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Dude, this thread is six years old.
Hi Tracyc. How can I contact your contractor?
You are a funny person, nyc..are your eyes tired of reading my post recommending Filip, my contractor? So negative..hope the rest of your day gets better!
Tracyc: stop spamming. If you are yourself a contractor, then just post as yourself. This is getting tiresome.
I'm not sure if you are still looking for someone-but I just asked the contractor who did some electrical work for us what he would charge. He said approximately $4500 for replacing wiring, new outlets, new switches and simple light fixtures for the entire apartment. He would be able to give you pricing for closing walls, smoothing and painting, once he got to look at the apartment.
I highly recommend him! He is extremely honest and trustworthy! If you would like his info, shoot me an email @ tracy5760.
A poster at http://www.homeadvisor.com/tloc/Brooklyn-NY/Architect/ complained four days ago, "Turner Towers started a replumbing project about 4 years ago, which is stalled in a court suit. We have been advised to do our own master bathroom. . . . We are rethinking the bathroom and [the fixtures] we originally bought. We need to have architect drawings approved by the coop, then an approved contractor, and then we can finally begin this work."
The big flip tax on resale profits was supposed to feed plumbers, among other contractors; not lawyers.
Comments six years ago on Brownstoner aren't much happier (I can't include the links without triggering a spam rejection). One mentions water pipes on TOP of the building. Since then, the view probably hasn't changed much, but now it can be seen in 3D:
Sometimes a large slab will not fit and you have to have a seam, it is possible to bring it up the stairs but they will charge for it, could be $100 per flight.
I believe they usually poke the top of the slab into the (opened) emergency escape door on the cab's ceiling. No?
Thanks all. On a related note, how do people get long countertops into their apartment in one piece if it doesn't fit in the elevator? I guess you can use a crane and bring it into the apartment through windows (very expensive?) or have it hauled up the stairs (moderate upcharge?) Has anyone had a 1.25" thick stone countertop hauled up the stairs and if so additional cost associated with it? Thanks in advance
some discussion on marble: http://streeteasy.com/talk/discussion/40204
Soapstone. It's gorgeous, different, and durable. You chip it, you can sand it and reoil it. Done. Use mineral oil to turn it from.orig gray to black. Just my two cents. Biased cause I got it and love it
MCR, did New2Me also retire?
@front_porch - thanks for the insight. Seems like refinishing the existing marble is the way to go.
@bem9 - the quality and price of travertine and granite certainly do so I cannot imagine that marble would be any different.
does anyone know if the price and quality of marble varies significantly between shops?
mcr, I have never used travertine, but I put a limestone floor in a bath. It had to be sealed around once a year, and cleaned with a little special attention ... but it wasn't too bad. Assuming travertine is similar, just think ... are you willing to keep water from standing on it? Because that's the problem, really ... sweeping up dirt can wait until you get around to it, but you don't want water to sink into a porous stone, unless you're willing to live with the "patina."
I like the rustic look of it. The entry hall ends in a room that has a giant Carderock fireplace with a flagstone bench; that room, as well as each of the rooms on either side of the entry hall, has hardwood. I feel like the marble is too formal and am looking for something less formal. Perceptions are interesting because my aversion to putting in porcelain tile was my perception that porcelain tile screamed Home Depot. I agree that there are beautiful porcelain tiles out and prefer porcelain for kitchens and bathrooms, but had not considered it for the entry hall. For some reason I felt/feel like I need a natural stone or hardwood for that space, but now I am going to revisit this and spend some time on Houzz (which really should have been first stop for my question). Thank you for the response; gave me food for thought.
Delays in signing a contract often mean the counter-party is shopping for a better
deal and will drop yours if a better deal comes along
Its between the two of you.
Jeff, because it seemed like a small thing to bother you with, given that we'll end up spending half an hour talking about the Mets, but I'll call you tomorrow.
rb: thanks, you affirm that I'm right to be annoyed.
Fields: I guess I should pay Jeff time plus 30, sound right to you?
1. being a type AAAA, I don't wait very long
2. if someone wants and has agreed to a contract, and it is simple to understand,
it should be returned executed by noon the day after it has been delivered
4. just like a rental lease or a sales purchase
If she calls you for advice and doesn't hire and pay you for your services on this apartment, then she's stealing.
