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We are lucky enough to have a prewar bathroom (circa 1928) that still has all of the original fixtures in place and in wonderful condition. Unfortunately, there are about 40 tiles that had been replaced by a previous owner. The good news is that we have been able to obtain the same vintage tile from a neighbor who just completed a gut renovation.
We would like to restore the bathroom using these vintage tiles which means that we need someone with the talent to carefully remove existing "modern" tile and install the vintage. Does anyone have a suggestion for a tile person with the ability to do this type of restoration at a "fair" price in NYC? Any idea of what a "fair" price might be for this work? Thank you
Don't agree. My broker told me that you should have a tub in a one bedroom apartment, especially a junior 4. You cut out a segment of potential buyers, couples who eventually plan a family.
Couples buy these apartments when starting out, figuring they can convert the dining area to a nursery for a couple of years. Showers don't normally work for toddlers and preschoolers.
Children are dirty, and spread diseases. Parents often need a place to soak them in sodium hypochlorite or pyrethrins or the like.
Incidentally, children also offer little in the way of amusing conversation at table, but that would be a matter for posts filed under Dining.
In a one bedroom where potential buyers are less likely to have children, a walk in shower is highly desirable although some people would prefer a tub. In a two bedroom a tub is more essential since you can't "shower" young children. That is my problem. I would love to get rid of the tub/shower combination and put in a large rain shower but in a two bedroom that is a big risk even if I have no plans to sell.
The walk in shower will be much more attractive.
Does anyone have good experience in a vendor to install a range hood that vents out externally? The structure is there, we just want to replace the existing range hood prior to moving in.
Several factors may impact your total cost including the condition of the electrical (and the potential need to replace your electrical panel or increase the service to the residence), selected finishes, and if the building imposes a time constraint on the length of a project.
I advise you start your research by viewing kitchens on websites such as Houzz. Having a set of precedent images will greatly help you explain your expectations to a potential architect/designer/general contractor.
We've completed the same project type, and some images may be found on our website - www.hirshsondesign.com. Feel free to contact us if you'd like to discuss the design and renovation project - firstname.lastname@example.org.
Best of luck with your renovation!
We performed a gut renovation on a classic six on 5th Avenue. Happy to refer the architect or others to you. Good luck,
We are a design firm teamed with architects and can help with the project. Please feel free to reach out.
Just bought a classic six. In good shape but an awkward floor plan with narrow galley kitchen and pantry that wraps around maids room. I'd like to open up the maid's to make for a larger third bedroom in what is now the dining room. Any sense of what this will cost? Or recommendations for architects.
Hi All. Anyone have a recommendation for exterior work on terrace?
No, there was no carpet. Unfortunately they are denying responsibility saying the fridge leaked and they couldn't have prevented it. I understand that my fridge leaking isn't their fault, but they should've put something protective down when moving the fridge to the parquet floor.
Was this flooring 80% carpeted?
Most good contractors will take responsibility. Give them a chance and see what they say
I recently had new floors installed in my kitchen. The floors look great, but the installers damaged the adjacent parquet flooring in the process. I think when they moved the fridge, it leaked onto the floors below. My parquet floors were in perfect condition beforehand. They are coming to look at the damage, but I am afraid they will deny responsibility. What can I do here?
This is a problem in terms of getting your hands, or anything else, under the stream of running water.
I purchased a lacava cigno wall mount basin faucet (1514) which has a spout length of 6-7/8. The integrated sink it is going to go with has a back counter depth of 5-1/2. Meaning the spout would only have clearance from the counter over the sink of 1-3/8. The spout is pretty mic vertical going down... Is that to narrow a distance? The sink itself is 11" deep and the counter is 18" deep total.
If you do mean two apartments, not two bedrooms, e-mail me for some referrals. We have done several jobs like this. Good luck.
In case you wanted to contact me, please note I had a typo. The correct address is email@example.com.
We had a stunning prewar gut reno done. Architect was extremely helpful in managing the entire process too. Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org for contact information.
Do not ruin the space by adding loft bedrooms. You will get 5 foot ceiling in the bedroom at best if you leave 6.5 foot lower floor making both areas somewhat useless.
Hi. We are architects and engineers and are currently working on 3 loft conversions which we would happily show you. Please feel free to contact me: Andres. www.agenciegroup.com, email@example.com
I'm in the same boat. Not sure how much it would cost but if you find out let me know..lol
has anyone done a loft conversion of a loft with 12 foot ceilings?
I have seen it done ( with 2 lofted bedrooms) and the bottom main floor is a really big open living room / kitchen dining area.
How much have these kind of conversions cost and can somebody recommend a contractor / architect?
