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The thanks for your replies. The rectangular box is about 1750 sqft, with the open plan living/dining /kitchen area about 60-70% of that box and the rest divvied as new bedrooms and baths. The ceiling is mostly flat, dropped version intended to be proper sheetrock, though at one end it slopes and my plan is to ask them to follow the slope in order to minimize loss of ceiling height.
My bad, I misread the " as '. I think 10'4 is an ok ceiling height, and if the overall proportions of the room are reasonable, it becomes about the increased value of what's above the ceiling. If you now have central air, well place recessed lighting, and a rational ceiling plan (maybe a flat surface rather than a hash of random sized beams and soffits), then I'd say do it. When you say 'drop the ceiling' I'm assuming a proper sheetrock or plaster surface, not acoustic tile in a suspended grid, which is unsuitable for anything residential. If you're covering over a good ceiling (original moldings, beams, etc.,) and not getting something in return (a/c), forget it.
If your ceilings are only 11 feet high, you don't live in a "loft"; you live in an "apartment".
Soffit against a wall
I stick to my guns--if you do it you devalue the place for resale, and you asked about resale. A compromise I would do is to put in a dropped ceiling that could be cheaply removed by mere painters, if you can stand the look of those kinds of ceilings (suspended/acoustic). The newest ones are better, seriously, than those of 20 years ago.
One more thing---how big are the rooms or room? If the loft is small (people call all kinds of things lofts) then the impact of a lower ceiling is probably greater in terms of how big the area feels.
"With the films, you want to make sure that you can still look out when it gets dark outside but the inside of your apartment is lit."
The shading of my film is so subtle that this isn't an issue.
With the films, you want to make sure that you can still look out when it gets dark outside but the inside of your apartment is lit.
The film lasts forever. I'm able to wash with Windex as usual.
NYCMatt, you said you've had for 8 years. Is there a finite shelf-life for the film? How do you wash your windows?
FYI, to those who were interested, Noerdlinger is out http://observer.com/2014/11/al-sharpton-fully-behind-bill-de-blasio-aides-leave-of-absence/
I hope this problem, like Ebola, is now behind us.
Wow, NextEra, thank you so much for writing - and for such helpful tips. Not too late at all, as I'm a couple of weeks away from the installation of the 5" trim. It seems that it's not absolutely universal that these powerful ranges all produce condensation. So far in this thread, you've experienced it but sp21 hasn't, although my gut tells me that more folks will have condensation. If I still have condensation after installation of the 5" trim, I won't mind if it dissipates before it drips down behind the range. And I agree that the Wolf range really is a beautiful machine. I also have the French Door Subzero which is also pretty stunning, so I don't think that the beauty will be diminished by the 5" trim. I'm much more concerned with issues of function and maintenance now that I've (mostly) survived a long and painful renovation. Thanks again; it was very kind of you to take the time to provide all that info.
I hope my comment isn't too late to be useful. I have a Wolf 30" gas range with the 5" riser trim. I've had it for a year and I bought it with the 5" trim to begin with. I do, indeed, see some condensation when I turn on the oven which was not the case with the Dacor that my Wolf replaced. While most of my kitchen backsplash is honed marble to match my counter tops, due to the fact that splatters and grease are unfriendly to honed marble, I decided to put a stack of highly polished ceramic tile behind my new range (it's a vertical stack of large 30" wide Porcelanosa tiles in a shade of white that matches the white of the carrara marble). I've absolutely noticed the moisture, but it's slight and around the time when the oven comes to full temperature, it dissipates. Also, it never gathers so much that the moisture drips down. It just evaporates. And in far less time than 20 minutes.
I cook dinner almost every night, bake and roast, and cook often for friends on weekends and I LOVE this range. The oven is superb and steady, the broiler is really powerful yet still even, and the burners can be very fine-tuned due to the lower simmer settings.
One tip I was given and I pass it along to you: while your range is still under its service warranty, don't hesitate to have the service guys come and fine-tune the range. I mean, after all -- you've bought a very powerful and elegant machine. Apparently the computer board that is in this new model has had some problems so I already had it replaced after the broiler had two episodes of shutting off on its own; my service guy said it was an early sign that I'd have to replace the board so we did it before there was a bigger problem. I also had the service guy give me tips on using and cleaning the burners (he told me that if you call the Wolf service 800 number they can email you a document with tips and product recommendations for cleaning; I called and the document is really helpful). Also, the thin, removable trim strips that are between the range top and the stainless collar can discolor to a slightly dark red-purple color (this happened to me after I spent a Saturday afternoon canning tomatoes and had one of the burners on for about an hour); Wolf knows about this problem and said they are working on it. If it happens to you, you should call the 800 number and see if they have replacement pieces yet.