Seems like quite the racket but probably not something worth doing myself. Thanks for all the responses.
For my 1 BR co-op, my architect 's expediter was CODE. Total was $3,500, payable in 3 installments.
Here's a link in case you want to do some comparisons.
I recently paid $3900 for landmark and DOB alt type II expediting service that included same day filing procedure.
My architect referred me to Jenny Flores Expediting. Her fee was $1300 in 2013 for an Alt-2:
"Prepare the required Department of Building filing applications, submit applications and plans provided to the Department of Buildings, schedule and attend up to (4) appointments with examiners to obtain approval of plans. Once all work completed, we will prepare and submit the "Letter of Completion" to obtain a sign-off of project."
An expediter fee is about what you were quoted whether the job is for a studio or duplex penthouse. It seems large in comparison to cost of a smaller apartment renovation than a larger one, but the expediter does essentially the same amount of work and spends about the same amount of time regardless of size of the job. The cost is ridiculous--I grant you that. But it is the going rate for years. Others may have alternatives but short of figuring out yourself which lines to stand in and for what purpose and what to do at where these lines are, the expediter is the only option I am aware of.
Why don't you list what you need such as specific pesticide, then people can be specific with their advice and recommendations?
Sorry, Fieldschester, I hope that didn't make me sound unreasonable. To give you an example, with the last guy, I had arranged in advance with the company what he'd be spraying with, but he showed up without it. I can't remember his excuse - something like he didn't have time to go to the company office that morning to pick up the right pesticide. I hope you don't think it's unreasonable of me to expect that whoever shows up will correctly do what was agreed on beforehand. And I prefer companies that are straightforward with their replies - a lot of guys are very evasive.
You want someone who is ordinary and competent, reasonable prices, but you've had multiple people in the past who you were unsatisfied with? What are you really looking for?
I've been looking for a good pest control guy, not finding anyone I'd want to return to a second time. Any suggestions? Just an ordinary competent option - not someone whose prices are delusional. I'm in Manhattan, but most outer-borough companies seem to come into Manhattan, so I'm open to that.
stzinn88, is this for a place in New York City, or up in C0lumbia C0unty?
Check out architectural salvage places like Olde Good Things. Here's what they have online currently but they have a huge warehouse in PA so if you call they likely have other doors as well http://ogtstore.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_str=barn door&x=0&y=0
Anyone have a barn door or something similar to be used as a sliding pantry door. We are looking for something 83 x 36 preferably, but everything is flexible. We would really like one that looks weathered and is already made.
Please reach out with pics and prices to jparksdeals @ gmail.com
What's wrong with that?
Only the best high end wall paper for a new owner.
Can anyone recommend a good wallpaper hanger in Manhattan that has experience hanging high-end paper?
There is a great possibility that your building will not allow to move the gas line
It all depends on structure inside the wall
The kitchen alone would cost a rock bottom minimum of 30K. Moving a gas line and tearing down the wall is extra.
I recently bought my first co-op and am looking for any rough guidance anyone may have. We have a small 6x8 kitchen where we are looking to tear down ~6 feet of one of the walls. The wall has a gas line that we're hoping to move to the side, and one outlet, but is otherwise free. How expensive might this be? 10k? 25k? more?
If it helps, the building is older (1960's) and the walls seem pretty thick (probably concrete our inspector said)
I know a lot of the cost of renovation will be the new cabinetry / countertop / etc, but it'd be nice to get some idea of cost on just the wall tear down.
I have been reading this board for a few years and have found it useful. Because of this, I feel compelled to share a negative experience on a house renovation project. Despite being warned about the pitfalls of construction in NY and doing extensive research, including on this board, I ended up getting myself into exactly the sort of situation I was hoping to avoid, hence this post, about Accrete Construction Group, a licensed general contractor in NYC. I am hoping to avoid someone else going through a similar ordeal by posting about this company here.
Despite being paid more than $100000 to do renovation work on a 2-family house in Brooklyn, NY, Accrete Construction Group performed work of very poor quality and did not complete the job. They were also about a year past the contract deadline for completion when I finally gave them a stop order. At that point, they pretended that the work was nearly finished while the apartment was likely months away from being habitable. Here are some specifics:
- Among other things, Accrete Construction installed sheetrock in a bathroom without installing the water supply lines. The bathroom was presented as "nearly finished". In truth, whether by neglect or by malice, it was nowhere near functional, and, obviously, the walls should not have been built without any water supply lines present.
