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When we talk about refacing it is not exactly gluing laminate to the existing. When we reface we replace all the doors and sometimes the panels as well. Sometimes we have to glue laminate to a panel but never the doors. It is also possible to spray your cabinets onsite which usually comes out great. There are some inexpensive cabinets such as Ikea which I recommend highly.
There are many Ikea kitchens on my site. www.primerenovationsnyc.com. Look under gallery and then kitchens. Not all are Ikea but there are many.
Your are correct. Refacing is just gluing laminate over the doors. Refinishing involves sanding down the doors and staining them or painting them. If the doors are "dated", you could just replace them.
I had a dated kitchen, but the cabinets were solid. I just replaced the doors. You can cap the ends of the cabinets with high quality wood veneer or another door. You can also get wood veneer trim in strips to go around the cabinet where the door meets it. I had that done and the doors and veneers were purchased through Walzcraft.com. I also added their crown molding. Everything matched perfectly. It was like a brand new kitchen!
AH - I hope you weren't kidding about painting them white, because that is actually what I want to do. I just can't figure out why contractors who are estimating my job are trying to convince me to "reface" them.
aalsberg - I must have the wrong contractors estimating my job because new cabinets don't seem cheap to me! (then again, I suppose I am the one who could be cheap . . .)
Better than this is to just get new cabinets they are cheap
I used this guy for many of the same things you are looking to have done and I live in Brooklyn Heights:
Spotlight Electric, LLC | Jaroslaw Choinski, President | 243 McDonald Ave #6T | Brooklyn, NY 11218
t: 718.666.5303 • f: 321.600.5303 • e: email@example.com
I was very happy with his work and his prices were reasonable.
Any recommendations for an electrician in the Carroll Gardens / Boerum Hill area? Any opinions on estimated cost are greatly appreciated as well.
We are looking to do the following small items:
Change light switch to dimmers
Change light fixture to ceiling
Move electrical (cable outlet) in order to mount television
I used this guy to install some track lighting and ceiling. Good work, on time, reasonably priced. Very responsive.
Same as Primer if you want to compare electrical pricing: firstname.lastname@example.org
Email me at email@example.com and i will give you my electrician
Any suggestions for painters that work in the Carroll Gardens area?
Any ball park estimates would also be greatly appreciated.
Looking to paint a one bed / one bath with home office - All walls are new drywall (already painted white) and not looking for doors mouldings or ceilings.
Didn't include doors either
I paid $3,200 to get a 2,800 square foot 3BR in Manhattan painted. Was doing my floors also which cost me $9,500 to sand down and stain with one coat. Paid $1,200 extra for a second coat. Given a couple of bathrooms and utility rooms I guess 2,200 of wood floors.
The painting included ceilings but not much woodwork as that is all stained mocha and includes skirting boards and window frames. Included changing the colt in a couple of rooms to much lighter colors so need priming.
The final job was excellent on both. Not sure if was a good deal as didn't get multiple quotes. GC had insurance.
I do not advise most people to do this but considering your situation I would go to Janovic paints Monday morning. There are always guys out front who you can pay $150 per day for each guy.
I do not advise people to do this but since it is for a rental and you need it done quick it is something to think about
Tomnevers Would you be willing to share this person's contact info.? I need a painter ASAP, as my new tenants, who agreed to paint after moving in, are now asking me to have someone paint the small apartment in one day (July 31st.) I used the week I had to have the floor professionally refinished after having a major portion replaced.
ab_11218 Would you be also be willing to share contact info.?
I like uptown_joe's idea of moving the pump somewhere hidden. The pump will fail at some point and if you can move it somewhere out of the way (i.e. quiet) but still have it accessible for maintenance, that would be a good outcome.
Most split systems use a gravity drain to get rid of the condensate, so a pump isn't necessary.
If pumps are installed improperly (not fastened securely), cheap, or dirty, they'll be loud.
Agreed, the condensate pump can be replaced with a different (quieter) model. Might be helpful to get a larger pump/reservoir too; bigger motors are usually quieter and a larger reservoir would mean it runs less often.
There is also some possibility it could be relocated to an intermediate position between the indoor air handler and the final drain location -- the water would gravity-drain to a reservoir/pump at a more suitable intermediate location, and then be pumped to the final drain. So if there is a closet nearby it could be hidden there and muffled better. But it depends on your particular situation.
y little motors, and only run when there's enough condensate to pump. I'd have the HVAC contractor start with that.
Ah OK. There's no drain close enough for the condensate, so there's a pump to convey it there. Those are usually tin
Thanks NWT. Just closed, so not even sure if there are 2 staircases. As for the managing agent, he said to check with the architect.
I would not care to live in a building in which the help dragged rubbish through the floor's reception area, and tradesmen came and went through there ... the milk man, ice man, drayman, laundress and porter should really use the service elevator and enter through the back door. Firemen, too.