Mostly you should use the range often and happily. Bake a pie, broil a steak, roast some carrots, saute some mushrooms. I found it helped me be a better cook because you get so much more control than with other stoves. I hope it does the same for you.
As for how the 5" trim looks, I now like it better than island trim. The range is so darn gorgeous and performs so well that you'll get used to it having a bit of a higher back. Good luck with it and use it often!
Flutistic, Flarf and sp21, many thanks for your help. I think that my best bet will be to try the 5" trim. I will follow up with Wolf/Subzero to complain that this issue is nowhere to be found in their materials - and certainly should be disclosed. According to the 3 or 4 folks that I spoke to there, they are aware of it. I'll avoid calling it a "design defect," given that they label it an "island" trim, at a minimum they should advise purchasers or dealer that if the installation is against a wall, the "Island" trim may have issues. If you look at the website, all of their marketing photos with the range against a wall use the "Island" trim. And certainly if they're aware of the issue, it would be helpful if they could advise of which backsplash materials will help mitigate the issue (I might not have cared had the condensation appeared on glass, rather than marble, tiles). I'll update after the 5" trim goes in. Thanks again. This board (when used appropriately) can be a great help.
Oldgreyhair, about testing the wires, the contractor says, "There is no power, so signals, nothing. Whatever it was there is dead." So maybe it is the original intercom or some sort of lobby announcement box -- like if there was a fire in the building. He says he's capping the wires, concealing the box and plastering over it. Maybe I should hide something in there and turn it into a miniature time capsule.
We may never know the answer. . . but something "phone" related may indeed be what is is. If it's not the original doorbell, a few people are suggesting that it may have been the original building intercom.... except it has no buttons or anything to press to respond.
Use the second lock on the front door tonight.
Pretty funny, especially since the cover was attached with tamper-resistant screws.
Do you want to bring the shower out toward the toilet, or extend the shower further back into the wall (and take space from whatever is on the other side)?
If the front edge of the shower is already 7" from the toilet, I'm not sure how you'd bring it any closer -- you need room on either side of the toilet, unless you plan on moving that as well...
If there isn't an easy solution, 30x60 is a perfectly reasonable shower size.
I would have couple of contractors meet with you. They should be able to tell you how big of a job that is, price and time
I think you should consult an engineer for advice.
I am converting a tub to shower in master bath. The current tub was a 30 inch, so the alcove is that depth. I want to extend the shower area so it's at least a 3x5ft area for showering. The shower head would ideally be able to move 3 or 4 inches further away from the wall. There is seven inches from where the tub alcove current ends to where the toilet is. How big of a job is this to widen the alcove? I'm afraid it's going to be too narrow of a shower area once the enclosure is in unless we are able to steal more space for the shower from the rest of the bathroom.
Email me at email@example.com
I have several architects that I work with that should be able to help
Get into your local registered businesses on-line .I got http://www.danteengineering.com from the listed architect and found them to be best engineers.
What's the best resource for finding architects? I have a kitchen gut reno with new entry, and a hallway being converted into storage/office nook. It's a 750 sq ft 1 bedroom apt in a coop.
The design has already been roughed in through renderings.
You should just hire RB's contractor, because there is absolutely no way that anyone will do a floor in Manhattan at anything like those prices, and no contractors are competing for your business these days -- you are lucky to get them to return your calls. 50 cents per square foot would not even cover the cost of buying a sheet of 3/4" tongue and groove subflooring, which costs about $30 per 4x8' sheet.
It is difficult to compare the cost to manually cut and install herringbone flooring -- that is very labor intensive. You might also consider looking at pre-cut herringbone floors. The $14K labor number is very high if it just for the install of a straight floor, but perhaps a little closer to realistic if it includes tearing out and carting the existing floor, removing and preserving casings and moldings, and installing the subfloor, and 3 coats of finish. Even then, $12 sq ft is still rather crazy (and I assume the hardwood area is materially less than 1100 sq ft).
