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I am getting quotes of around 7K ... Does this seem right to you guys?
Closet is next to bathroom so there would be some drilling through walls ... Prewar building ... I don't want to inconvenience my neighbors with any problems ... meaning I would rather spend more and do this the right way ...
Part 2, saying these quotes are correct, is the improvement worth it? Would I make my money back?
Before you spend time getting quotes, I would make sure your plans pass muster with your coop or condo board. Many buildings have very strict prohibitions on "wet over dry" renovations and regardless, require all renovation plans to be approved. Assuming you will still have adequate closet space, the improvement would most likely be worth it but just make sure its an improvement that's feasible to execute.
The quote you got seems a bit on the high side. Does it include the W/D units as well? You may also need to upgrade to 220 v to handle the stackable W/D assuming you are looking for a ventless dryer. You will certainly need permission from the management and building architect and or board. You will also need to install a pan as well as a shut-off valve. I recently went through this exercise and although it was a bit painful it was worth the trouble. Best of luck.
sounds like you are getting primed for a reaming
Thanks for the comments everyone. I did get board approval -- don't want to be run out of town or anything. The price does not include the appliance, but it does include the pan and shut off valve. I'm not sure about the 220v upgrade. Good point on that. It seems then I should ask some more questions and continue to get quotes. Glad to know this would be worth the money.
Considering that this is not new construction, you'd have to open up the walls & then refinish them again plus, the biggest thing in my mind, create that new standpipe for draining the washer. 7k might not be so far off.
where will it vent? using ventless is not optimal.
Do you have to file with DOB? I did my washer/dryer addition as part of a larger renovation that had to be filed, so I can't remember if this piece had to be filed or not.
If the $7k includes the drain pan, the automatic shut-off valves, running the 220 line, and filing everything that needs to be filed, I think it's a good price.
Having your own laundry (especially in a building, like mine, that has no laundry facilities whatsoever) is priceless. I'd have spent $25k if I had to.
where will it vent? If it doesn't vent, it will take forever to dry. If 7k includes venting it outside, running water & gas to the closet, installing a 220v line, then it's not unreasonable. You should recoup your money at resale. You will certainly increase your buyer pool since there are many who won't look at apts without w/d.
You can come out of the closet but you cannot ever go back.
Make sure the W/D space is large enough in width to access the shut-off valves and sensor shut-off box. If you need to add power; probably washer – 120volt, 15amp, dryer – 208/240 volt – 30 amp you will need a dedicated circuit for each going back to your main panel. Does your panel have enough space to hold this? Have you factored in wiring this from the panel to the W/d, patching and painting? If Yes to all, 7K is a bargain.
Hey, everyone --thanks so much for the further comments. They're really educational. Actually this idea is starting to look not impossible but not advisable either. I was going to use ventless. Didn't realize this was a bad idea. And after speaking to the contractor a bit more it seems the size of the electrical panel and the amount of width/space available in the closet for the shut off valves are big concerns. As for the estimate, yep, the quote of 7K included all this, as well as a finish carpenter to come back in and put all the door molding back up around the closet after the washer went in. I think though I am really feeling this guy's concern over space and I may put this off until we rip out the kitchen in a few years. Hopefully the board will still be okay with the washer/dryer idea at that time. Want to thank everyone very much for helping me reason this out. Thanks!
Can anyone help me understand the shut off valve? Is this an automatic sensor that detects a leak and shuts off water supply, or simply a knob that you can turn to shut off water in case of a leak?
Which version is required by code?
mh330, the washer sits in a drain pan. There is a sensor in the drain pan. If water is detected, the sensor shuts off the water supply and sounds an alarm.
Most buildings will require a set up like this, although it's not required by code. Even if not required, it's a good idea. Do you want to be dealing with your or your neighbors' insurance companies when your washer floods the two apartments below?
mh330 you need to get a vented dryer, without this drying times are longer and you have to empty a container every load (i had a ventless miele in australia - it was good but prefer what i have now).
we bought the ge24 inch model for our NY apartment as was super small, works great though we have since bought another apartment in the building so will now be able to sell these and get the bigger electrolux models.
This is one made by Rheem - http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=203240105&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC-_-product-2-_-203240107-_-203240105-_-N#.UFyVtFGLnQ8
and this one seems popular too: http://www.watts.com/pages/learnAbout/intelliflow.asp
lad, thanks for the explanation.
So, not required by code, so therefore good guess that all the new developments going up with w/d hookups don't have a shutoff sensor set up. Right?
I don't know about code, but EVERYONE should shut off the water to the washing machine when it's not in use. Otherwise, those hoses are under all that water pressure & eventually will fail. That is bad enough in the basement of a home but in an apartment building . . . definitely not a good thing.
get better hoses
Yes, definitely use good quality stainless steel hoses and not the cheap rubber ones that come with the washer.
I was told awhile back by a home inspector that you should NOT regularly use shutoff valves. They are not designed for everyday use and will wear down much more quickly if you turn off the water every time you are not using the washing machine. I was advised to use them only for extended absences (and obviously emergency).
I also plan to install a washer / dryer in the closet.
Does anyone know what needed to be done for the permit required by the city?
Really you're supposed to shut off the water when not using? I have never heard of this before (seriously).
And yes, ventless is beyond useless. You end up needing to hang your stuff, which is a real pain.
Do your clothes still smell like vomit?
This is interesting, recent questions about turning a closet into a washer/dryer, or turning it into a half bath. All things considered, both seem preferable to a closet, though I wonder, if too little closet space, does the dryer hold clothes for a few extra days, maybe the bathroom ends up a bit cramped with linens?
By the way, you don't need to empty a container every load for a ventless dryer as stated above - the current ones drain the condensed water out into the same plumbing the washer uses.
How would one vent a dryer though? I am assuming most co-op's condos won't allow a hole to be made in an exterior wall.
So this is interesting. New construction condo has a washer dryer hookup, but from what i can tell only is wired for 120V. Its got a double outlet that looks fairly standard (curved ground hole in the bottom, two vertical holes up top, and the left hole looks like a sideways T), more like a bathroom outlet than anything (its got the little reset buttons that you would have in a standard bathroom outlet).
Any way this could be a 220V setup? Or would you need to rewire in order to get a dryer to actually work with this "washer dryer hookup"?
It's not 220V. The T-shape means it's a 20-amp outlet rather than a 15-amp.
Here's another question. The above mentioned new construction washer dryer hookup has the "bathroom style" double outlet. At the same height but over about 12 inches, is a faceplate (like the kind that covers a junction box) with no outlet, but bigger size (like it could fit 4 outlets). Could this be a 220V hookup that has the wiring run to it, but just doesn't have the outlet installed yet?
I assume you would need both a 220V and a 120V for a washer dryer hookup, since the washer needs 120 and dryer needs 220. Is this correct?
washer and dryer is a must for any unit anywhere
but 7k is a rip off. go get a fair contractor, total eletric + plumbing should be less than 2k
The venting hysteria above seems a bit over the top to me - you are far more likely to be unhappy with the performance of your super energy efficient washer.
A 220V plug is an enormous heavy duty thing that does not look like anything you would normally have in your home. For our pair, the washer plugs into the dryer so there is only one connection (220V). You still need the normal plug to power the automagic leak detector thing that the board will want.