So take half your stuff to Goodwill Industries or the local foundling hospital and you'll do just fine.
There was a period in the 1920s when exit requirements were a lot more rigorous than they are now. E.g., two non-overlapping paths out of an apartment to separate staircases.
If you look at a building of the same vintage, e.g. http://streeteasy.com/building/215-west-75-street-new_york/floorplans, some second exits have been blocked and some haven't.
You should be OK with the city as long as you can still get to two staircases from your front door. If you ask the managing agent, they'll let you know what the building's permitted in other same-line apartments.
We have a 2 bedroom 1150 square foot apartment on the 3rd floor of an elevator building. It's prewar, and has 2 exits, the main door (leading to the elevator and stairs) and one in the kitchen (the stairwell). We could really use the wall in the kitchen that the door is currently occupying. Can we cover it? What is the code on this?
Using Ikea does help on the timing. If I was you I would assume it will take 9 weeks. It will probably be substantially complete in 7
I agree with primer in that you need to be fast to decide. When there is a faucet or door handle to be chosen, it's important to get it ASAP. sounds silly to get stressed over that stuff, that's how renovations get delayed.
@primer05 the others said 8. Originally this one said 8 too, but changed it to 7 (on his own, not from my asking). Kitchen cabinets is Ikea. There is some other custom millwork for other parts of the unit.
You will really need to keep on top of things. Quick decision making is very important. Where are the kitchen cabinets coming from? 7 weeks seems way to short to me. If I was you I would look to see if you can rent an apt for a month longer. I have seen this happen too many times. Did you ask all the contractors that you had bid on it give you a estimated time frame for the work? If they all said 7 weeks than you should be fine
The kitchen (crazy small) is a complete re-do. The bathroom is keeping tub but changing pretty much everything else (inc tiling etc). Now you guys are making me nervous....
"Gray is a very good balance for pink. It makes the pink feel less girly/whimsical, more sophisticated. "
In 1985 maybe.
Girl, buy a paint brush, some paint, something to cover your moo-moo, and just paint it. With all your worrying and fretting, perhaps you should just leave it pink........................
you can't just paint over it? (or skim coat then paint over). If you're paying $1.5m for an apartment, you should be willing to invest in making it not look like a vegas swingers club
ok thanks. I've never been there, so I didn't know. But it is on my bucket list.
Tacoma really doesn't evoke images of pink and brass. Certainly not teal. Maybe grey and lumber.
The electrician left the metal junction box cover.
It is not. They are going to replace it.
I would not be comfortable with this and while not an expert I suspect it is not code compliant. The basic metal junction box cover is about 1/8" thick and shouldn't pose an issue. (You don't need a 'finished' blank plate like you might see visible on a wall, with angled or curved edges etc.) Also since it is concealed there is no need to plaster over it - just let the junction box cover stay exposed and fill in around it.
While we're on the subject you probably want to make sure the outlet under the sink is a gfci since that is a damp space.
I'm renovating my kitchen. The new dishwasher has the option of a "plug in" connection to an outlet. As per the directions, the outlet was moved from behind the dishwasher to the back wall of the sink. The electrician left a metal plate to cover the old box where the ends of the wires of the old outlet are covered with plugs. The workers for the contractors covered the outlet with "something" and plastered over the hole. They claimed the cover was so thick that it would push the dishwasher too far forward. This makes no sense to me because the power cord and hose are already on the back of the dishwasher and take up more space than the metal plate. What I'm really concerned about is whether they've violated electrical code.
I think c0lumbiac0unty had a noise problem with his outhouse, and so he just set up a system where the chickens would go at a different time than the horses.
The power of the flushing is worth a bit of noise if you set the flushometer too much it will spritz up at the end of the flush cycle
My contractor says all the flushometer models are so noisy because they're powerful. He said that people prefer tank toilets for that reason, but sometimes you have to flush repeatedly. I did have a water saver tank toilet in my last place that was so powerful that you'd think a jet was taking off. Some of the other neighbors had theirs taken out. Maybe there's nothing you can do if you want the power.
Under a cap at the top of the flushometer you'll find a screw. Turning that one way or the other will reduce/increase how long a flush takes, which might reduce the noise. Google the model number and details will turn up.
We just moved into a gorgeous prewar apartment with a tiny bathroom. I love the flushometer toilet. It's so powerful, it practically scrubs itself. But it's so loud you can hear it, loudly, two rooms away. Is there a way to make it flush more quietly?
The best gifts are referrals and great reviews.
Get a pro photographer to shoot the final product and give the GC digital copies and maybe a print. They can use it for their marketing and perhaps hang a print in their office. Total cost should be less than $500. I do this with my clients since I'm a photographer and my clients (GCs or otherwise) love it.