Materials costs will vary widely depending upon species, width, lengths and quality, and depending on whether you are doing the herringbone or something else. Herringbone materials to be cut on site will not be very expensive because they are narrow and short, but there is a lot of waste. For strip or plnk floors, could be $3 sq ft to north of $20 sq ft. Some places to go for higher end (probably $8-$20 sq ft), are LV Floors in the east 20s and Carlisle in the D&D Building. If you drop the herringbone and want wide planks in long lengths, you can try Heritage, part of Riverhead Building Supply on Long Island. We bought our wide plank floor from Hull Forest Products, a mill in Connecticut. Talk to Jon Ramos there -- very helpful and fair prices.
>1. I have replaced a lot of parquet floors with 3.25 inch wide plank maple
congratulations. This is a big accomplishment. When you die, this will be in your eulogy and obituary.
1. I have replaced a lot of parquet floors with 3.25 inch wide plank maple
2. my tenants really like the floor because it is bright and enhances its rooms
3. my last floor about 3 1/2 years ago cost me about $3.50/ft for the floor
4. plus plywood underbase which attaches to the underfloor, probably about 30-50 cents/ft
3. labor was probably about 2-3 dollars/floor
4. lots of people specialize In floors and will compete for your business on price
5. so about 10-11 thousand dollars all inclusive seems like a reasonable budget
6. beware Manhattan contractors
7. many charge 10x or more what a job would cost a knowledgeable owner
I am about to start renovating a postwar 1100 sq ft 2bd/2ba downtown. We would like to replace the floors (currently they are 1950s/60s parquet).
What is a reasonable cost to replace the floors with a herringbone pattern? One contractor we spoke to has quoted us about $20k of labor alone PLUS materials ($14k of labor if we do traditional plank). This cost would be in addition to materials, sound proofing, any asbestos abatement, and replacement of base boards and door casings, etc.
In terms of materials, what is a reasonable estimate of cost? Where is a good place to go for a supplier?
As other posters have suggested, altering this plan in any way would result in a choppy living arrangement and impact future sales.
It's a gracious layout as is. The problem is trying to jam too many people into a space clearly designed for a single or a couple.
What most people in one bedroom layouts like this who have kids is kids go on the bedroom, Mom and Dad sleep on a pullout or murphy bed in the living room.
There have never been more creative options these days for murphy beds in particular. And Carlyle Convertibles is NYC's gold standard for sofa beds with truly comfortable beds built and designed not just for occasional use, but for every day use.
Invest 15k in a Clei hidden queen bed and put it in the LR, let the kids sleep in the BR. Check out resource furniture's website.
I think it's possible. The current bedroom has two windows and can be split. The larger of the two would be able to accommodate a queen bed and would meet the minimum requirements for a legal bedroom. The smaller of the two spaces could fit a twin but wouldn't meet the minimum wall length or floor area requirements to be called a legal bedroom but it probably would for light and air. You would call it a den or study, etc. There would be enough left over for a hallway that's wide enough to be ADA/local law compliant. Then you can use pocket doors to save on clearance. Closet/clothes storage would be a problem but you could make up for it in the living room somewhere.
Obviously, not ideal, and you'd have to restore it to it's original layout for resale, but if you have no other options you can make it work. I've seen it done. Big question is who needs to occupy the second "bedroom" and what age, and have your really exhausted other options? If a jr 4 is even out of your price range maybe there's a better suited 1 bed for this type of thing where the bedroom is larger, etc.
you can change the way you live in the existing layout: kid/kids in the MBR, parents sleep on a pullout in the LR, dining table goes away and everyone eats off a coffee table, desk migrates to the foyer. Not ideal but I've certainly known families that have done it for a couple of years.
Thank you all for the quick replies, I didn't feel like there was a way to make it work but figured it was worth throwing out there in case I was overlooking something
I know. just didn't want you to think I forgot about you. If you are in the city tomorrow I will be at the site that you could shoot at 10am.
Email me. firstname.lastname@example.org
I was just busting your chops bud. Call when you're ready.
Sorry I do not
Almost ready for you. Will call you next week.
Primer, off topic but do you have any recos for a plasterer/installer to install both a flat screen (60 inch) and 71 inch wide electric fireplace (flat screen over the fireplace) in a hardcore pre-war wall (obviously hiding the wires, etc.)? Many thanks!
Whew! Imagine if your toilet seat were the wrong color. Then what would you do? I can just imagine the thread you'd start here on streeteasy.
Never mind; I had asked contractor to put response in writing and rather than reiteration of our verbal discussion, I just received an e-mail apologizing and promising to fix the problem within the next few weeks. Maybe he reads Streeteasy or maybe he is just living up to his excellent reputation. Either way I am happy and don't blam him for trying the Hail Mary.