- In some rooms built by Accrete Construction, the metal studs used were not attached to anything, resulting in walls with little structural integrity. Some walls were flimsy and could be moved by hand.
- Accrete Construction built walls within rooms with no regard for the dimensions specified in the plans in the bid set, thereby rendering the rooms unusable. For example, the long wall in the kitchen went from 120 inches (as specified in the bid set) to 112 inches, making it impossible to build the kitchen as per the bid set.
- In a bathroom, because Accrete Construction built a wall on top of the old wall, the toilet hole was only 12 inches away from the side wall (instead of 16 inches), basically making it impossible to use.
- It is clear that the workers employed were not qualified, were negligent and were unsupervised. Incredibly, upon opening up the walls, we found rests of food and a water bottle in new walls built by Accrete Construction.
- The metal post put in by a subcontractor of Accrete Construction was not straight.
- The vent for the dryer was held together by duct tape and was full of holes.
- Metal studs installed by Accrete Construction were already rusted at the bottom in the basement.
- The drain pipe for the toilet in a bathroom newly renovated by Accrete Construction, was completely disintegrated and should have been changed. As is, the toilet would have leaked right away.
- Walls and ceilings were generally built in a wildly uneven manner. Almost nothing they built was straight.
Both floors Accrete Construction put in were improperly installed and were not level.
Accrete Construction also did not provide - or pay for - materials that were explicitly listed in the contract documents and that they were responsible to pay for: A/C condenser units, wood flooring, expensive sliding door hardware, mechanical fire rated door, frameless glass shower door, kitchen and bathroom countertops, Benjamin Moore paint etc. By my count, these material add up to more than $23000.
Accrete Construction repeatedly did not respect the specifications of the contract: they did not pay attention to drawings, blueprints and generally built things in a haphazard way. They were also a nightmare to deal with: routinely late, bad with returning phone calls and emails. When confronted about issues by the architect and myself, the President of the company and his managers systematically got defensive. They made excuses for everything, blamed the architect and would not accept responsibility for anything.
To be sure, I was not knowledgeable about construction when I started this process and there are many things I would do differently now. This was my first house renovation. I definitely should not have paid this company as much as I did given the low quality of the work and the many delays. Despite doing research and trying to get things right, I was naive and I was misled.
I will let everyone here draw their own conclusions but I have started a claim with the NYC Department of Consumer Affairs.
reminds me: http://streeteasy.com/talk/discussion/14059-98-riverside-drive
When I first moved in with my boyfriend, he had no covering on the bathroom windows. I was enjoying a bath one night watching a party across the way, when I realized that if I could see them...I was probably the entertainment. Amazon Prime shipped some of that magnetic film the next day. Ours looked like stained glass and even fooled a few guests. They also have some that are just textured looking translucent. It was super easy to apply and when we moved a few years later, it still looked good.
Fieldchester, thanks for the picture. I think that those windows would be an option. Do you know the brand? Or similar?
FrontPorch, I'm not sure that corrugated glass would fit woth the character of the unit. Any other thoughts?
I would like a permanent solution (probably involving the glass in the windows themselves) and would like something conservative. I had seen old diamond leaded windows for bathrooms, but this seems impractical for a bedroom, correct?
Maybe corrugated glass? You'd want to consult with your architect so that your place doesn't end up looking like a bank, but I sold an UWS townhouse duplex where corrugated glass was used to draw light into the interior, specifically the bathroom, and the result was really great.
There are solutions at all price points, though what you want is 'translucent' rather than 'opaque'. The press-on films include those that are 'mirrored' when viewed from the outside, as well as just 'frosted'. There are some minimal roller shades in varying amounts of translucence that are nearly invisible when up, and fully flat when down, as well as the thinner honeycomb shades. At the higher end, you could replace the existing window with translucent glass, or have a configuration of fitted interior moveable panels., for those days when you really do want to see your neighbors. Prices will be anywhere from $50 to thousands. I like my translucent roller shades from the Shade Store.