CASH ONLY. I gave our CG a bonus of $800 (I just rounded up what I owed him for a final payment), and tipped everybody a few hundred. This was an extensive gut level renovation of one floor plus adding walls in Nassau County. For current project in Brooklyn, I'm planning on giving workers on our 700 square foot tin ceiling $200 each. If that is unaffordable for you, do what you can. But this isn't Ohio, chocolate chip cookies are not what they're looking for. Please do not buy anything it will just be a disappointment. They need cash, not your idea of a nice gift.
Also I have been on the receiving end of stuff like this too---when I was a performing musician, I did a corporate gig and the client gave me a crystal paperweight with a Zen saying and his name on it as a thank you. I keep it on my piano, and I happen to like it, but I know a lot of musicians who would want to throw that thing right back at that guy.
A good way to thank them is to thank them.
Nothing says thank you like a thank you.
If you want to be patronizing, mylar balloons and free pizza are a good idea.
We are in the final weeks of an extensive gut renovation. We are thrilled with their work and want to find a way to thank both our GC and each member of his crew. Has anyone ever bought gifts for each crew member, and if so, what did you buy, did they like it? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
affordable 'fixers' are just 68 miles west of the most expensive city in the US:
Thank you sp21,
Nothing wrong with Ikea. If you go with flay panel doors they can be customized to fit your space. There are many ikea kitchens on my site www.primerenovationsnyc.com. Look under gallery and then kitchens. It's hard to say how much you should budget for the kitchen without seeing it. I am on the upper eastside as well if you want me to take a look let me know. You can reach me at 646-436-3942 or firstname.lastname@example.org
I gathered a lot of cabinet catalogs through Home Depot and online sites. I also looked at Houzz.com for ideas and manufacturers. http://www.homestyler.com/ is a site with free CAD diagramming for design work so you can get a better feel for what your kitchen would look like. I also bought HGTV Home Design and Landscaping software, focusing on my living room, dining room, kitchen since they flow together.
In the end, I discovered that I needed a lot of custom sized cabinets due to issues with my kitchen layout. I hired a contractor who does custom carpentry work. I modeled his plans on the HGTV software and did a "3D walk through" to see how I liked the plans. We did some "tweaking" based on my walk through.
My contractor did an IKEA installation. He said they have some clever ideas in their product lines, especially space utilization. However, his client had so many modifications that had to be done to the cabinets that it would have been cheaper for the client to have them custom made. The contractor felt the IKEA cabinets were not bad for the price.
Also if you use Ikea kitchens, the quality is very good but you need to have a GC who knows Ikea. Prime Renovations has a guy who posts often here, Primer, and he does excellent work with those kitchens (which are indeed a great value for the money)
you can replace appliances later. Some seem easier to replace than others. Ex you can swap out a fridge or a dishwasher in an hour. Stove, does not seem as easy.
hi there- question do you have an architect or designer to do the combo/design, its required by the nyc dob/and all buildings....if you need a hand let me know we can discuss all these items. i do have a couple of very good and reliable GC that i have worked with for the past 10 + years and could pass those on as well. email me anytime.
hey there- was interested in working with them, sounds like you had some issues- could you tell me a bit more? how was the cabinetry and the service as well? thanks
Never seen a more arcane invoice, just a total number with no breakdown. and I have to keep asking - where is the designer discount, the retainer payment (and any adjustments are calculated by hand).
i have been working in nyc for 15years and have great GC/speciality contractors as well. send me an email anytime and we can go thru what you have - go from there. i could do a free consolation up front as well.
ABA Constructions- fully licensed and insured, bonded, and EPA Certified. GC has over 10 years of experience and has done alot of high end residential renovations. If interested you can contact him at 646-409-2009 or via email @ email@example.com. We also have a few architects we work with if you are interested.
I would be interested in speaking with you further regarding your potential project. My office's work focuses mainly on residential projects in the New York City area. Please visit our website to view samples of work.
Please feel free to take a look at my website, my work speaks for itself. I am a contractor in nyc with years of experience and work closely with the client to ensure a perfect and seamless renovation. I have a number of designers/ architects that I could refer to you. A great website btw for ideas and inspirations is Houzz.com. Feel free to contact me at Aby@msqll.com if you would like to discuss further.
Any update to this list of recommendations? Looking to restore/renovate a prewar co-op that has been a bit "muddled" over time. Designer? Architect? Contractor? Appreciate any suggestions.
What hood is your head in, hoodlum?
>We sold that house post-Sandy but we loved the hood.
What hood was that in?
We installed a Vent-a-Hood ventless hood in a kitchen (with tall ceilings and windows) over a high-end residential range. It looks like it vents to the exterior but instead it has sophisticated filtering. We bought from AJ Madison, which was wonderful to work with. We needed the extender piece because the ceiling is so high. The hood takes filtered cooking air up to the ceiling and vents it into the room. We sold that house post-Sandy but we loved the hood.