Never mind; I had asked contractor to put his response in writing and rather than a reiteration of our conversation, I just received an e-mail that apologized and said that he will fix it within next three weeks. Maybe he reads Streeteasy or maybe he is just living up to his excellent reputation. Either way, I am going to pretend the verbal discussion never occurred. Contractor came to us highly recommended and the work has been generally excellent; I can understand why he tried the Hail Mary.
We ended up putting in new custom kitchen cabinets with a lacquer finish; problem is the lacquer is the wrong color. Contractor is saying he cannot do anything about it and that color cannot be changed. The color is going to be changed even if it involves having the contractor take out ones he just put in and putting in new ones; the mistake is unambiguously his (finish written into contract). Here is my question: Is contractor being honest when he says there is no way to change the color of the lacquer? Why can't he just take doors and spray them elsewhere and then spray the exposed fixture portion of cabinet boxes/bases in the apartment after covering surrounding areas? I can understand why he'd want to say nothing can be done and just pray that we can live with the weird color because I am guessing this is going to be an expensive fix for him, but his is the most bizarre response to a clear mistake I've ever heard -- "Oops, sorry, nothing I can do. Don't you think this color is nice too?" Who says that to anyone, let alone a lawyer?
Zippy:take them to an auto body shop for a quote.
30k PLUS cost of floor, for some reason I cannot add the plus sign
meant to 30k cost of floor
I am about to start renovating a postwar 1100 sq ft 2bd/2ba downtown. My goal is to try to add character without going over the top inappropriate given the building's actual age. One idea we have been throwing around is to replace the floors (currently they are 1950s/60s parquet).
What is a reasonable cost to replace the floors with a herringbone pattern? We already have a contractor on board (floors were not part of our original scope but now they might be) who says it will be about $20k of labor alone PLUS materials ($14k of labor if we do traditional plank). This seems like a lot since we would have to add materials (how much would that be?), plus other added costs such as replacement of base boards and door casings, etc.
Also, does anyone have a recommendation for a materials supplier? Contractor recommends prefinished flooring. Is this a bad idea? What is the real cost savings with prefinished over traditional hardwood that can be sanded and stained? Does it look tacky? I hate hate hate laminate... which I realize is different than prefab, but I would be sad to have a prefab floor look remotely like laminate when this is all said and done.
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you so much!
Paintzen, free binding estimate, work not high end but not bad either.
I forgot the d. As is aboutready.
I have a great guy. He's a bit slow but very inexpensive and does a great job. E-mail me at email@example.com.
No board issues?
It is about 1100 square feet. Walls are fine. About how much to paint the walls, ceiling and trim? I have no idea. Any good painter recs?
Thanks for sharing..
Oops -- I forgot to add Thanks, Riversider ,for recommending Drimmers, too.
ph41, I decided after all the reviews here and elsewhere to take your advice and go with Drimmers . I called your guy Isaac. He's terrific. So friendly, knowledgable and gave great discounts. He explained that Drimmers doesn't outsource delivery to trucking companies, so if things ever arrive damaged, they take responsibility -- not like other stores where you have to fight Customer Service. He said, "Drimmers has no separate customer service dept. We ARE customer service." So let's see what happens . . . but so far, I'm very impressed. I was also impressed with AJ Madison, for the record, but that was with the sales dept and the bad reviews for everything BUT sales scared me off.
Maybe Aboutready has some ideas. She renovated her Peter Cooper Village apartment because it wasn't good enough for her, but she still had to bide her time there in order to be eligible to sue them.
I'm guessing Miele and other big names are going with some sort of 'broker' model where any dealer that sells it gets a commission but that its actually Miele that is setting the price, this way the price is controlled at all times that everybody pays.
Hello - I need to renovate one floor of our brownstone in Jersey City. Hoping to transition from a studio apartment to a bedroom/office. I'm looking for someone who can help me consider options for the space. Any referrals? Thanks!
I just used this guy to take down six old fixtures and put up six new ones and it was $375 and he was super fast, nice and accommodated my weird schedule. Electric Plus / Gerald - 917.279.8501
Any feedback on estimated costs for the following:
Changing an existing ceiling light fixture
Changing an existing ceiling light fixture to a ceiling fan
Changing a light switch to a dimmer
Owner to provide supplies (dimmers and light fixtures)
The unit is newly wired.
