Reno cost: gut renovation
Started by jifjif
over 16 years ago
Posts: 232
Member since: Sep 2007
Discussion about
For a small 1 bed room 500 sqf Could someone tell me the cost break down for gut reno? - Floors (needs to be leveled) - Kitchen (more like kitchenette with under sink fridge / gas top only / dish washer) - Bathroom (taking out the tub and shower / new tiles / floors) - Take out partial wall - Remove old wall paint and repaint - Molding trims - Straighten door frame (building sank a little and door way is a little tilted) - Custom wall to wall cabinet Help please. Also, if you know anyone please feel free to recommend.
my friend did this reno 4 years ago for $80K inclu labor and materials.. Bid it all at once -- and detail what you want.
55K in labor (includes floors,skim coat and paint, electrical, dry wall, etc.)-- and 25 in new tub, toilet, sink, cabinaets, kitchen appliances. Additional she paid $12K for an archt -- totally waste in her mind..)
Thanks MF thats very helpful. Would you happen to have any photos of the place? I am thinking of using an archt also.
- Floors (needs to be leveled) ... maybe $10-15 depending how bad what they find underneath is
- Kitchen (more like kitchenette with under sink fridge / gas top only / dish washer) ... maybe $6 since there is no cabinetry really.
- Bathroom (taking out the tub and shower / new tiles / floors) ... $20-45 +/- depending on finishes
- Take out partial wall ... $2
- Remove old wall paint and repaint ... skim coating about $10
- Molding trims ... replace all including bases, crowns, door casings, $6-10
- Straighten door frame (building sank a little and door way is a little tilted) ... $2500 unless there are complications
- Custom wall to wall cabinet ... $5-10 depending on design, materials, etc.
Add: Architect $10-15K including job oversight
Expeditor/permits/building fees, $6000
MY ESTIMATE: No less than $70,000.
Caveat: This does not include electrical work since that was not listed.
Factor in cost of living elsewhere for 6 months. If architect is selected prior to closing and begins work up of plans, then that can all be finalized in month after closing. Then bidding job to few contractors and evaluating bids while building engineer reviews plans and does back and forth with architect takes another 2-4 weeks. Expeditor files for permits is about 2 weeks. Construction for 12-16 weeks depending upon how steadily the contractor works and whether there are any major problems when they open up walls, etc. Total from closing: 5-6 months.
If buyer waits until closing to select an architect and to get going on plans, then add another 2 months.
We renovated a 2B/2Ba (without redoing wood floors, kitchen or using an architect) using high end materials , including new lighting, pocket door, 6 closet doors , plumbing back to the risers, baseboards, crown moulding,total repaint, granite windowsills and new hearth surround on WBF for $65K labor, $12K materials and 3.5 months start to finish. The choice of the right contractor for the project is essential. I looked at seven jobs by ProTone Painting and Contracting before signing and have had no issues in the past year that were not addressed in a prompt, professional manner. In any case,do not go with the low bidder, you will live to regret that choice for years to come. Another way to approach the project is by asking board members or neighbors for contractor recommendations.
I own a construction/soundproofing company and this is my $0.02
(1) With respect to the Architect "the Building" may impose one do to the nature of your work. You will not require one, if all else stays the same.
(2) Furthermore, we all love to think we're great designers. What you don't want is to give birth to a baby (APT) only a mother could love. It behooves you to spend a little money on a designer that can interpret your style in a tasteful manner that won't look outdated in 2 years
(3) It's too easy to go over-spend on that tile, appliance etc etc. Try to adhere to a budget that makes sense.
(4) I agree with 'raddoc' the choice of the right contractor is paramount to a successful project. In my experience, most are unqualified to produce anything more than basic commercial grade. You can pay an idiot $1.00 or $20k, he's still an idiot. My advice here, is use your gut only if you have good instincts. With a little probing and due-diligence you will separate the wheat from the chaff
I do not have her photos but the result is very nice given the original condition...
jifjif--
Do you already own the apartment? If you're still considering buying, I'd have a qualified building inspector thoroughly look into that 'sinking' problem you mention before going any further. That may reflect problematic building structure which would mean things could worsen over time. Just my $.02.
I am an architect and I am selling my gut-renovated 500 s.f. studio apartment and the scope you describe sounds very much like what I did when I renovated about 4-5 years ago.
I probably spent about 40-50k total on my renovation but I saved ALOT of money because I did a good amount of the finish work myself (I used to be a carpenter) in addition to designing it. When working with a contractor I would recommend buying the materials, fixtures, appliances, etc. yourself so there is no additional contractor mark-up.
Here is a link to my apartment (FSBO) with pictures:
http://sites.google.com/site/212ebwayg1302/
Theark1z: I don't make it a point to nickle and dime people. Everyone needs to make a profit when providing you a service. Even the dirty car dealer has a business to run.
If a client requests they procure all materials to avoid my mark up I would agree on the condition they arrange for all transportation to the work site. Furthermore, I would require they abide by my quantity of materials order. However, it really sets a sour tone for the project.
I find it very petty and thankfully no one has made such cheap requests.
I bought the tiles, stone and appliances directly and allowed no markup --- this is negotiated in the contract. Given the market -- you have some leverage... that is why I suggested that you be very specific.
manhattanfox: Everything in the end is negotiable. Your request is perfectly within reason.
The only thing a reasonable contractor would require is that you let them review the specifications of the appliances, tile etc. prior to purchase. The intent is to ensure that it conforms to the parameters of the project. eg. the fridge you want may conflict with your cabinet layout, or the tile that you want may require a change in layout. What if the stone mosaic you fell in love with has inherent problems would you still buy it?