Sorry, that URL for Quieting in the Home was too long. Try this one:
Remember that you there is no universal solution to sound proofing. There are different products for different types of noise, based on the decibel rating. See the following URL for the EPA document "Quieting in the Home".
http://nepis.epa.gov/Exe/ZyNET.exe/9101AJ9Q.TXT?ZyActionD=ZyDocument&Client=EPA&Index=1976 Thru 1980&Docs=&Query=&Time=&EndTime=&SearchMethod=1&TocRestrict=n&Toc=&TocEntry=&QField=&QFieldYear=&QFieldMonth=&QFieldDay=&IntQFieldOp=0&ExtQFieldOp=0&XmlQuery=&File=D:\zyfiles\Index Data\76thru80\Txt\00000026\9101AJ9Q.txt&User=ANONYMOUS&Password=anonymous&SortMethod=h|-&MaximumDocuments=1&FuzzyDegree=0&ImageQuality=r75g8/r75g8/x150y150g16/i425&Display=p|f&DefSeekPage=x&SearchBack=ZyActionL&Back=ZyActionS&BackDesc=Results page&MaximumPages=1&ZyEntry=1&SeekPage=x&ZyPURL
Bertog – Did it work? Who did you use? Where did you purchase it?
I did speak with the vendor/salesperson regarding the product. He indicated that the product was easy to use… a DIY type project. I am having the handyman in my building do it. He’s very good and knowledgeable, but has never worked with this product or even heard of it until I proposed it as a solution for the elevator noise/vibration that passes through a common wall. He went to the vendor’s website and doesn’t think it will be a problem. (He’s worked with other foam insulation.) He also said to order it online, $145 shipping. He didn't know of any distributors in the metro area.
Has anyone else heard of or used this product.
I have actually specified commercial series of Tiger Foam for sound insulation of a ceiling within a Co-Op parking garage. I would recommend that you speak with a Tiger Foam distributor to determine the correct formula for your requirements.
As always, make sure that you have an experienced vendor install the system. Installation quality will make-or-break the sound attenuation properties.
I beleive it is a Canadian product. It is a closed cell slow rising foam insulation.
Does anyone have a recommendation for contractor for exterior renovation? I want to do brickface, new windows, and awnings on a wrap around terrace.
My sister (who is an architect) recently purchased a 2-family townhouse in Bed-Stuy and is going through the exact same thing right now trying to squeeze an ambitious renovation into a relatively modest budget. I'd be happy to put you guys in touch if you want to get some advice. Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
You are right that this is a very tight budget in the world of full gut renovations. If you focus the dollars on kitchens, bathrooms, and targetted electrical and hvac improvements you may be able to pull it off. I'd suggest moving away from the full gut concept and approaching it more as strategic interventions to stay within budget. A more reasonable, albeit modest, budget for a full gut would be in the $200psf range.
I am bidding on a 3,200 sqft 2-family townhouse in Bedford Stuyvesant. Like many properties in this area, the house needs a complete renovation.
I have a budget of $400k which I know is in the very low end for Brooklyn.
Obviously, I am not aiming for a high end renovation, but my goals are:
- make the house move-in ready for 2 families
- save as much original features as possible
- make sure the bones and structure are done properly (e.g. electric, plumbing, roof, beams etc.)
Is it feasible or completely delusional??? How long would it take?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Separate demo drawing? I guess this is not an apartment renovation. If it was filed weeks ago, it should show up on the system already.
I should add, since the permits had not yet been pulled, my understanding was that only the current approved application is in our old architect's name, but the actual permits will be transferred over to the name/insurance of the company who actually pulls them (in this case, our contractor). What the expeditor told us is that they said they needed 4 copies of our demo plan filed. So we had those plans filed (by architect #2), but that was weeks ago and they are still not showing up as filed when I look up the application online.
We had not planned on hiring another architect, but planned on continuing with just our contractor, and have an expeditor we can pay as needed. Is it likely that the architect would choose to close out our permits if they're no longer working when the client? Is that typically something they would do? We technically don't have an expeditor working with us either. We had one just run over to pull the permits, but we haven't technically employed him.
f1champ, do you mind sharing the details of the architect? the 200k is pretty inexpensive, after what I paid for mine.
We got a 1240 sq ft 2 bd 2 bath coop apartment renovated in UES (mid 2014) and got estimates ranging from 35k to 65k but ended costing 80k.
Kitchen and 1 bath were untouched.
Added a 3rd bedroom pressurized wall (not sure how legal that is) in dining alcove, repainting, added recessed lighting things on 2 bedrooms and living room and removed a closet and expanded another closet. The master bath was a pain as it required some-like replacing the riser (marble on floor but just paint on walls, replaced tub with shower and mostly ikea cabinetry and kohler fittings. Placed parquet floors with prestained oaks and wood paneling below.