Paul at Lidmar Electrical has been very good. He upgraded our entire apartment, (new outlets, recessed lights, moved the box up to the unit, etc). Very satisfied with him. During the job other things came up, (we wanted an induction stove, needed more juice) he was very accommodating. He is licensed/insured and highly recommended by others. Number is 917 939 4956
I used this guy for many of the same things you are looking to have done and I live in Brooklyn Heights:
Spotlight Electric, LLC | Jaroslaw Choinski, President | 243 McDonald Ave #6T | Brooklyn, NY 11218
t: 718.666.5303 • f: 321.600.5303 • e: firstname.lastname@example.org
I was very happy with his work and his prices were reasonable.
For a loft with 11' ceilings, is it a bad idea to drop the ceiling ~ 8" to allow for a cleaner more concealed look (hide electrical / HVAC / etc). The ceiling does not have any distinguishing features (ie wood beams etc) - it is raw concrete.
>they are not high end but they aren't awful, either.
Sounds like the Ready family
Get a binding estimate here:
We were satisfied with their work, they are not high end but they aren't awful, either.
Was quoted $3250 in Brooklyn for a one bedroom with office alcove -just walls (no ceilings / moldings / closets as the walls are new construction)
When I moved in, I paid over 10K for a licensed contractor with insurance to paint my very large 1 bedroom, not including the kitchen and bathroom. I had to pay the building $250 for permission to paint and put up a $5,000 bond against damages. The contractor was required to carry 1 million insurance.
The place needed extensive wall repairs, including removing wallpaper from one wall. Some of the trivial looking cracks turned out to be masking craters. Everything, including the ceilings, was skim coated also. He had to use 2 coats of primer in some places. He also did 2 coats of paint. Everything was done with Benjamin Moore 's Select paint (more than $50/gallon if you bought it yourself at Janovic's). Most days 4 men were working on this and it took took several weeks since it was not empty.
The only thing the former owners had done to the apartment in 30 years was to replace the appliances - and that was 20 years ago from the receipts I found buried in a kitchen drawer. They did a token paint job to clean the place up for the sale.
Just wanted to share that I got a quote for $10K painting job for one bedroom similar to your size. Here is exactly what these guys said... Can someone PLEASE recommend a quality painter at reasonable cost?
Living Room, Dining Room and Bedroom – preparation and painting of those areas (Ceiling, walls and baseboards/molding)….assuming you want the cabinets in LR as well.
Your xxx room would require 3 coats of paint to cover the dark color (unless you are still doing a dark color).
This price includes Benjamin Moore Paint, but does not include any skim coating to walls. Minor Preparation (sanding, caulking) is included.
Approx. $9,800 plus 8.875% tax ($869.75).
The beauty of the flush-o-meter is that you're not limited to just 3.5 gallons per flush; you can just hold down that lever and just let it rip until that bowl is gleaming!!
Argh - Preventing your closing? I could see them compelling the buyers to do something but the sellers? I know that my building is very energy efficiency aware (maybe some sort of tax credit when you meet a certain standard?) but they don't compel shareholders to purchase Energy Star rated appliances.
Good luck with the closing! Hope that this all turns out to be just a bump in the road for you.
I would be very careful. I am trying to sell a co-op unit, we have a closing date scheduled for this month, and the co-op board is suddenly preventing the sale because we do not have a low-water-use toilet, 1.6 gpf (also we lack Energy Star appliances).
This seems to be driven by NYC building codes, it's not something the co-op dreamed up, based on my very preliminary emergency research. It depends on the size of your building how stringent the phase in of the rules are.
The EPA says old flush o meters use 3.5 gpf, but some new ones are out that are even more efficient than the best tanks.
SO I would make sure it's low water use, whatever you do.
****DO NOT EVER REPLACE YOUR FLUSHOMETER!!!!!*****
If you do, you will regret it bitterly every waking day of your life.
Too much toilet talk on Streeteasy.
Looking for a good NY architecture company seasoned with landmarked buildings to avaluate small EV buiding. ASAP
We have an accepted offer for a 2400 sq foot loft in Tribeca that is basically a gut. Unfortunately we have to move the kitchen and redo 2.5 bathrooms. among other things. I think we have a realistic budget of about 300 per square foot. One of the things I have read is the recommendation to use an architect to come up with very detailed plans so you get realistic bids. The loft is one of those floor throughs with wood beams. We are looking for an architect who could both enhance the industrial quality but bring in some great design elements to make it feel modern. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated