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Leveling floors

Started by MTH
5 days ago
Posts: 579
Member since: Apr 2012
Discussion about
Am in the planning stage of a reno. One of the GC bidders noticed the floors weren't level and offered to add leveling to the scope. Went with this idea to the GC who won the bid and it was clear he didn't even want to discuss it. He didn't mention cost so I guess it's just a big headache? Or very time consuming? From what I read the process of taking up floorboards and shimming to make a floor look level isn't that uncommon in pre-war coops.
Response by Aaron2
4 days ago
Posts: 1702
Member since: Mar 2012

It can be done, but done right you would also have to reset baseboards and door trims, window trims that extend to the ground (as many do in pre-wars), as well as potentially trim the bottom of doors, etc. It is fussy and time consuming work (ask me how I know). And, if the floor and adjoining wall had shifted equally, what do you do when the window sill is no longer aligned with the floor, a much more noticeable situation. If both window sill and floor have shifted, at least they are in sync with each other, which visually is cleaner than the mismatch. If you walk around the apartment and don't really notice that things are off, why bother? Personally, when I drop my marble collection, I like that they all roll to one collection point.

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Response by 300_mercer
4 days ago
Posts: 10574
Member since: Feb 2007

Turning a small Toyota into a Rolls Royce is costly hobby.

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Response by MTH
4 days ago
Posts: 579
Member since: Apr 2012

OK - good point about the windows - but that's just a question of measuring them.

It's not so dramatic it's the first thing you notice when you walk through the door - it doesn't look like The Penguin's lair. So if it were too expensive I wouldn't do it. But the GC didn't even want to cost it.

The GC that proposed leveling wanted to replace the wood floors with engineered wood. It occurred to my devious mind that there must be a secondary market for reclaimed wood and that his intention may have been to sell the solid hardwood planks and pocket the proceeds.

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Response by MTH
3 days ago
Posts: 579
Member since: Apr 2012

This isn't even a Toyota. Maybe it's trying to make a Vespa into a Ducatti.

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Response by Aaron2
3 days ago
Posts: 1702
Member since: Mar 2012

I can't imagine that the labor to pull up the floor in a way that substantially preserves its value would really be less than the resale value, but maybe there's a lot of it, it's really great wood, and easily removable. But if it's so great, why not just refinish it and keep it yourself? Were I a more cynical person, I'd suggest that the GC is looking to offload a bunch of wood he had leftover from another job (so already paid for), and will sell it to you 'at a big discount'. But I'm not that person, so I'm sure he has only your best interests at heart and just doesn't want to do a traditional floor sand and refinish job.

On the leveling question, remember that you're looking at an empty space, and once it's fully fitted out and furnished, most of the 'errors' will not be noticed by people. For the nit-pickers you can always explain it away as 'pre-war character'.

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Response by 300_mercer
3 days ago
Posts: 10574
Member since: Feb 2007

Ha.

This isn't even a Toyota. Maybe it's trying to make a Vespa into a Ducatti.

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I don't think contractor will get any more for selling wood from the old floor unless you have some 10-12 inch wide fancy floor boards which is unlikely.

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Response by 30yrs_RE_20_in_REO
2 days ago
Posts: 9879
Member since: Mar 2009

It's more important that it be flat than level. Flooring contractors often include a clause that "the floor shall be flat Within an X foot radius."

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Response by Krolik
2 days ago
Posts: 1371
Member since: Oct 2020

I am not sure if relevant for a pre-war coop, but some floors require asbestos abatement if lifted.

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Response by MTH
2 days ago
Posts: 579
Member since: Apr 2012

@Krolik - excellent point. Making it more expensive I guess.

@30yrs - The are except for a ~3'x1' hump along the neighbor's wall. I'm hoping that can be fixed.

@Aaron2 - Yes, that was the plan all along and is part of the scope - sanding and refinishing. You're right it's probably trying too hard to have fun

Also getting pushback on uncovering and restoring wood floors in the kitchen so there's only 1 form of flooring througout. A friend did this in a distinguished 1905 unit in a very strict coop with stunning results.

The architect was clear: yes, we do this all the time. The GC is telling me not to becuase of the risk of leaks. But there are leak detectors on the market. You get a notification on your phone.

It would be fussy operation, no doubt. Pulling up plasticky tiles that might be glued down on plywood, pulling up the old boards, waterproofing (mesh or some kind of liquid based product) + sound insulation, then either replacing restored boards or finding new ones to match those in the rest of the place. Even a thin layer of wood laminate.

What is the liklihood of a leak? vs simpler, more coherent flooring throughout.

If I go with tile in the kitchen, it will only be for resale value. I imagine most buyers - immigrants from suburbia - prefer tile.

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Response by stache
1 day ago
Posts: 1300
Member since: Jun 2017

Seems like you're getting a lot of 'no' from this contractor. Hardwood is always superior.

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Response by MTH
1 day ago
Posts: 579
Member since: Apr 2012

Maybe I'm wrong: does either tile or wood positively affect resale value? Or one more than the other?

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Response by 911turbo
1 day ago
Posts: 291
Member since: Oct 2011

My feeling is that most people prefer wood floors except in kitchen and bathrooms when tile is ok. Tile is still better than carpet, which I detest.

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Response by Aaron2
1 day ago
Posts: 1702
Member since: Mar 2012

I think people might be put off by a wood floor kitchen after their initial 'wow' -- they get to thinking about how much maintenance it is. I'm personally not a fan of wood floors in the kitchen -- if you're a regular cook, the wear at the sink and stove will be noticable, due to the increased foot shuffling and spills (though modern poly finishes are much better than they used to be) - inevitably, there will be enough water on the floor at some point to risk real warping. In the world of tile, large size floor tiles are readily available, so fewer grout lines to look grubby. You might also consider stone tiles - bluestone, etc., 1/2" thick, honed to whatever level of shine you want, though they will need to be sealed to minimize staining. I don't worry about resale value, as tastes will have changed by the time I sell, so no matter what's there, the new owner will want something else.

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Response by MTH
about 1 hour ago
Posts: 579
Member since: Apr 2012

@911 Hh - with you on carpet. Who puts it down anymore?

@This is what my GC is saying. Bluestone looks nice but maybe installation is pricey. There are so many nice 'you could fool me' porcelain options with cement, stone, terrazzo effects so may just go with that. It has come a long way. The only thing is I don't think it'll ever acquire a patina, unlike real stone.

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