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Renovation Project Manager

Started by loon
over 16 years ago
Posts: 5
Member since: May 2008
Discussion about
Has anyone used a 'project manager' type person for their renovations. Buying a place and need to do some significant work on it but will not have time to supervise the work closely (work, etc.).If so, what has been your experience? Would you recommend this person? TIA
Response by nycbuyer1
over 16 years ago
Posts: 108
Member since: May 2009

Graydon Design. They do design and renovation. Their website shows big projects but they also do more modest ones.

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Response by rooftop
over 16 years ago
Posts: 11
Member since: May 2008

Using a project manager in your case is a good idea. I am a registered architect who does design and project management. My partner and I have lots of experience with New York City buildings over the past 15 years. Let me know if you would like some information about what we do. My email is ljha@nyc.rr.com

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Response by ksdg520
over 16 years ago
Posts: 16
Member since: Jul 2009

I have just gone through a nightmare renovation where the contractor was trying to get away with doing shabby construction. This was my 4th renovation and I knew what I was doing so I fired him and managed the project myself. Through trial and error I found really great sub-contractors etc%u2026 I am an engineer by education and love design/architecture. I would not mind making a little extra income as well as helping make an apartment beautiful. If you are interested please e-mail me at ksdg520@yahoo.com. At the very least I could give you some free advice as I feel that someone should benefit from the nightmare I had to go through.

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Response by kylewest
over 16 years ago
Posts: 4455
Member since: Aug 2007

I recently did a major reno of a 1-bdrm. I used an architect whose fee was divided into (1) design & drawings phase; (2) bidding and bid review and permits; and (3) construction oversight. The money spent on the construction oversight was about 3% of the total construction cost and worth every penny. I have no idea if a wall is being built correctly, so even though I was on sight 2 times a day, I wasn't qualified to insure I was getting a quality job done correctly and to spec. (my drawings were excruciatingly detailed to avoid any debates as work proceeded). when conflicts arose between cabinet fabricators and GC and appliances didn't fit at first, it wasn't left to me to resolve. The architect worked to find the solutions--and as good as I am at design and as savvy as I am about interior renovation (I am not a neophyte), the architect proved invaluable. I would not undertake another major reno without an architect at my side.

So, my next bit of advice: choose an architect carefully.

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Response by Katie_eh
over 16 years ago
Posts: 34
Member since: Jan 2009

kyle, that's a strong reference. Are you willing to share the name of the architect?

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Response by kylewest
over 16 years ago
Posts: 4455
Member since: Aug 2007

Why not email me at kwest@nyc.rr.com

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Response by ksdg520
over 16 years ago
Posts: 16
Member since: Jul 2009

I would agree with Kyle that an architect is very important on the project. Unfortunately after interviewing over 20 architects I did not find any that would be competent to oversee construction. I did have an architect who was completely useless. Try asking an architect to calculate whether he will be able to calculate the electrical load to make sure the electrician distributed it properly between the two phases and if he/she says yes ask how. Ask what # wiring electrician should use for a 220V appliance, or whether you should have the plumber rough in ¾ or ½ inch plumbing pipes for your thermostatic shower valves?
I really hope that Kyle actually has a reference for you that can answer these questions.

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Response by kylewest
over 16 years ago
Posts: 4455
Member since: Aug 2007

Answer: 3/4" plumbing into the thermostatic valve and 1/2" coming out of it.

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Response by ksdg520
over 16 years ago
Posts: 16
Member since: Jul 2009

Sorry. Incorrect, it depends on the thermostatic valve. You can get either 3/4 or 1/2 inch. If you can get the 3/4" as you will get better water pressure but you have to plumber run 3/4" pipes from the riser and they will not do it by default and will run 1/2 inch.

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Response by kylewest
over 16 years ago
Posts: 4455
Member since: Aug 2007

ksdg: right. what you said. all i can tell you is 3/4" ROCKS the house when I shower now. Entire GV must experience a decrease in water pressure when I get wet in the morning. Was a great move to run the 3/4" pipes from risers, which in a gut reno is pretty easy to do and the building had no problem with it.

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