Thanks PH41! We actually did, but the Wolf is going into an apt for my in-laws in different city. Our new place barely has room for toaster oven.
Congratulations NYCNovice - looks like you found an apartment you love !!
I hear that this building allows washers and dryers in each unit. I'm curious to know if anyone has personal experience with this building and it's rules.
MC - I had a similar (and even more ridiculous) request from the DOB. Get the expediter to go down to the records at the DOB, and make copies of the microfilm records. The borough office would not have asked for this kind of proof. Please document all this, and send to your local city councillor and borough president.
It is unconventional, and probably not done that often but if you go to the Department
of Buildings with a suicide bomb strapped to your chest the employees will probably be
able to issue your permits on the spot
Of the latest request from the DOB, they want the "deed or proof of the name of the owner" of the property next to ours prior to 1961. Of course ACRIS starts at 1966. Isn't that ridiculous?
The hub system was new when you filed. Mine has been in the system for over a year.
Alanhart: I once had someone in to fix and refinish my floors after I had a leak from the overhead apartment. The guy adjusted the rubber strip on the bottom of the front door to assure that it would not scrape the wet coat on the floor. However, he didn't tighten the screws enough and it fell down when he closed the door leaving a windshield wiper affect on the floor -- first thing you noticed at the entrance.
I emailed my wood floor guy Carlos Wood Floors and he said you should do one (1) coat of sealer and (3) coats of water based finish preferably BONA® product. If you want to contact him directly email him at firstname.lastname@example.org - they are wood floor experts who work specifically in Manhattan and Brooklyn.
One or two more than the product recommends. Even more for entrance foyer/gallery.
I once had a floor refinisher who painted himself into the far corner of the room, as evidenced by the footprints that he left behind, permanently. "Like a vaudeville act", said an older relative of mine when she heard about it.
Alanhart, how many coats of water based finish would you recommend?
Got it! Thanks !
Yikes, and I thought MYCMatt had taste! NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Flat-screen teevee? Seriously? Don't those emit radiation that leads to communism?
Anyway, all of youse, you know what you really want is a shameless-hussy red Malm 34Zircon, a Preway, Majestic or maybe a Fireorb.
NYCMatt either option sounds neat! You need a rather large space for option number 2. Wish I had that kind of space. Thanks for the thoughts.
That petite cast iron fireplace would go nicely between my two living room windows.
BUT ... I'm also considering possibly going in a whole other direction. I have a giant wall unit holding everything from books and CDs/DVDs/VHS tapes to my extensive audio system and my ancient "portable" television. I'm in the process of planning out "pipe shelving" that will run along the perimeter of the ceiling of my foyer that should hold my entire library.
But instead of buying a set of cabinets to house my audio/visual equipment, I'm now considering custom-building a massive "fireplace" along that wall with a deep mantle and surround set atop a high hearth (18 inches) -- finished in Z-Brick -- with storage beneath. I'd use the long, deep mantle to hold my stereo components, and I'd set my new flat-screen TV (55 inches) inside or in front of the firewell. That concealed firewell will be perfect for hiding the tangle of wires.
JEM, I'm considering installing one of those Edwardian-era cast iron fireplaces. There's a place out on Long Island that sells reclaimed models, and another place in North Carolina, but unfortunately the bulk of them are overseas, in Britain.
However, nothing is outside the realm of possibility. You can certainly buy one and have it shipped (it'll be beastly expensive -- almost as much as the unit itself).
OR you can just buy or have a wooden fireplace surround made for your space. There are thousands of ideas out there.
Here's what I'm considering for my space: http://www.clarketooling.co.uk/tools/Gloucester_Cast_Iron_FireplaceL.jpg
I was happy with the AC units from Knossos (http://www.furniturebyknossos.com/). Talk to Al
Thanks jelj I will keep that in mind. Do you know if the people in your building were happy with the quality of the work itself? If so do you know who they used? Do you have any sense of how much one unit would cost? Appreciate the feedback.
Just be careful with a/c's that vent from the top. You have to include a rectangular sleeve around the a/c's vent so that all the air goes out the top of the cover. Otherwise, a lot of the air stays under the top of the new cover, causing a moisture buildup. A number of people in my building did custom air conditioner covers to blend in with a custom storage unit around the windows. They had a lot of problems with mold/mildew.
Can anyone recommend someone to make custom wood air conditioner covers? Any thoughts on how much this would cost?
I'm looking for someone who can make custom wood air conditioner covers. I just moved into a unit and the air condition coveres are over 40 years old and falling apart, they are so old that they no longer sell them.
Has anyone done this recently and have someone they can recommend? Can anyone give me an estimate of the cost per unit?