$150K, 3 months. The super gave them specific instructions on what decor, cabinetry, lights, and appliances to install, based on work in other apartments in the building. I didn't have to think about or worry about a thing.
what was the reno budget and the timeframe?
My OP apparently got mangled, so I'd like to restate my question. I picked a small contracting firm to do a m neither insulting nor overgenerous?
My building super did a great job at project-managing our d feel appropriate, not for a contracted fee. The question is . . . what WOULD be appropriate?
You are not going to be able to use existing 120v wiring to run a code-compliant 220V. For one, the existing wiring is probably too thin for the amperage needed on the dryer. Besides, virtually all 220v appliances need both 110v (for lights/motor/etc.) and 220v (for heat). It requires two hot legs, a neutral and a ground. You may find old setups that use three wires, but there is no ground, and not code for new installations and not doable from an exiting BX cable that has an uninsulated ground wire.
Not totally clear from the original post whether this is replacing an existing washer/dryer, or if all that's existing is an outlet originally designed for something else. If the latter, you need a dedicated circuit to add this machine, and the existing outlet's circuit and/or its neutral wire may be shared among multiple outlets, impeding the use-existing concept. Again, get someone to survey, removing covers/plates to inspect wiring, and doing some circuit tracing to verify the details.
Right, the 120V neutral would become the second hot. At the panel end that former neutral would connect to a breaker instead of to neutral. The two 120V hot breakers are connected together so both throw at the same time. Then you replace the outlet at the other end.
I once did the reverse, changing a 240V AC circuit to 120V. The second hot became the neutral.
You shouldn't need new wiring, so maybe a few hours of an electrician's time.
As jelj13 says you may or may not have 208V or 240V service in your apartment panel, versus just 110V. An electrician can quickly determine this after taking off the panel cover.
240V for a washer/dryer is probably two conductors plus ground, maybe three conductors plus ground. It's not impossible some existing wiring could be reused, with outlet and breaker replaced on each end and some work in the panel, but again you need a survey (opening some existing outlets) to determine.
I'm in the UK now, and I can attest that the combo washer-dryers all suck, even the ones that work on 240v.
If you do go ahead and install one, I recommend a heated towel rack in your bathroom. All UK flats seem to have them. They've become my de facto dryer. I take the clothes out of the washer-dryer, which are damp even after four hours, and then hang them on the heated towel rack overnight.
Be aware that major facade work will be done on 65 Cooper Square from April until October 2016. During that time residents cannot run their a/c, use their patios/balconies, or open their windows.
I had our bathroom shower water proofed with a product called redgard. It is painted on over the cement board and becomes a membrane. Then the tiles are laid. The waterproof is to prevent water from getting through the tiles and spreading into your walls and damaging wooden structures or growing mold. The water should drip into your tub. I actually applied the redgard myself in a few hours. I dont understand the 2,500 price, water proofing should be standard with a bathroom renovation. I would think a GC would need at most 2 days to lay a membrane in a 6 x 8 shower area. Water proofing would not prevent damage from an upstairs neighbor with a leak. Water will still flow from inside their wall to yours behind the membrane. Water proofing the floor makes no sense, if you have any kind of constant slow or fast leak, the water proof isn't going to stop gallons of water from seeping in your floors. It might slow it down at most.
I don't understand the point of waterproofing an area that isn't typically wet. Obviously showers and tub surrounds should be waterproofed, but if there's a leak, the water is still going to go somewhere. Is water spilling out into your living room that much better than having it in your bathroom?
I think people hear "waterproofing" and get lulled into a false sense of security without really understanding what will happen if something goes wrong, especially since you cannot easily anticipate where a leak will come from. A pipe above your apartment that leaks for 8 hours is going to cause material damage somewhere, waterproofing or not.
"Better safe than sorry" is why you buy insurance.
I think most GC's are flexible but it really depends on several factors
1. Is the GC busy? if he is then he will probably not be so flexible (supply and demand)
2. How badly does the contractor want the project (There are some projects the a contractor might take because they feel it will get them more business)
3.Some contractors (not all) go in higher expecting the client to negotiate
Yes, the floors are included in that price. As for the walls, I guess it's 2 walls for the shower (in a corner) and 2 for the sink (also in a corner) in the bathroom. The bath and sink share a wall, so really, 3 walls floor in bath, and just floor and 1 wall (where the sink is) in the kitchen... for that price.