My boss went crazy high end full gut (subzero fridge, some german stove, marble on bathrooms, some high end kitchen cabinets, etc) with a prominent architect and paid 200k for a 1350 sq ft apartment on Madison Ave/60's, so i will be very surprised you guy for a 725 sq ft will be 150k (of course going high end can go as high as possible)
My co-op renovation experience was straightforward, had no problems with the board, neighbors, etc. My extended time period was mostly due to my own delays in getting an architect, and the contractor's availability -- there certainly wasn't 10 months of dust filtering through the hallways. The building approved the renovation about 2 weeks after we submitted the architects paperwork -- no problems, no delays. The building I'm in has firm rules about how renovations are to be done (notification of neighbors, work hours, hallway protection & cleaning, elevator usage, etc.), which minimizes disruption to neighbors and protects the building, and I'm happy for that -- it protects my sanity and investment. My reno included needing to break through the floor to replace plumbing -- building management helped coordinate w/ the downstairs neighbor to access their unit and they were fine with the minor disruption. A little while after I moved in the neighbors down the hall did a gut reno on their 2br unit -- by the time I came home each evening, you couldn't tell that there had been workers on the floor. There's a reason it's called a 'co-operative'. "Tensions arise" not because of the inherent nature of the property -- they arise because of the interations of people.
We went thru a 3br 3 bath co-op reno. Two things I would have done first...If you know what walls will be coming down if you want to take out the old wood floor and put in a new one, get someone in to test for asbestos. This will allow you to decide what to do. If you have asbestos, it changes cost a great deal. Next, get an electrical load letter (about $300-$400). The electrician will be able to tell you whether your planned/existing appliances meet building code/requirements. This could change the plans for your layout/appliances. Once your architect starts drawing plans, each change will cost you $'s. So as much as possible know what you would like done.
>What are our options as far as enforcing the ruling?
Call the DCA and let them know. I would think they will help you, is the contractor still licensed?
He's in contempt of court. Go back to the court.
Greetings, we filed a complaint against our GC for incomplete work and the judge ruled in our favor and fined the GC. The GC had 30 days to us but did not do so. What are our options as far as enforcing the ruling? Thanks.
I like the way everyone didn't answer this guy's question but told him to do what he basically doesn't want - to maintain stuff. The only thing that's allowed to be high maintenance in my life is me, and in any case after you're dead and gone someone else gets your pad or tears everything out anyway. Try Stonepeak http://www.stonepeakceramics.com
their Plane range looks pretty nice - I've seen an entire kitchen done in it.
Yes, I HATE cleaning grout lines! I am not sure if there is a way to avoid scrubbing.
The reason why I am thinking of using look alike is because of the following link (Rex tiles are from Italy):
I haven't seen the real thing yet. Just for curiosity I want to see it in person.
I agree the porcelain tiles are getting better and better in terms of design. The wood look alike is just amazing.
Tiles which fade or develop a grimy look over time are in the long run undesirable
as bathroom floor or wall tiles. That is why I do not use marble.
I went to Paramount Floormart, 347 37th St. Brooklyn. They don't have a fancy showroom; it's more like a small lumberyard. They're smaller than Lumber Liquidators, but have a bigger selection and competitive prices. They were extremely helpful as I needed to match the wood to something in an adjoining room. PID was too expensive.
note bad news about Lumber Liquidators:
Lumber Liquidators - cant beat the price or service
pidfloors - they carry made in USA floors.
Ballpark estimates, 8-12 weeks after closing if you're ready to begin immediately (contractors priced and hired and available, finishes selected, and the building approval/paperwork doesn't take excessively long), and I'd guess $20K to $30K in costs.
I am in contract on a 2br/2bath apartment in Harlem. I am looking to do a few upgrades and trying to get a sense of budget. The apartment is about 1,000 square feet. The apartment will be vacate during the work.
• Remove the popcorn ceiling. The ceiling are high enough that I think they can just be covered with thin sheetrock.
• Remove the laminate on the kitchen cabinets and have them sprayed.
• Repaint the entire apartment.
• Replace the counter top in the bathrooms and kitchen.
• Add a ceiling light fixture one bedroom.
• Refinishing the parquet flooring.
The building is improving, but that is a bad thing as far as you are concerned?
And is it the fault of the building that there are "outside building sites"?
not much for a quiet enjoyment of your apartment in this building. There is constant construction noise from outside building sites as well as from apartments within the building. There is extensive renovation going on and will last for very long time. this is probably due to the majority of the units being sold these days.
My friend chose to put sheetrock over popcorn too, and it turned out to be much cheaper and easier. Like raddoc said there could be minor loss of ceiling height depending on sheetock thickness and whether furring strips are needed (on concrete ceilings). Also there will be a risk of sagging
Raddoc, that's so informative... Knowing that only about a 1/2" of ceiling height would be lost by using drywall to hide the popcorn. I really appreciate everybody's comments and time that you took out to share your knowledge !
My relatives had this problem and found it was easier, cleaner & much cheaper to just put new drywall over the popcorn.
They lost 1/2" ceiling height (out of standard 8'), but it is not at all evident .
My least favorite thing to do is remove popcorn ceiling, I cannot charge enough. The mess is a nightmare but it is also a nightmare to remove it. I try to encourage my clients to laminate the ceiling with sheetrock, less expensive and much easier
Thank you all for weighing in! Your insights are very helpful!!!