 1-3/8. The spout is pretty mic vertical going down... Is that to narrow a distance? The sink itself is 11" deep and the counter is 18" deep total.
If you do mean two apartments, not two bedrooms, e-mail me for some referrals. We have done several jobs like this. Good luck.
In case you wanted to contact me, please note I had a typo. The correct address is email@example.com.
We had a stunning prewar gut reno done. Architect was extremely helpful in managing the entire process too. Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org for contact information.
Do not ruin the space by adding loft bedrooms. You will get 5 foot ceiling in the bedroom at best if you leave 6.5 foot lower floor making both areas somewhat useless.
Hi. We are architects and engineers and are currently working on 3 loft conversions which we would happily show you. Please feel free to contact me: Andres. www.agenciegroup.com, email@example.com
I'm in the same boat. Not sure how much it would cost but if you find out let me know..lol
has anyone done a loft conversion of a loft with 12 foot ceilings?
I have seen it done ( with 2 lofted bedrooms) and the bottom main floor is a really big open living room / kitchen dining area.
How much have these kind of conversions cost and can somebody recommend a contractor / architect?