That’s right! Katz’s Deli is open for takeout! (Getty Images)
Brimming with sumptuous food, fascinating history, and an ever-evolving image, the Lower East Side is one of New York City’s most dynamic neighborhoods. As part of NYC’s Open Streets program — a city-wide initiative to encourage social distancing — several of the LES’ streets are now car-free from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. The policy harkens back to the area’s roots, when the neighborhood was a shopping epicenter, teeming with pushcart vendors and perusing pedestrians. Now, these blocked-off streets provide the perfect opportunity to explore the area. You can learn the secret histories of the many tenement buildings and sample food and drink from long-established restaurants and newcomers alike (all with takeout options!).
So, whether you’re scouting out a new neighborhood to move to, or are delving into all of the city’s secrets, NYC Open Streets provides a great opportunity to see the Lower East Side through a unique lens. The following ideas will help you craft your very own walking tour!
NYC Open Streets: Visit the Forgotten Buildings of the Lower East Side
The Lenin statue on its former perch, 250 E. Houston St., once known as The Red Square Building. (Getty Images)
The LES’ rich history is often reflected in brick and mortar — if you know where to look.
“The Tenement Museum celebrates the ‘ordinary’ in that every building has stories that are important to understanding New York history, Lower East Side history, and American history,” explains Kat Lloyd, Director of Programs at the Tenement Museum. Often, these unassuming buildings are keys to the past, giving historians insight into housing laws, customs, and life throughout the years.
“The Lower East Side has a long history of being a mixed-use neighborhood where you have apartments above businesses,” Lloyd continues, meaning that a hipster boutique or art gallery is just the latest iteration of countless reincarnations. Here are some of the area’s most intriguing buildings and what we know about them.
Hevra Kadisha Anshe Sokotchtov
121 Ludlow Street
Located between Delancey and Rivington, 121 Ludlow Street is a three-story, cream-colored brick building you’ve probably walked by dozens of times. Stop and take a look at the Hebrew lettering above the awning, a relic from the building’s past life as the Hevra Kadisha Anshe Sokotchtov from 1910-1956. “It was essentially a mutual aid society,” says Lloyd. Members would pay dues, and then when a family member passed away, “the society would sponsor the funds needed for a proper Jewish burial.” She explains that the organization played an essential role in the Jewish community beyond the burial aspect, functioning as a de facto social club and prayer space. Currently, 121 Ludlow operates as a mixed-use space, housing restaurant Izakaya Juraku on the ground floor, which is still open for takeout if you feel famished during your visit to the LES.
Ludlow House
139 Ludlow Street
Pass by 139 Ludlow Street, and you’ll see Ludlow House, a branch of Soho House, the exclusive, members-only club for creatives. Although nobody gets into this spot sans invitation, you can still soak up its grandeur from the outside. Douglas Elliman Real Estate Agent and Lower East Side expert Ariel Tirosh describes the building: “Neo-Gothic facade, yellow cream terracotta, very ornate. It used to be an old funeral home back in the day. An interesting twist!”
So is the building haunted? The jury’s still out, but we do know that the H. Nieberg Funeral Home did indeed operate in this very building and was responsible for burials, including that of infamous gangster Morris Grossman. Go ahead, Google!
97 Orchard St. is one of the Tenement Museum’s two historical buildings. (Liz Clayman/Tenement Museum)
The Tenement Museum
97 Orchard Street & 103 Orchard Street
Located just outside the Open Streets zone, 97 Orchard is one of the two buildings owned by the Tenement Museum, which has restored seven apartments and a saloon to showcase the fascinating stories of immigrants and migrants throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. (Please note: due to COVID-19, the museum and tours are currently closed, but you can keep an eye on their virtual offerings.)
This five-story, red brick structure built in 1863 tells a story of how the tenements evolved throughout the years. “The building changed mostly because of housing laws that required things like running water, or interior windows, or gaslight — features, which over the late 19th and early 20th century, were being defined as people’s rights in their housing,” explains Kat Lloyd.
