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I have a 30" Bosch gas cooktop. Should the hood be the same size,30"? Or should it be 36" to function properly?
How's the new place?
LoftyDreams, this is exactly the same situation I'm facing. Could you share your thoughts on what kind of range hood you are considering? I can't vent outside, don't want to have exhaust filling up inside a cabinet, need and want something more functional than a microwave with a couple of weak fans. An under-cabinet recirculating unit is, I think, what I want. Something around 600 cfm. From my own research, all the manufacturers say that the hood should be at least the same size as the range. Whether or not it should be larger is, I think, a function of how well the particular unit is designed (vis a vis cfm, slope of inside hood, etc.) as well as aesthetic concerns. I think I've already rejected downdraft models because my range can't be moved away from the wall without becoming awkward. Have you already come across a vendor that you like?
I like a self venting Meile hood. I dont remember any architect that I work with picking out any other brand
You know me. I am all about the look, so 36" over 30" looks funny to me. I had a Zephyr twice over 2 diff.
If you can't vent outside, there's absolutely no value in having a range hood (unless you like the look). Just don't get one. Recirculating hoods do nothing at all, except make a lot of noise.
Downdraft (even vented to the outside) is even worse -- it sucks heat away that's supposed to cook your food.
I'm not in yet - moving Wednesday. The 30" that was there is a Faber, the other option is the matching Bosch. We will vent outside - you're right, the self-circulating just collect the grease and spray it on the ceiling. nyc10023, you live so near to Fairway and don't cook much? Or does the 30" actually work perfectly well? Even if you fry or burn something?
Lofty, how are you planning on getting the venting to outside done? It can be a bit tricky, I believe.
I agree with alanhart...if you can't vent to outside, don't bother. In our leased apartment last year we had a recirculating hood and even though it was an excellent brand, all you get is a noisemaker. and in another home we had a downdraft model which also proved useless.
bjw2103...we put in a 48" wolf hood in the new apartment and venting it to the outside became a major project. they had initially thought to go thru the wall of the adjoining maid's room but there proved building piping there. so they had to build duct work around the perimeter of the room to go out another wall. they framed it all in and it looks sort of interesting now but became quite an expense. the hood works incredibly well even when i use the grill element on the stove and sucks out absolutely everything. noisy monster though.
i thought a hood (or downdraft) was a code requirement? am I wrong? I would love to be wrong.
When we bought the wolf stove with the grill element, we were told the hood was a code requirement and that it had to be vented outside as well as the size of the hole that had to be cut in the building. But our understanding was that it was only a requirement because we had the grill element. maybe others have more info?
For a 30" range, a 30" vented hood is just fine. 36" will look strange. If you cannot vent to the outside, I disagree with alanhart, above. A recirculating hood can be useful. It dissipates the heat generated (with can be substantial if you have the over and/or multiple burners going at once.). If you open a window in the kitchen, these types of fans are more effective. The best over-the-range microwave is Viking's convection model. I like it more than the Dacor; if interested post it and I'll explain why.
Viking micro? Do tell, because I find in general a Dacor micro is a sign of a thoughtful kitchen reno.
But I want to learn and grow.
On a 30" range there is no hood requirement. There may be a venting requirement (like the over-the-range ["OTR"] recirculating type), but no technical hood.
Dacor and Viking have very similar OTR convection microwaves. They are the only convection microwaves that can go OTR I believe. At least they are the only ones with a fan of the power that they have -- a measurement I cannot recall. They look very similar. The difference involves the fan. Both have an automatic thermostat that cannot be disabled or re-set and which turns the fan on to disperse heat when the temperature beneath the unit gets high enough to trip the thermostat. Dacor's is set significantly lower than the trip temperature of the Viking. Something like 90 degrees. Here's the issue: if you leave on vacation in August and don't leave your a/c on and the apartment gets over 90 degrees, the Dacor's fan will run and run and run. It will also click on and stay on more often during usage of the range and at times there really won't be enough heat to warrant the noise of the fan. With today's open kitchens, the noise of the fans is quite annoying; you'll want to minimize use of the fans as a result. Because of the higher trip point, I think the Viking is superior. It is the only one I've used, but it performs very well.
