Hello, I'm trying to get an idea of how much it would cost from start to finish (without the machine cost). I've searched and researched, but haven't been able to find anything, even within much of a range, that is very current or substantial. I'd like to put a smallish W/D combo unit in what is now a linen closet that is directly adjacent to the bathroom (they share a side wall). The closest... [more]
Hello,
I'm trying to get an idea of how much it would cost from start to finish (without the machine cost). I've searched and researched, but haven't been able to find anything, even within much of a range, that is very current or substantial.
I'd like to put a smallish W/D combo unit in what is now a linen closet that is directly adjacent to the bathroom (they share a side wall). The closest fixture to that wall is the sink, which is right against the wall too (on the other side). It's a pre-war co-op on the UES and the building allows washer-dryers in the units. The apartment is a 1BR and is on the second floor. This will be just one element of a larger reno process (bathroom, kitchen and all closets are being redone, among other things). I don't think I can go vented because the now-linen closet is not next to any exterior walls (unless someone has a creative idea...?). I would like to go 220v, since I've heard the drying part works better with 220v. And finally, does anyone have any good recommendations/experiences with a specific plumber/contractor who did this for them?
Thanks! :)
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Response by jelj13
almost 10 years ago
Posts: 821
Member since: Sep 2011
I would check with your board about this first. I had an upstairs neighbor who did the exact thing you described. The installation wound up shutting off the cold water to my bathroom. Hot water came from both the hot and cold faucets and I actually had hot water in my toilet. When the washer was used, I also had soapy water it backed up into my tub, shower, and toilet. It took over a week to find the source of the problem and resolve it.
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Response by UE98
almost 10 years ago
Posts: 100
Member since: Jan 2013
The co-op board allows it, and plans must be approved by building architect, and must be done by licensed and insured technicians (ie, plumber). This is how I will proceed.
Really, this is more about the cost from start to finish.
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Response by Admin2009
almost 10 years ago
Posts: 380
Member since: Mar 2014
Ask your Board for the most recent installations , and see if those tenants will share their plans and costs
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Response by uptown_joe
almost 10 years ago
Posts: 293
Member since: Dec 2011
Here's your basic outline, talk to your contractor for specifics on the costs, but be sure all these are considered:
- plumber maybe $2-3K added to the rest of the job, assuming it can be done in conjunction with the bathroom reno adjacent. Has to extend water supply lines, which sounds easy, but also extend the drain and possibly increase its diameter. Permitting and inspection costs could increase this.
- electrician allow $2K, maybe a little less, depends a bit on distance to your electrical panel and its current condition
- another $1K+ for patching and painting walls cut open to run the new electrical circuits back to the panel - increases with on distance and decreases when combined, and properly sequenced, with other things you already planned to do
- maybe $1K to add a leak pan, leak detector with water shutoff valve -- might be building-required, might be just optional-but-really-smart
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Response by UE98
almost 10 years ago
Posts: 100
Member since: Jan 2013
Thanks for the good advice, Admin :)
So uptown_joe, it's looking like about a $7,000 job all told, on the high side. Does this ring true with others? Can anyone else weigh in?
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Response by nyc_sport
almost 10 years ago
Posts: 809
Member since: Jan 2009
Actually, I think that ADDITIVE cost of doing this when you are already doing the renovations you say, which in the bathroom presumably means replacing all plumbing back to the risers, might be materially less than suggested since the walls will be open, dry wallers, plasterers, painters, plumbers, electricians already on site. The bigger cost issue being a prewar coop may be whether there is sufficient electric service, potential need to change the panel (fuses?), etc.
I would check with your board about this first. I had an upstairs neighbor who did the exact thing you described. The installation wound up shutting off the cold water to my bathroom. Hot water came from both the hot and cold faucets and I actually had hot water in my toilet. When the washer was used, I also had soapy water it backed up into my tub, shower, and toilet. It took over a week to find the source of the problem and resolve it.
The co-op board allows it, and plans must be approved by building architect, and must be done by licensed and insured technicians (ie, plumber). This is how I will proceed.
Really, this is more about the cost from start to finish.
Ask your Board for the most recent installations , and see if those tenants will share their plans and costs
Here's your basic outline, talk to your contractor for specifics on the costs, but be sure all these are considered:
- plumber maybe $2-3K added to the rest of the job, assuming it can be done in conjunction with the bathroom reno adjacent. Has to extend water supply lines, which sounds easy, but also extend the drain and possibly increase its diameter. Permitting and inspection costs could increase this.
- electrician allow $2K, maybe a little less, depends a bit on distance to your electrical panel and its current condition
- another $1K+ for patching and painting walls cut open to run the new electrical circuits back to the panel - increases with on distance and decreases when combined, and properly sequenced, with other things you already planned to do
- maybe $1K to add a leak pan, leak detector with water shutoff valve -- might be building-required, might be just optional-but-really-smart
Thanks for the good advice, Admin :)
So uptown_joe, it's looking like about a $7,000 job all told, on the high side. Does this ring true with others? Can anyone else weigh in?
Actually, I think that ADDITIVE cost of doing this when you are already doing the renovations you say, which in the bathroom presumably means replacing all plumbing back to the risers, might be materially less than suggested since the walls will be open, dry wallers, plasterers, painters, plumbers, electricians already on site. The bigger cost issue being a prewar coop may be whether there is sufficient electric service, potential need to change the panel (fuses?), etc.