Located right next door is 103 Orchard, the other building owned by the Tenement Museum. “103 Orchard Street is a perfect example of how, at face value, a building might not tell you the whole story,” Lloyd says. Initially built in 1888, the structure started as three separate buildings. It wasn’t until 1913 that the landlord did what we’d now refer to as a “gut renovation,” revamping the interiors to create one building, filled with fewer, larger apartments.
A vintage photo of 130 Orchard Street. (From a StreetEasy Listing).
The Beckenstein
130 Orchard Street
The Beckenstein, located at 130 Orchard, retains the arresting facade of the garment company that occupied the building from the 1920s until the early 2000s. The signage advertises “Woolens, silks, and draperies” across red brick, harkening back to a bygone era. Ariel Tirosh describes the building as “one of the great landmarks” of the neighborhood. “Right now, it’s a rental building with lofty spaces — it’s lovely. From the exterior, you see the old fire escapes, the old yellow signs, and the art gallery on the first floor.” The Beckenstein is one of the neighborhood’s many buildings that seamlessly retains its retro aesthetic while growing into thoroughly modern usage.
The NYC Lenin Statue (from Russia!)
178 Norfolk Street
Located just one block east of the NYC Open Streets zone, on the roof of 178 Norfolk Street, sits a rather unusual sight: an imposing statue of communist leader Vladimir Lenin. This 18-foot copper monument, featuring Lenin raising a hand above the city, was commissioned back in the USSR and allegedly found in the trash by developers Michael Rosen and Michael Shaoul in Moscow. They decided to rescue the statue and place it on top of their East Village building 250 Houston Street (formerly known as Red Square), where it reigned from 1994 to 2017 until it found its current home in the neighboring Lower East Side.
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Where to Grab Grub, Treats, and Drinks During Your LES Visit
Economy Candy features a vast selection of sugary favorites. A pre-COVID-19 photo.
Even though restaurant seating is not happening right now, you can still sample the neighborhood’s countless offerings, from ice cream sandwiches to classic NYC bagels (accompanied by a heaping portion of lox, of course). All of the featured shops below are currently open for food, snacks, or libations — sometimes a combination of all three.
Economy Candy
108 Rivington Street
Filled with floor-to-ceiling candy — including modern favorites and sweet treats from generations past — Economy Candy is a Lower East Side icon and a staple for sugar fiends throughout the city. The store started in the 1930s as a hat and shoe repair shop with a pushcart selling candy out front, and ultimately transitioned to Economy Candy in 1937 when the owners realized their candy and snacks were more lucrative than the repair business. Right now, they’re offering curbside pickup.
“What’s been amazing to see is the “pay it forward” nature of orders that have been coming in,” explains Skye Greenfield Cohen, Co-owner of Economy Candy. “Customers are sending CandyCare Packs to their neighbors. It’s incredibly touching and heartwarming to see communities support each other while supporting us.” And now on Saturday and Sundays (weather permitting), the shop will have Economy Candy To Go, a mini outdoor version of the store — a throwback to their pushcart roots — stocked with select treats.
Melt Bakery
132 Orchard Street
Conceived 10 years ago at the Hester Street Fair, Melt Bakery has been serving the Lower East Side delectable — and innovative — ice cream sandwiches ever since. First-timers will undoubtedly love the Classic, made with chocolate chip walnut cookies and vanilla ice cream. “It’s the “cheese slice” of the ice cream sandwich world!” explains Julian Plyter, Melt Bakery’s Founder and Pastry Chef. He also recommends Morticia for chocoholics, made with crackling chocolate cookies that envelope malted, chocolate rum ice cream.