As a general matter, the OTR microwave should be placed as high above the range as is possible for you to still use it easily. This will prevent it from automatically clicking the fan on everytime you use 2 burners and leave you with more control over when to use the venting function. I set the height of the microwave so that the turntable inside is at my eye-level. This makes it accessible for seeing what is going on in there and also for cleaning. I'm only 5'8", but the eye-level height of the mike is provides a gracious amount of space over the range. If at all possible, avoid setting the height so that the minimum recommended distance is just barely met; the minimum distance makes it tough to handle large stock pots and just adds to the problem of heat build up--these high-octane burners throw some serious heat when 3-4 are turned on at once or when the oven is on plus a burner or two.
Ah, if you can vent to the outside, 30" should be sufficient. I cook a lot, but don't generate tremendous amounts of heat or grease. I don't notice a tremendous amount of difference (with my cooking style/habits) between a self-vented, vented to the outside via long duct, or vented outside directly with a high-powered hood.
If I had to deep-fry something, I have a small deep fryer for that purpose.
I like people who like deep-frying.
Good to hear Alan. I'll have a nice thick and juicy corn dog waiting for you!
same, Zephyr Typhoon great.
I had 2 Zephyr Venezia fans - one over a 30" Bosch, the other over a 30" Miele cooktop. Looked good.
KW, great micro explanation. I heart you.
Just curious. How often is it that a coop would let you make a vent in the outside wall of the building? I have a windowed kitchen and it was one of the first things mentioned in the alteration agreement.. that no venting would be allowed. Post war, UES.
gobri30: the answer is virtually never. It is the outlier coop that is going to let you poke holes in the exterior of its building. Can you imagine the potential problems? I'd say it is more likely in a very small coop. I know one on Bleeker with about 20 units -- most valued in the $2-4 million range-- in which things are fairly informal so long as you have the means to fix any issues that arise. Put an a/c compressor in the alley? No problem. Vent stoves? No problem. Buy all units on your floor and reconfigure the elevator landing public space on the floor? No problem. Wanna live in a building where anything goes? Then this works for you. Most coop boards take a much more restrictive approach though.
kyle: Gotcha. Odd correlation. If everyone is rich [expensive apartment], either anything could go or nothing could go. If a mix, most likely the 'have nots' overrule the 'haves' when they want to spend money on a structural renovation and would pick up the extra [substantial] costs.
As it is, I'm sure I will have to work to figure out the proper approach to get some speakers on the terrace. There is power and water so we may be able to reuse the conduit/hole in the wall in some fashion. I'm sure I won't be allowed to 'hang' anything on the bricks though without a great tip to the super every year.
perhaps the fact that our General Contractor is the building super and our architect has done 5 other major renovations in the building helped us get permission to vent the hood to the outside? i don't know because we really didn't realize permission was difficult to obtain and this seemed far easier to obtain than the permission to enlarge one of the bathrooms. they (board and building architect) did limit the size of the hole we could make and they did specify where the hole could be made. The bulding is a coop on sutton place with 88 units.
In our first loft---- a long time ago----we had no hood, but we did have a skylight that vented. The wall above the stove got very greasy. Now we do have a hood, not vented, just kinda hanging there and it makes a big difference. It is noisy but not THAT bad and the smoke and other undesirables go into filters which we can remove and wash. Re: the size of the hood; I know someone who just installed a big vented hood over his giant viking (another story). The hood, while noisy, vents well, but he and I bump our heads on it.
Gorbri30 - Do you have outdoor lights currently mounted on a terrace wall? Possibly your contractor could wire the speakers using the same routing as the lights. I guess this would require that you have a space between the roof and your ceiling, and would probably also require making holes in the ceiling to run all the wires.
I just checked my terrace and see that a lot of wires were brought out from the room with all the stereo stuff, and then around under the cornice to the terrace where we have the speakers.
Our apartment had a small opening in the wall from the pre-existing kitchen. When we renovated we would have preferred to have the hood vent up but knew that piercing the roof membrane would be an issue, so chose to just enlarge the opening. Required a little extra ducting, but works fine.
ph - Thanks. Will probably wire through teh lighting conduits assuming we can get separation to suit code and non influenced audio paths. Its a setback terrace with a couple of floors above so we're not talking about a roof we can punch up to.
Didn't even breach the subject of venting after reading that clause in the alteration agreements as I assumed it wasn't worth it. A shame considering it's a windowed kitchen and has the external wall 1 'unit' of cabinets away from the range. I hope recirculating does the trick with TLC to replace filters every year. I'll just have to stay away from heavy deep frying (for more than one reason..). Good bye deep fryer!