My contractor is glueing down the engineered hardwood floor throughout the apartment.. This is after he completed glueing the rubber soundproofing material. However, I noticed, after he layed down the wood planks, he would make these temporary wood tension columns and/or lay down heavy buckets on top of the wood planks to prevent the planks from warping upwards... I found this very strange. I am... [more]
My contractor is glueing down the engineered hardwood floor throughout the apartment.. This is after he completed glueing the rubber soundproofing material. However, I noticed, after he layed down the wood planks, he would make these temporary wood tension columns and/or lay down heavy buckets on top of the wood planks to prevent the planks from warping upwards... I found this very strange.
I am worried that if/when the glue hardens or cracks (in a couple of weeks-months) the planks will warp upwards again....
Contractor told me this is how it is always done... His explanation is, the temporary tension columns which he placed, and the heavy buckets force the floor planks down, giving the glue a chance to dry. Over the next couple of weeks to months, the wood planks absorb the natural moisture and temperature of the surrounding, and levels down... By then, the planks will no longer have a tendency to warp upwards, cuz the glue has given it a chance to establish a permanent position.
Your thoughts?
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Is the subfloor or concrete level? Most engineered floor manufacturers have maximum tolerance for irregularities... usually a couple 16th of an inch per several feet. If it's level than I wouldn't think heavy weights would be needed. The planks shouldn't need to be forced down.
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Response by superlun
almost 11 years ago
Posts: 79
Member since: Jul 2009
It is concrete floor, perfectly leveled, then a layer of glue, then a 1/4" layer of rubber soundproofing, then another layer of glue, then the engineered wood flooring.
Before anyone asks, the wood flooring manufacturer is: SOMERSET HARDWOOD FLOORING
(I did my research online before committing to this flooring, and the reviews are generally VERY GOOD)
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Response by jelj13
almost 11 years ago
Posts: 821
Member since: Sep 2011
This sounds strange. I put in a top quality engineered cherry wood floor in my daughter's apartment 14 years ago. It was installed over concrete. We've never had warping problems and did not have to put weights on the floor during the installation. It was Kahrs flooring.
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Response by fieldschester
almost 11 years ago
Posts: 3525
Member since: Jul 2013
What neighborhood is your building in?
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Response by Primer05
almost 11 years ago
Posts: 2103
Member since: Jul 2009
The only "warping" problems I have heard of is when the contractor installs the wood flooring without letting it acclimate in the apartment.
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Response by alanhart
almost 11 years ago
Posts: 12397
Member since: Feb 2007
I thought the entire point to engineered flooring is to avoid warping, and the attendant need for acclimation.
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Response by alanhart
almost 11 years ago
Posts: 12397
Member since: Feb 2007
Are you (OP) sure this flooring is supposed to be glued down?
Floating systems are designed as such because humidity fluctuations cause expansion. A required perimeter gap, hidden by baseboard, allows the wiggle room to prevent buckling. Without that ability, something's got to give when expansion comes along. Although winter heating season is not when it would be expected.
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Response by Primer05
almost 11 years ago
Posts: 2103
Member since: Jul 2009
Alan,
All wood has to acclimate. The wood should be nailed and glued unless you want a floating floor, most people do not really care for it
Some engineered wood manufacturers are ok with glue down only installs on concrete. They usually instruct to glue down directly on the concrete or glue down a membrane layer and then glue the wood on top of that (which is what the op did). You can't nail into concrete so another option is to screw down sheets of plywood first as a subfloor and then glue and nail the wood on top. Then you have to worry about raising the floor 3/4 inch and possibly shaving down door bottoms, etc. OP never mentioned if the wood is actually warping up. Maybe the contractor is just super cautious.
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Response by rasheed32
about 10 years ago
Posts: 3
Member since: Oct 2015
I think contractor is correct
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Response by rasheed32
about 10 years ago
Posts: 3
Member since: Oct 2015
What's the width of your engineered plank? if for 5" I think it will be very safe.Some wide plank engineered flooring like oak , walnut , acacia, teak are common even in 6-7" wide , paritularly in 4mm top , need to take care of excessive tight joint, as the possibilty of movement and bend is in much higher risk.
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Is the subfloor or concrete level? Most engineered floor manufacturers have maximum tolerance for irregularities... usually a couple 16th of an inch per several feet. If it's level than I wouldn't think heavy weights would be needed. The planks shouldn't need to be forced down.
It is concrete floor, perfectly leveled, then a layer of glue, then a 1/4" layer of rubber soundproofing, then another layer of glue, then the engineered wood flooring.
Before anyone asks, the wood flooring manufacturer is: SOMERSET HARDWOOD FLOORING
(I did my research online before committing to this flooring, and the reviews are generally VERY GOOD)
This sounds strange. I put in a top quality engineered cherry wood floor in my daughter's apartment 14 years ago. It was installed over concrete. We've never had warping problems and did not have to put weights on the floor during the installation. It was Kahrs flooring.
What neighborhood is your building in?
The only "warping" problems I have heard of is when the contractor installs the wood flooring without letting it acclimate in the apartment.
I thought the entire point to engineered flooring is to avoid warping, and the attendant need for acclimation.
Are you (OP) sure this flooring is supposed to be glued down?
Floating systems are designed as such because humidity fluctuations cause expansion. A required perimeter gap, hidden by baseboard, allows the wiggle room to prevent buckling. Without that ability, something's got to give when expansion comes along. Although winter heating season is not when it would be expected.
Alan,
All wood has to acclimate. The wood should be nailed and glued unless you want a floating floor, most people do not really care for it
Some engineered wood manufacturers are ok with glue down only installs on concrete. They usually instruct to glue down directly on the concrete or glue down a membrane layer and then glue the wood on top of that (which is what the op did). You can't nail into concrete so another option is to screw down sheets of plywood first as a subfloor and then glue and nail the wood on top. Then you have to worry about raising the floor 3/4 inch and possibly shaving down door bottoms, etc. OP never mentioned if the wood is actually warping up. Maybe the contractor is just super cautious.
I think contractor is correct
What's the width of your engineered plank? if for 5" I think it will be very safe.Some wide plank engineered flooring like oak , walnut , acacia, teak are common even in 6-7" wide , paritularly in 4mm top , need to take care of excessive tight joint, as the possibilty of movement and bend is in much higher risk.
Leontau
Owner of Yorking Hardwood
www.acacia-depot.com
I have seen glue work as well. If done right, should be ok.
I've had good experience with Galaxy Glue.