Russ & Daughters’ century-old location is open for pre-orders. A pre-COVID-19 photo. (Getty Images)
Russ & Daughters
179 E. Houston Street
Russ & Daughters is one of the neighborhood’s longest-running businesses, known for its world-class smoked fish and baked goods. Immigrant Joel Russ started selling herring out of a barrel in 1907, then upgraded to a pushcart business, and ultimately opened a storefront in 1914. Russ relied on his three daughters to run the store, and in 1935, he changed the shop’s name to Russ & Daughters — becoming the first business in the U.S. to have “& Daughters” in the name, instead of the typical “& Sons.” Feminism and pickled herring? A winning combination. You need to schedule your pick up in advance on Monday-Friday only. FYI, slots fill up quickly.
Izakaya Juraku
121 Ludlow Street
Opened in 2018, this relative newcomer to the LES specializes in Japanese comfort food and craft beers. “We are an Izakaya (Japanese gastropub), and the name Juraku essentially means to gather, so the idea with the name was to say ‘let’s gather at the pub,’” says Kiyo Darner, General Manager. Izakaya Juraku aims to serve food and drink that pair ideally in a warm, friendly environment, he goes on to explain. Darner recommends their Kara-Age (fried chicken), Garlic Sauteed Edamame, or — for those who want something exciting and certainly unusual — Boozy Tomato Ramen, a noodle soup with a generous pour of soju.
In addition to their extensive Japanese beer selections, this cool spot also has brought back “crowd favorites” Hokkaido Melon beer slushie and their Lychee Sake Slushitinie for the summer. Ask yourself: Who wouldn’t want to stroll around the neighborhood, enjoying sumptuous treats and a perfectly paired libation?
Katz’s Delicatessen
205 E. Houston Street
People come to the Lower East Side from far and wide for Katz’s, famed for quality deli sandwiches. Although Jewish, kosher-style delicatessens used to be found across the city, Katz’s is now one of the only remaining games in town, making it that much more in-demand. They’re still open for pickup so that you can indulge in one of their Pastrami or Corned Beef Sandwiches on rye. Although this summer might be sweltering, remember it’s never too hot for a Matzo Ball Soup on the side. Beyond their heart-stopping foodstuffs, Katz’s is iconic for their low-slung building and collection of neon and old-timey signs, which boast “known as the best since 1888” — something most establishments certainly can’t claim.
Patacon Pisao
139 Essex Street
Known for their signature Patacon — crispy, smashed plantain sandwiches — Patacon Pisao started in the Washington Heights neighborhood, serving their delectable Venezualan bites to late-night revelers. “It has always been a dream of mine to open a restaurant on the Lower East Side,” says Jonathan Hernandez, Co-Founder & V.P. Operations. “The Lower East Side is a place where history meets modern design, filled with vibrant people of all backgrounds. I fell in love with it when I was 16 years old when I would escape my neighborhood in Queens and hop on the train to explore Manhattan.” This dream became a reality in 2014, when they opened their LES location, bringing their tasty, self-proclaimed “vegetarian and meatatarian friendly” offerings downtown. First-timers should also try their cachapas, sweet, and savory corn crepes.
Here, you can grab a souvlaki pita to go!
Souvlaki GR
116 Stanton Street
This charming restaurant transports patrons to Mykonos, with its arresting blue-and-white seaside color scheme and range of traditional Greek dishes. “Souvlaki GR started as a food truck back in 2011, and instantly became a favorite,” explains Daniel Tapia, Operations Manager. With the success of their food truck, they were able to expand to their first storefront, located on Stanton Street. Tapia recommends lamb chops, moussaka, pastitsio, and their signature souvlaki pitas for customers stopping by.
Verlaine
110 Rivington Street
New rules during COVID-19 have eased New York’s previously strict alcohol regulations, meaning you can now order libations to-go and for delivery. Verlaine, known for their tasty lychee martinis, opened in the Lower East Side right after 9/11 and have jumped on this trend by bottling their cocktails, which are on sale alongside a menu of Southeast Asian-inspired tapas. “Our lychee martinis are selling like crazy,” says Gary Weingarten, Verlaine co-owner. For those who prefer a kick, they’ve also bottled their spicy lychee jalapeno margarita.
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