How negotiable are GCs when it comes to their estimates? Of course, it all changes once the work starts, but I'd like to find someone who is willing to be flexible (if such a thing exists).
We use Hydroban. 1 wet wall? doesn't make sense, they should at least waterproof the floor, up 6" on walls and full walls in the shower and tub area. I just charged a client 2400 to waterproof 2 bathrooms and a kitchen
I had a survey done about 25 years ago and they charged me $1,500.
As part of our project to raise the penthouse roof a few feet, our architect needs detailed elevation information for our current roof (7th floor in Flatiron). The first quote came in at $2,800, which was more than double what we expect. We are planning on getting some more quotes, but does that seem reasonable? The building is about 40' wide and 70' deep.
Steve, Does it include installation and cab? Will they install for you or do need a separate contractor? Good luck. Thanks.
Union labor is quality labor. I'm not sure why unions are under attack by 300mercer.
I spoke with Schindler and they were quoting around ~100k for a 5 stop elevator. I will be reaching out to a few more companies as I may require a side door.
Try this as well and please do let us know what estimates you get. I am interested in knowing this for a townhouse.
I would seek verification from the equipment manufacturer that installing the condenser in a niche is an acceptable installation practice.
I think nyc_sport gave you two very good potential objections. It'll look different from the rest of the building, and how will your installer ensure wind-driven rain does not enter the apartment?
It won't stick outside at all, it will be in the existing through the wall sleeve -- there is enough space in there for the circulation according to the AC guy. I'm looking for potential objections so i can be prepared with a rebuttal. It is completely enclosed in my unit, can't see any issues it would pose to anyone else.
How are you going to insulate that sleeve? The coop might object because that is going to look very strange from the outside (not that the ac units are very good looking), and may invite water penetration.
Ask a Board member
Live in a co-op with large through the wall AC sleeves. I was thinking of trying to put in a split unit and placing the condenser part in the sleeve. I had a AC guy come by and he said if we build out the sleeve a bit this should work. We would drain the unit through a sink, its very close to wear the unit will be so that's easy enough. Any thoughts on this? Would the coop object - why would they? btw, we can't mount anything outside.
What neighborhood, and what was it like in the 1980s?
I lived in a "duplex," reconstructed from shell condition c. 1970, when Chelsea was still rough. We found out the upstairs was never filed with the city when we went to do renovations. The upstairs was too big to be a mezzanine, but didn't meet the definition of a full floor either.
This was apparently one of several post-plan approval changes the architect / owner made in 1970, when no one cared about Chelsea, and I guess no one ever inspected? The architect did a few other buildings in Chelsea, and all of them have similar issues -- mezzanines added, cellar-level apartments, unfiled extensions, illegal decks, etc. Some of the issues were solved at the time of co-op conversion, but some (like ours!) continued to be swept under the rug until someone went to file with the city.
In our case, the city accepted / grandfathered the mezzanine / extra floor, but we did have to widen the replacement (spiral) staircase to meet code. I don't remember all the specifics. The code for convenience stairs is not as stringent as for egress stairs, but you can't just do whatever you want.
Not what I was hoping to hear, but appreciate the info. It also seems strange that the building was gut renovated and the duplexes were added as new features in the mid-80s. Has the code changed that much since then?
Interior staircases need to meet stringent criteria- listen to your architect and expediter.
I just purchased a duplex condo in Manhattan and the stairs to the upper level are in a poor position. (There is awkward 18" ledge that runs the entire side of the stairs, leaving a lot of wasted space.
The apt is in a loft building from 1900. The stairs, which were added when the building went condo in the early 80s, are clearly not up to code (relatively steep rise, 26" wide, and only about 6'3" of clearance at the minimum). Since space is at a premium, I would prefer to have relatively narrow and steep stairs, but my architect says that if we move the stairs they need to be 100% up to code, which would take up a ton of space on both floors. However, since these are not egress stairs and are only "internal" stairs within my apt, I was under the impression that there was more wiggle room. In looking online, some resources seem to refer to these as "convenience" stairs and suggest that only public stairs, etc., need to meet the more stringent criteria. However, my architect and expediter have never heard of these. Any experience or knowledge you might be able to share?